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Maxed out on the cst5. only way to make more power per my tuner is a 3.5inch exhaust system. But literally no one makes one

Any Update on the 3.5 for the speed6 really needing one lol

I ordered it with the holes pre drilled after I contacted them they said if I wasn’t happy with the fitment I could use a 17/64 to make it slightly bigger. So I’m not sure what they used

Fixed it! The corksport fuel injector holes were a hair too small. When installed the injector tips were being squeezed causing them all to leak at idle and after shutoff. I assume once the motor got hot and everything expanded they leaked bad. Anyways I drilled out the ports with a 17/64 bit...

Got a log of my issue. You can see how long I’m cranking by looking at rpm. To me it looks like a fuel pressure issue. Can anyone confirm?

No should I start one? I just saw this guys post and it’s exactly what’s happening to me. Wish I knew if he fixed it and how

Mine are disconnected and issue is still there. I just pressure tested my injectors with 80psi and it isn’t leaking air.

Same problem with corksport rail and manifold. Anyone fix this?

Iv been battling this weird issue where afr ramps up to mid to high 12s during wot then back down. I also have the infamous hesitation/backfire after shifting form 2nd to 3rd while at wot. When this occurs afrs ramp up to the 13s right after the hesitation. I’m on e25 and fully tuned my tuner...

So e25 helped a lot but I still would just spike to 5.95 and hold until I let off most pulls. On regular 91 it was every single pull. What my tuner did was turned off the knock sensor under 2k rpm and that made it only spike and hold to 3.85 on 91 and it happened way less often like 1 in 10...

So how the hell does it cause a misfire on only cylinder 3 I’m so confused. Shouldn’t it affect all cylinders?

I have the same exact issue. I have the fuel rail off and was gonna swap injectors around to test as a last result but just figured out I can blow through both ends of my relief valve. That means it’s toast right?

Does anyone know if there’s an na mazda6 performance sway bar that will fit the speed6. I know a lot of other parts swap over

I just installed the white line sway bar on the stiffest setting. Are there any options for front sway bars? Obviously softer than the rear but stiffer than stock?

Here’s an update. I replaced the primary 02 with an ntk 24354 (that’s all autozone had and said fit my car) the surging is fixed and no more crazy afr but now at wot I’m way lean like 13 afr car feels fine tho no kr. Is this the wrong sensor possibly?

Everything has been checked over. Does this look like a vvt issue? My tuner said the vvt is really low and to check it. Whatever that means

Remanufactured motor with 2k miles on it. Just started noticing this weird issue where it’s really jerky trying to take off and while cruising. my afrs are oscillating while this is happening. Any idea what this could be? car pulls hard and idles good just when I take off and cruise.

What did you’re kr look like with the crank sensor being wrong? I’m suspecting the same thing after a shop installed my remanufactured motor. I get 5.95 kr at wot consistently with no way to correct it. Along with crazy cruising kr like holding 5.95 at certain times

No the gas is 91 and I have a buddy with a speed he runs the same gas and has no issues. If I flat foot it right at 3k rpms it makes it to redline with no knock. But if I’m at 4-5k and flat foot it, it pegs 5.95 every time regardless of e85. The part throttle kr is also not like the normal...

Yes I have tried e85 and the weird thing is it seemed to help in fact some pulls I would get 0 kr and the car would feel amazing but 1 out of 4 pulls the car would peg the knock sensor and hold until i let off. I could do a pull 2 seconds later and get 0. Without e85 it’s 5.95 every time...