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So when i purchased the occ from damond, the hose already had the check valve pre-installed. I didnt bother to check it.

Stupid question but, i tried doing a boost leak test on the intake side and air is escaping from my vta cc. Could this be causing the leak? I have a brand new pcv valve and the check valve that damond supplied.

No

Really what?

20

Ok. So then my issue lies elsewhere.

No

Wouldnt a bad evap system throw a code? Edit: i get what you mean now. Ill need to do a drive cycle to get systems ready. But damn i put at least over 100 miles on it since the recent work

Im trying to chase a potential boost leak and I think ive exhausted all my options here. Boost leak tested and found nothing. Tuned for 25 psi but im only getting 14-16 at wot. Rarely i get 19-20 but only during certain conditions. My ltft is at -9.52 and stft is at -3.28 at idle. At wot, they...

Thanks!

unfortunately im not having any luck.

I will try this. Thanks!

So crank it all the down to soft? I have it in the middle right now.

I am running a turbosmart bov. Ive noticed if i move the nozzle for soft/hard it affects the boggling that i mentioned.

Yes its a stock block. Might be a dumb question but would i need a retune for deleting the egr?

As the title states, i am a bit confused as to which oil catch can is right for my setup. I am looking at damond but unsure at which stages to go for. I am running a cst4 at 25 psi. I would like to minimize dirty valves as much as possible. Thanks!

Got it thanks!

Yeah im googling symptoms right now and its suggesting a boost leak. I have no idea how to look for the leak but ill research a bit.

I jiggled the wire this morning and no changes. Max boost is set for 25 and i was able to hit 24 psi. I am not sure if i am saying this correctly but it seem to take long to hit 24. I hit 24 at the end of my powerband. If that makes sense.

maf wire and connections look good. Also cleaned the maf as well. I could not locate the issue. I am hoping its something simple :tired: