Well.. I cheated. I got tuned by Justin, and then swapped to a catless DP, made an additional 24whp 30wtq and almost 26psi on the colder days. I knew I was taking a risk.. but that extra power is sooo hard to turn down. Pretty much why I opted to build before I blew it up.
My S3 was reaching ~120% when it got cold - yours will too. When you sacrifice that specific gravity and injector scaling for alcohol, it gets chewed up quick. Napkin math says you get ~5% IDC for every 250ml/min 100% meth you are spraying if you're at / near 100% IDC.
It's about at that level most likely - 95% IDCs with the meth flowing and massively descaled MAF curve. We'll see. The target audience for 4032's is someone like @VTMongoose that packs on the miles, hits the occasional AutoX, road course, etc. I flog my car daily (once she's up to temp, never...
I would factor climate into your choice also. If you live up North / colder area, your car is going to take longer to get up to operating temp, and that is where the 2618s are a liability for beating up the cylinder walls. I looked at 4032s also, but had a sneaking suspicion they might still...
I love my CS wheel. If you drive aggressively with regularity, the fat grip is confidence inspiring, doubly so because the perforated leather doesn't let your hands sweat and possibly slip. I get less hand/arm fatigue because I feel 100% in control. It's like using a generic oblong 2-button...
I've re-used the OEMs every time. If they are clean *and* you follow my directions that will torque it first, it's hard to get a leak. Those paper shits BNR includes can be tossed in the trash. The MLS EM to turbo and turbo to DP gaskets Bryan includes - those look decent. I might try them...
Going out the bottom is definitely viable also.
We drain coolant because we add a section of hose to the heater core 5/8" line that passes directly under the turbo inlet - if you don't add that bit extra, there's a significant chance you'll end up rubbing through it later. HTP has a handy kit...
~140 miles in and she's running great.
Idled for 30 mins and drained it, mild driving for 100 miles with some engine braking and another oil change, and 1 more at 200 miles then it's game on for tuning. The ACT 6-puck pedal pressure is maybe 5lbs heavier than OEM (barely noticeable) and the...
I can't thank you enough @ms6mil for helping this weekend *and* saving me a 6 hour drive to drop off my core. We're looking forward to repaying the favor on your build!
Thanks a bunch @Gandalf for making the trek and lending your hands. I'll post up some more pics in the morning, but we got her fired up mid-afternoon and the engine is sounding great. The ACT 6-puck is surprisingly stock-ish with a lot more feel than I expected and stop-n-go friendly pedal...
I'd love to find a date conducive for everyone, but our friend John's MS6 is limping on 3 cyls. My block will likely be his core and I hope to get it back to EBtec ASAP. @ms6mil the only thing I can think of that would be nice to have is some scuff guards for hanging over the fenders - if I...
I can always use more LEDs - it's looking like this coming Friday and Saturday (26-27) for the swap. @ms6mil and @865ms3 have been invited to assist. We'll probably have a general meet but keep hands in the engine bay to a minimum so stuff doesn't get misplaced.
I would say that depends on if you're flogging the shit out the car and running to 7.2K RPM so you're not touching 5th in the 1/4. People crack ring lands on (a lot) less, so I decided to be proactive.
Chris stuck to his word and met me halfway to drop this off, and it was much appreciated. This build was on my spare core, but that just means yours is already out there doing work for someone else. I forsee a lot of MZR builds for EBtec.