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Feel stupid now. Went back and looked at a pic after reading this and they're literally right there. Thanks.

Since the CS Pi manifold apparently doesnt exist I was going to go with the JMF V2. Just looking for confirmation that all I would need to do is get 10an to 6an reducers for the fuel rail (8th port kit being 6an and the JMF mani rail being 10an). Just piecing together on paper at the moment...

Sage info. Will check them out. Thanks man. Free carfax is dope. Will donate asap. Edit: Started looking those places up and Race City is conveniently in NC only an hour away. Would save tons on freight. Will check everyone though and talk to people there.

Long story short, had a 2012 that I never had built that was stolen 3 years ago and totaled and im entertaining the idea of replacing it except doing all the things I wish I had done the first time. Said stolen speed was essentially fully modded on a GT3071r and tuned around 26psi on an E35...

Updated original post with give up diagnosis. Probably just going to sell to someone who can figure it out before it blows. Thanks for the suggestions.

@Enki So I spent 2 hours probing essentially the entire engine bay with a stethoscope and found by far the loudest area. Not saying it's the cause but it is roughly twice as loud where the high pressure line bolts to the fuel rail(exactly where shown in pic). I traced away on the hardline...

Updating with a much better video. As you can hear and see as long as I hold it around 1000 psi (just the mark I'm using since no other parameter seems to be consistent) it makes the sound continuously. When I give it throttle it stops entirely and then does it momentarily after let off as it...

Looking that way. Runs completely normal and I would normally be more ok with just letting it get worse but it renders the knock sensor basically useless. I can be coasting in vacuum and blip it through the range where its doing it and it might be sub 1.0 or 3s and 5s now. WOT pulls on my 93...

Edit : For the best hope of someone being able to suggest things, if I ease into it, it sounds like a chirp down low and escalates to a "click" higher up and then an almost metal on metal "clank" right before it stops doing it entirely. Sometimes its just a chirp depending on how quickly I put...

Logs looks fine. Everything seems good to go fueling wise. Original chirping noise problem still exists so it wasn't the fuel pump. I don't have a stethoscope or someone to sit and blip the throttle while I listen but with my ear as close as I can get it kind of sounds like its coming from...

Went ahead and pulled it and tore it back down because insomnia. Edit: Fixed Spill valve was loose enough to spin the connector with a little force (apparently ok according to guides) put another ugga dugga on it until connector wouldn't move and pressure is fine. Did do another complete tear...

Will take it back out and go over it again tomorrow after work and report back. In the meanwhile is there anything else you can think of that would cause low operating pressure in a situation where it passes a KOEO PRV test and shows proper tank pressure?

Would it be worth pulling the spill valve and checking that or just go full on tear down? I checked movement on the pin after the collar was in place and it seemed to move freely so I'm not sure.

Used naphtha VM&P for cleaning. Redline for lubrication. Slight bit of Pennzoil Platinum 5-30 (what I'm running) on orings. Internals had no galling or scuffing, just very very black death colored. Looked new after cleaning. I could have POSSIBLY gotten too much engine oil on things that should...

Got replacement bolts, got everything serviced and cleaned and oiled (was very bad) new orings etc. Back on the car. Cranked after priming the lines. Had a normal cold start like you would expect. Rpms settle to the 1k its tuned for and idle pressure slowly dropped from 400 to 300 to sub 200...

An hour. I did find what I think is the part number for the 3 pack last night (L3K9-13-366B) As easily as the OEM ones snapped at sub torque spec force I didn't really want to put the same stuff back in but will at this point because I'm totally over it.

Gave up trying to find the bolt specs anywhere so I tried to order the corksport rebuild kit and can't because they won't ship here (as in I can't complete the order because it says no shipping options available). I guess I'm just going to try to get at least one of them out intact and go...

That was my original plan to just break the heads off but then read about instances where the bolts were loosened unevenly and it cocked the other bolts sideways enough that the female threads were boned when they came out. In my brain I'm thinking if NONE of the bolts were unthreaded until all...

Serviced spill valve while on car. No change. Extremely gunked so attempted to do a full tear down and cleaning and the E8 heads on the mounting bolts just twist off way before there has been enough force applied to loosen the bolt (yes I'm going in the right direction, yes they were torqued to...

From inside the cabin it sounded like it was coming from the fuel rail/injector area (more to the passenger side) but I had someone feather the throttle at idle to bring it up and down through that pressure range while I was listening and its 100% coming from the HPFP so yeah spill valve/gunked...