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You also need to swap the DISI head to the 2.5 shortblock.

So this is somewhat of a copy paste from my build thread, but I feel like it deserves its own thread for future reference. So what are the benefits of a 4 port boost control solenoid and why would you want one? With a standard 3-port setup, you increase boost by "interrupting" boost pressure...

Go ahead and post another one if you have it. Honestly won't help much though. The tune is clearly not even in the ballpark of being reasonable. Find a different tuner once you replace/rebuild your engine.

WTF lol, looks like a 12 year old filled in the timing table.

Thanks for the advice! I took it and ordered the ground control kit with 400lbs/in springs. I think you are onto something with the front end lift as well, but haven't had a chance to figure out what I'm going to do about it. I already get vaporlock from my aux rail getting too hot when I idle...

Thanks for the advice! I am pretty noob when it comes to suspension setup. I feel a huge amount of squat under acceleration, which is why I'm making the change. Also hoping that I can keep my oversteer characteristic with more negative camber in the rear with the increased spring rate...

Yeah lol, that's my favorite part

I guess I'm gonna keep updating this thread even though the build is somewhat complete. Always doing something and I like to share :) Get ready for a long ass post and a shit ton of pics. Edit: Also never posted this video from last october: Decided to add some rice, since the rear end of my...

I couldn't help myself and did another one at full power and managed to somewhat hook: 3.55 - andale927 (CS FMIC, E50, Port Injection, SP63 built motor, PTE 5558 Gen2, , 4" RAMFab intake, ST intake manifold, bunch of other crap, 36psi) 550whp/480wtq mustang dyno Edit: Added corresponding datalog

I got her professionally detailed/paint corrected, came out amazing:

Did a log on spring pressure making ~420whp. 4.21 - andale927 (CS FMIC, E50, Port Injection, SP63 built motor, PTE 5558 Gen2, , 4" RAMFab intake, ST intake manifold, bunch of other crap) 420whp/380wtq Will do another one on ~550whp once I get some real rubber on the car so I can hook 4th gear...

Look whose here haha! Yeah, if there is an open circuit then it will read the maximum sensor value.

Thanks! I strongly suspect that there is wheel spin, so let's reserve judgement for now. I have a Dyno scheduled this upcoming Saturday, so we'll see where it's really sitting! Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk

Yeah it seems like fueling is not an issue, I had a Walbro 450 ready to drop in, but I think I've about maxed the turbo and I am at the absolute limit of the PI, with a little bit of headroom on the DI for open loop fuel correction. As promised here's the final power revision: I did end up...

Sorry for the late update, everything had been working against me. Finished the install a few weeks ago, then was in Germany for a week for work... Kinda hard to take pics of the turbo, but here are a few pics of the engine bay after I did a little cleanup. Still not happy with the PI lines so...

+1 on checking out your MAF sensor, should not be maxing it out even with stock diameter intake. The bucking is probably from your KR making your car go way too rich. I kind of have the same issue with false knock and my part throttle logs look exactly like yours. I don't have any KR at WOT...

As far as the fuel line popping off goes, try using a PTFE line like this one: http://www.radiumauto.com/Submersible-PTFE-Fuel-Tubing-P672.aspx You need to heat the line to get it to go over the pump outlet and it creates a pretty strong seal.

Since I have no real progress to share, here are some pics: Picked up a Ramfab 4" Intake: Finally got the MV-R in the mail yesterday, feels like a pretty high quality piece: Put the 17.40 PSI spring set in it, hopefully won't need to go any higher. And finally picked up the ceramic coated...

Now that the ambient temps are dropping there is a pretty big difference in how much boost that my setup can maintain at higher RPM. The only difference in variables between these two runs is outside temperature (other than recently added WOT box and increased rev limiter): Just thought it...

Also even though you are having the issue on only 1 of the coil packs it wouldn't hurt to make sure the coilpack harness ground wire is okay.