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A little bump for a new gasket. I got a barely used Corksport race pipe (approximately 3 inch opening) for my 6 a while back and tried this gasket on the rear, going to the stock catback. I finally got around to installing it today and it's a great fit and the quality of the gasket is top notch.

I finally crawled under the car and put mine in today. My only difficulty was that whoever put this on last tightened them to 1,000,000 ft lbs. My impact wrench had no trouble on the bolts it could reach, but it couldn't reach all of them. Anyway, other than overtightened bolts installation was...

Very nice. The NC doesn't get enough love, I don't think. I prefer to think of it more as a mini RX-8 with a considerably more reliable engine than something like a NA or NB Miata. If I were to buy another car there's a good chance this would be it.

Thanks for posting this. I got one just a couple weeks ago that I haven't installed yet, hopefully I'll get to it this week sometime.

Yes, it's legit. I bought my 6 in 2018, the PO had caught the recalls up to that point before sale. There was a new one that hit last year. From what my paperwork shows, on one of the airbags (passenger side?) they didn't have a permanent replacement yet when the previous recall was done...

I had a 84 RX-7 GSLSE for a long time with a manual rack. I don't really want to go back.

I don't really mind manual steering Miatas, but I'll take one with power steering any day. I can't even imagine trying to drive something the size of the MS6 with the relatively fat tires at getting it into a tight parking space without the assist.

This thread is a good read with a few recommendations: https://www.mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/how-to-mazdaspeed6-fluid-notes-diy-pictures.9850/ Personally I have the Redline in my diff. I tried the recommended Amsoil at first, and even with the Sliplock added it was still making some...

I have a MS6, but it should be identical. Yes, there is an oring, it goes on the bottom of the PCV valve. This diagram shows the placement a bit better:

It kinda seems "meh" in stock form to me, but I'm really excited to see what people can do with it. And since Mazda is putting the 2.5T engine in a few different cars in a few years it may become a fun tuner engine that is readily available.

I'd like to say maybe we shouldn't waste free money on car parts, but I fully plan on using a chunk of that to get a pro tune on my car.

I believe it's a shield to protect the metal high pressure fuel line in the event of a front end accident. Perhaps the engineers figured out that with the shield it's more likely that the line doesn't break and spray high pressure fuel all over the place at the most inopportune time...

The last few pics reminded me of tearing all my stuff apart a few weeks ago. The leaky PCV plate, oil on the MAP, it all looks identical to mine. I cleaned the hell out of my sensor with MAF cleaner as the Penguin said, seems to be working just fine.

Random potato phone pic after finally getting it back together and giving it a bath. It's so good to be able to drive it again.

I did this the other day. I used a dry silicone spray lubricant (it's seriously magic) on the orings and pushed on both ends. It's kinda hard to get enough leverage to push it at the right angle but after a few minutes of messing with it I got it pushed on enough that I could get the bolts to...

Nice! I missed getting an upgraded top mount a few weeks ago cheap, still kicking myself for that one.

Wow, it's really been 2 months, how time flies when your car is busted! Just posting the solution here for any future people who have similar problems. Just like that thread I linked previously, the final solution was to replace the fuel rail. And yes, I did pretty much everything else I could...

I believe the blow test only shows you that a valve is bad, not necessarily if it was good or not. If it has failed, you might be able to blow right through it. A working one opens at what, 1850 psi? I can't blow that hard. For shits and giggles I tried it on a PRV I removed from my car a...

Well not yet, as other than the sensor I don't have spare parts laying around to test swapping HPFPs, PRVs, etc, and wanted to seek advice before spending hundreds on parts I may or may not need, especially since in that thread the parts swapping did nothing to help until he replaced the fuel...

Hey guys, I was wanting some advice on this issue before I start throwing more money and parts at the problem. Car is a 2006, completely stock other than an Accessport with the Cobb Stage 0 tune on it. TLDR version: Car threw code P0192, I put in new Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor, now it runs but...