I can confirm blocking off the hood scoop makes a difference. I have a CS scoop, was even running a koyo radiator, and coolant temps would get high. I blocked off with some 1/8" perforated steel (I figured that would allow some air to pass through as if the TMIC was still in place). Bats rarely...
I have had an issue where the pump doesn't shut off and I get a splash of fuel spill out on/down the car for the 6 months or so. No matter what pump, station, or if I placed nozzle deep in the hole or just the tip :handpointright::handok::thumbsup: Didn't do it for the first 65k miles of the...
They are 2.5 Inches under the head. Substantially longer than stock. I recommend getting the ball joint separator to press in and out if you don't have one. With a 15mm you might get away with OEM lug nuts. Might.
You will need longer in the back if you go 10 as well. Those studs and a 10mm...
There's always this one. A local Nator member is selling it. Engine is crazy solid. I believe he has fairly recent compression numbers.
https://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/cto/5929337461.html
Not trying to derail the thread OP, just wanted to post another option that people can vouch for.
I have a CNT catted DP and a UR axleback. IMO, the drone from the UR is too much at HWY cruising (70-75). I put in a vibrant ultra quiet resonator and that killed much of the drone but it is still drony imo.
Also, a fellow Nator member has the speed daddy. It is an ill fitting thing that melted...
I cut it off my stock shroud leaving enough flat surface to attach underneath the CPE shroud. Then just marked and drilled holes, went to my local ACE Hardware and picked up some nuts/bolts. Easy peasy.