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Ok ya worthless maggots, here are some instructions. Feel free to add your thoughts. -You do not need a hydraulic press but it's preferable to a hammer. -You cannot install the the shaft into the new bearing and carrier on a hydraulic press without using a section of pipe or something to raise...

post a link to what? The procedure? Make sure you order the bearing and the seals first from Mazda. GREAT time to change your from sway bar bushings! More space for sure. My new Mazda bearing which measured the same as the old one, was actually loose inside the carrier. I could it push it on...

I did this weekend. Ill post pics and instructions. My bearing was pretty sloppy after 160k miles. You can see comparison between old and new in this video. https://youtube.com/shorts/IP6OXWzxQF4?feature=share

Hey Gents, I just took my intermediate shaft out to R&R the bearing while I was doing a front spring swap. My original bearing has almost 160k miles on it and Ive been getting some weird driveline noises last few thousand miles. The original unit was definitely sloppy. I'll post how to and pics...

The cabin air filter and chamber were clear. I changed the filter while I was there IF the motor for the recirculation door gets stuck would it impede airflow? OR could the air proportioning door do that?

wow

for sure...I will definitely check it. Would be stupid not to.

Ya filter came to mind...I changed it a few years ago. I didn't have any tools on me but I will check it this week. But filter doesn't become unclogged all of sudden. Its usually a slow progression.

RockAuto

Hey Ya'll, On highway this Saturday, 95F outside (2007 Speed3, 157k miles) and I think I was messing around with the recirculate button or changing the vents the air would come from and suddenly I have virtually no air flow from vents. What was coming out was cold but not enough flow to cool...

Its terrible to have to throw away a perfectly good unit over this $2 motor. I don't know anything about DC motors, but I read that with low voltage permanent magnet DC motors you can only change the direction of the shaft by reversing the polarity. Ill post some tips for getting the locks...

This kia Sedona motor fit as well but the screw is reversed and it spins the opposite direction.

Bad news. So I found 3 pairs of generic 12V motors on Ebay that fit perfectly, but they all spun in the wrong direction. One pair had the + and _ connections at the wrong end. When tested with 12v source they all spun opposite to the OEM motor. So when I tried one of them it would lock the door...

I got $6 motor from eBay and it worked. I'll upload pics. It's easy to swap the motor Annoying part is detaching the door handle from the mechanism and finding the tab to release the inner door never from the door.

I already did: https://flic.kr/s/aHBqjzL6yx 8mm x 1.25 tap, 1/4 drill bit and the 3/16th brass barb I linked to above. Some Teflon tape on the threads and screw it in. Its easy.

Thats what I'm trying to avoid. $150 per side or $7 for a 12v electric motor. I'll let ya know if I find a matching motor. This kia Sedona motor is very similar in all measurements.

Hey Guys, My front door lock power locks stopped working so I took the actuator out of the driver's side and opened up the Yushin made mechanism. Looks like the tiny 12v motor isn't working. It reacts sometimes and sometimes not and gets very hot. It's easy to get to it once you have the...

The JB weld didn't adhere to the nipple even with some scuffing of the surface. It popped out too easily and that made me nervous it would come out unexpectedly, so i used a 3/16 brass barb with a threaded base from Amazon. Turned out way better. It's not fragile like the plastic nipple. I...

no longer....they want full MSRP.

Which online dealer? Onlinemazdaparts is selling them at $170 & 180 each. Quirkparts on EBAY has OEM for $150 with shipping included...