Search results

Unfortunately I was not the one that did the original tapping of the block to the larger 3/8 NPT. All I ended up having to do was find the correct NPT to -4AN adapter to correct my oil feed line adapter tree issue. I will tell you though that whoever did it on my car, did it poorly and metal...

All good bits of advice. Thanks. I did check the charge first off, and it was still within pressure spec (cheap one-gauge filler setup, not proper dual gauges), not low or too high. When watching the clutch try and engage with the interior hot and the system warm, it kept skipping. Basically it...

I understand that, the catch is it won't re-engage unless I let the engine come down to below 1000RPM. Say I pull out and step on it for 1st through 3rd, then shift to 6th for cruising, Settling in around 3000RPMs. A/C clutch will not engage at this point unless I clutch in, let the RPMs fall to...

So I got tires on the car. Definitely a better fit with 235/40-R18 than the 215/45-R18s that were on the OZ Italia 150 18x8 rims. Being on stock springs also means that there is no rubbing at full steering lock or going over decent bumps. I'll call this one a success. Additionally, she...

Last Weekend: In place of the Christmas tree of AN adapters, I now have an appropriate NPT to -4AN fitting sealed into the block with teflon tape. Additionally, I believe a PO tapping the block to NPT was the source of the metal in the journal bearing of the turbo. Also just about finished...

For some reason i recall NPT has a taper on it so some good thread sealant should be sufficient I would think? Also using thread sealant should keep me from over tightening and causing further damage to the oil feed area.

Eureka! I think I not only found the right adapter specs, but also the source of the metal in the turbo. After doing some sleuthing, and fining a distinct lack of appropriately sized metric to AN fittings, I deduced that it might be a standard thread. Lo and behold it is actually a 3/8 NPT...

Well, I got buggered again. Went to replace the oil feed line and found the stack of adapters below coming out of the block. As best I can determine it consists of: Block -> Either an M16x1.5 to -8AN or an M17x1 to -8AN -> -8AN to -6AN -> -6AN to -4AN ->Oil Feed line From what I have found...

Thanks! I am thinking of getting some 5/16" silicone hose to couple from the stock coolant "T" to the Mamba lines for now. But it seems like a bandaid solution rather than having a proper "T" fitting that would connect to the (i assume) -4 AN coolant line.

Despite working from home for the last 3+ months, I haven't gotten to do as much on the speed as I would have liked. Fortunately I was able to get back to working on it and got the intake valves moderately clean. I tried using the walnut shell blasting, but didn't have much luck. second method...

That's not a bad idea. I have to do some other wiring "fixes" before the manifold goes back on anyway. Also, I see lots of people advocating for a catch can. However when I researched, it looks like the PCV plate on the side of the block is supposed to act as a catch can by OEM design? Is a...

Made some more progress lately as well. Pulled the intake manifold to put the brass fitting for the brake booster connection along with installing CS injector seals and a new PCV valve. I am also doing a bit of a valve clean while I am this deep into the engine. I did pick up a catch can, but...

Thanks all for the info so far. While I wanted to go with a CST4, various factors ended up changing the goal somewhat. I have had my stock K04 rebuilt by a reputable local turbo shop (balanced, new CHRA etc) for a reasonable cost. I believe I will still need to do some tuning with Mazdaedit as I...

Finally got around to working on the Speed again during the Quarantine. Mainly worked on getting the Manzo downpipe installed and getting actual HPFP internals installed. HPFP internals were installed fairly easily and the HPFP is staged for when the turbo is installed. Also, I think I found a...

It was close enough as makes no difference to $450 out the door. Full rebuild with new CHRA, turbine and compressor wheels, balance, etc. It was through a local shop so no shipping either. Thanks. I was looking at the downpipe gasket that came with the downpipe and the gasket I got from the...

Today was a good day. Got the turbo back from the shop. It needed a new CHRA, compressor and turbine wheels and was completely overhauled. the catless downpipe also showed up. Once I get the Corksport HPFP and injector seals, I should be good to get reassembling!

The CST 4 rose to the top due to price, performance and stock location installation reasons. The goal is to stay within the confines of the stock fuel system and stock block. I.e. no need to go with a massive turbo, which would snowball into auxiliary port injection, larger, louder exhaust...

Thanks StreetSpeed6, but currently the stock BPV I have appears to test out fine. I will let you know if it comes up as a possible issue after reassembly. So despite not believing the turbo was knackered, I sent it off to a local turbo rebuild shop for analysis. Got the call yesterday from the...

Thats what has me puzzled. The leaks I have found are small enough that they cannot account for the turbo only producing 4psi of boost flat out. They just can't leak enough CFM to have that impact on airflow. The items that could do that from what I can reason are a major boost leak (not found)...

I know there are speeds running around my area but I do not know anyone else that has a speed. I had a BPV from a CX7 but the vacuum nipple broke off on removal. Aftermarket may be the most expedient bet if it is the BPV. The PCV was mainly the area leaking off of the VC area, so I don't think...