Just to clarify... If you are 100% sure that you will NEVER pull the injectors, the CPe seals are probably fine for you. If there is ANY slight chance that you might pull the injectors for any reason, go with CS. These CPe seals didn't show signs of leaking, I simply needed to remove them to...
GC springs for the conversion are all generics out of the ERS catalog. when ordering they initially ask for driving style of touring, aggressive or track, then they later discuss your car and give you a suggestion of rates. I figure they probably have some good input, but I'd also like to hear...
My Cobb rsb is close enough. I would never run a jbr bar because they constantly break. Last thing I need is it snapping on a high speed sweeper sending me into an understeer.
If I need stiffer after springs, it will be hotchkiss.
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The CS and jbr 1.25 is too light for a fsb in my opinion. But the Cobb is beefy enough to run a fsb. Hotchkiss is another that is crazy stiff rsb that can be paired with a fsb. It's all about balance.
Al
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If the rsb is stiff enough, you can go with a fsb. The Cobb is. The car is far more neutral balanced than stock sways which I really like.
Al
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That's not my main goal.... I'm just saying that I don't think removing the fsb is a good idea. I am very close to neutral, but not quite there. I am thinking with the right balance of spring rates I can get it dialed in perfect. I run full track days, stability in corners is key. I see...
Yeah, I'm happy with having both bars.... Corners flat as a pancake. I could use a slightly stiffer bar in the rear, but figure a slight bias in spring rates might make it perfect. The Cobb sways I have are set on softest front and firmest rear.
Al
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I'm planning on the ground control coil conversion for my koni yellows within the next couple of moths and trying to decide on spring rates. I'm running cobb front and rear sway bars and want to dial the car a little more neutral balanced or slightly oversteer biased. right now it's slightly...
Here is a quick comparison of the CPe seals vs the CS seals.
CPe seals with only 10k miles, all 4 stuck in the head on injector removal. A pilot bearing slide hammer has popped 2 free, 2 are disintegrating, and scoring the injector sleeve in the head.
CS tokay seals with 20k miles, all 4...
trying to pull the axles from the hub, nothing is working. 5-ton puller won't budge them. but i notice some blue heat scoring low on the threads and onto the splines. has anyone had this problem before? i ran it hard last year at a track day, but i wouldn't think there would be enough heat...