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So while the rear subframe is out, I decided to use some Rustoleum reform/seal/black spray paint on it to make it pretty, also installed the new front/rear diff mounts and rear swaybar. I also had a hell of a time with the bolt stuck in the top of the rear diff, but finally it decided to come...

I went to install the front/rear diff mounts and rear swaybar yesterday, and the very last bolt on the top of the diff snapped off. fuuuuuuuuudge. So today, I dropped the rear subframe and got the front diff mount/rear swaybar set into place w/ the steeda endlinks, and need to find someone at...

The walmart claims dept sent a form for me to fill out, i sent them the pictures from above with the damage along with links to the parts/prices, mentioned I would fix it (free labor), but they haven't gotten back to me yet. I'm assuming that's a good sign, probably still under review on their...

Thanks for adding some old school build pics! I'm only questionable about the turbo, cuz Chris told me in private it wasn't as big as he told others it was. I might take it out and measure it, but doesn't really matter anyway. I'm going to try to install the front/rear diff mounts this...

So, took the front clip off and found they hit it pretty hard. They hit the bolt on the ramp hard enough to push the fmic back into the radiator core support (broken), and into the bottom of the radiator, which now leaks.. pics included.

Well, I took it up to Walmart to get the tires mounted (since I bought them through walmart.com), and they put a hole in the front mount intercooler trying to get it onto their ramps (since both their lifts are down). ARGH! Oh well, new intercooler coming soon as well :/

Most of these are older parts and were installed on the car around 2015-2016'ish, but the car sat for about 8 years and I'm finally now getting back to it. I still have a few of the parts in the garage I need to install (wot box, diff mounts, rear sway bar, etc), but I have it back up and...

Car: 2006 Mazdaspeed 6 (Liquid Platinum Metallic) Motor: From Downmented: (RUNNING) - Speed Perf6rmanc3 built long block - Bored .20 over - Custom Wiseco 10.6:1 Compression pistons - Manley I-Beam rods - 11mm H11 head studs/ stock head gasket - Keyed Crank/ pinned cams - Stock camshafts with...

I finished up the camber arms and new shock (H&R Street Coilovers) on the passenger side, but had a bit too much camber on them, so need to adjust them tomorrow. I installed the filter on the PRV, so the CS e85 fuel pump kit is now fully installed. I also put in the new rear calipers.. pretty...

I planned to do camber arms and rear shocks today (already had the springs in a month ago). What a pain in the D-hole! I was able to get one side done, but getting to those bolts is ridiculous! I found I could get to two of them with the box end of a wrench, but the other one took a short...

I took out all of the fuel lines, measured, and ordered 25ft of fuel line from Evil Energy: EVIL ENERGY Fuel Injection Hose Fuel Hose Line SAE 30R9 This is rubber hose, but inside has FKM, so I can still use all of the AN fittings and not the specialized ones from PTFE lines (which I hear is a...

I replaced the fuel tank recalled rings, upper + gasket and the lower rings (which are a PITA) today, and drew a pretty little picture of all of the fuel lines I need to replace with e85 ready PTFE lines (3/8" -6AN). I'll pull all of the lines next weekend, measure and order the new ones. I...

Fuel pump internals from CS installed and verified no fuel leaks, quick rev and i saw 1872 on the AP, good to go! I got the flu/covid shot yesterday, so I'm relaxing the rest of the day. :D

Screwdriver and a few careful whacks does the trick for me :D I did notice the 1650/1700 fuel pressure in a log, and I only ever had a 0psi base tune on it, but that might help explain why it was breaking up so bad around 3200'ish rpm at WOT, since it's fully loaded with mods. :) Oh well, I'll...

So I took off my fuel pump today to clean it up and swap with the e85 ready o-rings, and I found there's stock internals!? I can't remember if this is the pump I got from Downmented's motor or came with the slightly modified setup from the previous 6 owner, but damn, glad I found this out now...

The big 3 will benefit any power level, better grounding will give you less voltage drop when the bass hits.

Nahh, I did have a speed3.. but I did it in my volvo 850 GLT. Yeah, 4 gauge is fine.

I did this on my previous car, and it helped a ton with power fluctuations when the bass hit hard. I used some welding wire, which should be cheaper than standard radio you get from rockford/etc. When you do the big 3, leave the current wires in place and just add more, as it'll follow the...