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That was the problem. Reconnected the battery, now trims within +-5. Thanks for the help.

I replaced MAF O-Ring and cleaned the sensor. I also did a thorough check of the intake side, re-doing clamps and cannot find any leaks. Code will not go away and fuel trims still are garbage. I haven't had the time to do a check of the exhaust but probably will this weekend. In addition I'm...

I did say I was on the stock Cobb map. I have not tested boost leak but why would boost leak cause rich at idle? There is no boost to leak at idle.

I have a stock diameter Corksport ram air intake and BNR S1. It is on the stock Cobb map (should be same as Mazda OEM afaik). Everything else is bone stock. I only run 93-octane fuel. I'm getting P2188 (Rich at idle) and can verify it idles rich, at least if the AC is off... either way, LTFT is...

I got the car finished today. The shorter bolt on the return line seems to be working but I'll keep an eye on it. Everything else went back on fine. I replaced all 4 studs on the top of the turbo and the gasket which was damaged due to the exhaust leak.

Stock is 20 mm. I threaded in 12mm (it is M6-1.0), so that fits the general rule. If it doesn't work (ie leaks) I will have a shop re-do it.

Yes I have 2 bolts in. One is just not the stock bolt, it's shorter. It's still down tight though. If I have a leak I may have to have a shop work on it... but that is my last resort. Otherwise, if this bolt works, then it works, I guess.

The bolts threads are fine. One goes in clean, the other can get barely halfway. So I bought another bolt from Home Depot that was like 12mm long (stock is 20) and that got all the way down tight. I'll just keep an eye out for leaks. I would like studs but there doesn't seem to be a store near...

I think the same problem I'm having now would happen with studs. It won't go straight in, it wants to be angled. I suppose it would be easier with the line out of the way. Do you happen to have the specs for the stud I would need?

I removed 2 from the pan, not the ones from the turbo. It was in fine when I took it out. So I have no idea why it is being so difficult going back in. I think I may just use liquid gasket stuff and leave the 2nd bolt out.

So I got the turbo off and new studs in, all the way attached, before running into a major roadblock. The oil return line uses 2 8mm bolts, the one closer to the oil pan will not thread in correctly at all. I would have had the car done today but instead wasted nearly 5 hours trying to thread...

How did you manage the oil return line? I have a BNR S1 so it is essentially identical to the stock one, it uses the metal return line. I assume I'll have to at least take that off.

Last January I had to replace my turbo because of the common smoking issue. All was fine until I discovered an exhaust leak between the exhaust manifold and turbo, and re-tightening the nuts fixed it. But it kept coming back, so I ordered OEM locking nuts to replace the generic exhaust nuts I...

Another update. Cleaned up spark plugs and everything is running really well now! I'll get my AP in and see stuff about logging and fuel trims, but this is a really good state for the car to be in.

Okay, the issue is a Cylinder #1 misfire (P0301). I suspect bad spark plugs. When I pulled the coil & plug there was a slight liquid buildup and a lot of white gunk around the hole, so perhaps a bad coil seal let water in and killed the plug. I ordered ITV-22's yesterday and they will come in...

I actually had the battery completely out of the car several times, I forgot to mention I did a boost leak test before deciding to do an exhaust leak test and so had to remove the battery and intake tract to get to the turbo. Then when I get all the stuff back on it started having this issue, so...

Hello All, I'm back again with an update. I've fixed the issue. This sound was not normal. It actually was an exhaust leak from where the exhaust manifold meets the turbo, to fix it I loosened the 4 studs and then torqued them down to 45 ft-lb which is just a bit more than what I'd done last...

Okay I'll keep that all in mind and update this thread down the line if I do anything to fix it. Also this sound developed over time, it didn't happen for the first 400-500 miles I put on the turbo.

Sorry for not replying sooner. I don't have a log and since I'm on campus I don't drive my car very often. Right now all I have is that sound, but I do know it is reaching normal boost levels (~14 psi), no CEL, and no other noticeable symptoms. Really what I'm getting at is does that whistling...

I replaced my turbo with a BNR S1 recently and while this noise didn't happen at first it's developed after ~900 otherwise flawless miles. I'm fairly certain it's a boost leak, but I'm relatively new to turbo vehicles and wanted others thoughts. Thanks