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If the problem persists, Check the connectors on the back of the Instrument cluster, those codes are for communication errors to the cluster, which could unfortunately be the cluster itself shitting the bed.

Splendid, Speed on!

Unless your car uses hyperconductors for wires, there will always be some measurable resistance. Like I said, just run new wires to the resistor from the relay position and call it a day. The wires are likely damaged from the mouse, and a partially chewed wire can show excessive resistance...

Resistance or open circuit? It is normal to see .2-.4 Ohms on a good circuit. Instead of tearing into the entire wiring harness, just run new wires from the fuse block to the Resistor and splice them accordingly. And of course, if the relay is not energized, you will show OL

Yup, that'll do it every time. Clean thoroughly and carefully inspect the wires for damage.

I would suspect a bad resistor. I know you said that you replaced it, but was the replacement used?

You could try back probing the Crank sensor and monitoring voltage there if you have a DVOM, but catching the voltage drop or spike is difficult. Really the only other way to test the sensor is with an oscilloscope. Most Snap On or other high quality scanners have this feature but finding...

And you verified voltage on both relays even when it won't run? I thought maybe the resistor might be getting too hot and crapping out. Another way you could be certain that it's an electrical issue related to fuel pressure is to monitor voltage right at the ITFP connector. If you still have...

Have you tried removing the resistor from the equation? Unplug it and jumper the two wires together. Still no codes?

I was just trying to determine if the loss of fuel pressure was actually causing the engine to die, or if some other electrical issue was going on. So when you are viewing live data, does the fuel pressure start to go down just before the engine dies or is the fuel pressure at normal (430 psi...

Yeah, I mentioned the fan thing because if the coolant temp sensor or T-stat is having an issue, the coolant temp may not be accurate, which could point towards a blown head gasket. Small vacuum leaks certainly wouldn't cause the engine to die, just run lean so it would have to be a massive...

it has to be something flammable, so carb cleaner or brake cleaner. Otherwise the engine wont burn it and you won't hear/see the increase in RPM. You can also do this while viewing STFT's on your Accessport. If you have a leak, the STFT's should go towards lean (+ trims) then when you spray...

This is the one where they determine that the connection on the bottom of the fuse block at the harness was bad. You could try the jumper just to be sure. If your Primary O2 is bad, it won't cause the car to die, the PCM will just run the engine excessively rich. Are you certain you don't...

Maybe this? Sounds like an electrical issue if the car will run and then just randomly die. Try wiggling the wiring harness going into the fuse block while the car is running. If it ran for a while after you replaced the relays, maybe you disturbed a poor connection there. I know someone...

Still no Codes? Sometime fault codes will be stored in the PCM and not illuminate the CEL

Yeah if you can blow through the relief valve I would start with that.

Generally if you have a hard fault with an electrical issue, (short to ground, short to power, or unplugged connector) you will get a CEL almost immediately. The relief valve failure can cause your issue if the ball inside is not sealing and not letting the pressure build at all. Can you keep...

Well if your KOEO pressure holds 65 psi, then your relay and wiring are likely good and is sending the correct voltage to the In-tank pump. You can bypass the Pump resistor by jumpering the resistor connector. Just unplug it from the resistor and jumper the two female tabs together with a wire...

Any codes? What is your KOEO fuel pressure? When the engine does idle, what is your fuel rail pressure?