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Thankfully Autocross doesn't require a cage. Eric's build is next level. My goal for this winter is to map out my suspension the way he has and start optimizing it. I am a better setup, tuning guy than I am driver. The 323 runs some interesting choices most people wouldn't expect when it comes...

Those Golden era hondas are closer to 2100lbs - 2000lbs when done right for autocross classes. I want to build one. Just gotta sell 20 years worth of Mazda Protege, 323 GTX, Mx3 parts.. The 323 is a pig at 2260lbs without driver. This was my hay day 323. It was 2100lbs with a 2.5L V6. You'd...

It was definitely a long read going through it all, but well worth it. I am a fellow Canadian, so I share your pain in the cost of building a car. Just like you, if I drove an hour across the border I could do things for half the cost, until all the stupid tax, duties and exchange rate kick...

I spent the last couple of weeks going through your thread start to finish. It's been a fantastic read. Looking forward to next season and watching how it shapes up for you. I've been trying to make sense of time attack classing for my build, but I find it worse than autocross. What rule set...

When I did my suspension I stuck with the stock Bilsteins.. Coil spring replacement would depend on what condition yours are in. Is suspension sagging at all? usually it's the rear end.. I don't know where you'd find stock Mazdaspeed 6 springs though. They are stiffer than normal Mazda 6...

I have a Speed6 and my own Snap on Verus (labscope) if you need help getting a scope capture... The snap on stuff doesn't capture as much time as a picoscope does... but could still help

Did you re-tune it since fixing the fueling issues? Or reach out to contact Justin about it? Technically your total trims (short and long term combined) aren't bad based on the logs.. but they are splitting in an interesting way... Do you have catch cans setup? I would be good to just hit data...

Sounds like the ECO boost gets its timing chain design from the 2.5L MZRs..

Need logs to look at in order to help.. The best logs are taken at operating temps, normal driving for about 15 - 20 min with a good mix of easy accell a couple of full throttle runs through the rpm range.. A little bit of idle time as well.. smooth throttle movements is key.. This gives a good...

I've had a similar issue on my speed 6... Get your injectors flow tested... don't bother with trying to do an injector service.. go straight to pulling them out and having them flow checked and serviced.. You'll likely find 1 or 2 of the injectors are drippy not spraying right.. since it's a...

I'd expect almost any engine to burn about 1 liter of oil within 3,000 miles... All engines burn a small bit of oil as part of cylinder lubrication.. a couple of table spoon of oil in you catch can is Normal... If/when you start driving when ambient temps dip around 40 deg and below start...

Your compression numbers don't indicate a blow by issue causing crank case pressure issues.. Especially at idle... Do a proper leak down test, this will tell you if you have a blow by issue... I've seen a few motors with good compression numbers, but fail a leak down test.. It's usually...

Did you spray the area you found bubbles with brake clean(non chlorinated), carb cleaner or propane while watching your trim data live?? You watch the O2 from cold start as it comes on line during warm up.. You watch how it's responding to changes in driving condition.. Generally bad rear O2's...

Get a proper data log first with it plugged in.. There's a diagnostic process I am suggesting since this problem can be 90% diagnosed with 1 test drive and proper data log... I don't disagree that the rear O2 can cause a problem... But when you don't follow a data based process you just get lost...

Did you spray any brake clean/carb cleaner around the leak with the bubbles you found? while the motor was running and watching your trims? I'll take a screen shot of the ForScan pids to log later on.. Keep your Rear O2 plugged in and use it validate the front O2 sensor and what your trims...

A vacuum leak gets smaller as the manifold pressure raises, this turns into a boost leak when it goes above atmospheric.. You're trims will show positive at idle and light driving, they'll go down and possibly dip into the negative as you climb into boost... Between the throttle body and turbo...

Snap shots don't give you trends.. The driving log gives you trends.. Trends give you a lot more data... Boost leaks, vacuum leaks, dirty Maf sensors can all be pinpointed from the drivers seat with a proper log... A snap shot is a piece of information, but it doesn't tell the story.. It can be...

Fuel trim issues shouldn't be looked at from a snap shot stand point... Fuel trims are used in relationship with codes, and drivability issues.. You also look at them for trends under different driving conditions... You aren't worried about AFR when you are in closed loop, The ECU is using fuel...

It takes a level of dedication and understanding to keep these cars alive..

Don't wait.. just get up and go while you can.. Make it happen.. I am in my 40's and that was the first vacation I've taken in 6 years.. It's the first time I've ever been on holiday with a budget greater then $2000..