The tire width kind of depends on what you're using the car for. Daily whip? stick with the narrow(er) tire for less rolling resistance and better MPG. Actually the narrow would work too for a winter beater.
Dang man!! So sorry to hear, glad you were able to identify it before getting that much farther. I was able to get mine driving and on the road though not legally, LOL.
Funny you should ask, I'm in the process of returning both the knuckles I got back to CARiD. According to them MOOG does not make spindles for our vehicles.
Wrong part numbers are these: MOOG® LK011 - Front Driver Side Steering Knuckle Assembly & MOOG® LK012 - Front Passenger Side Steering...
Man didn't realize you've got a post going too!! Nicely done so far, definitely second the stripped nut removal socket set and soaking in PB overnight for everything trying to remove. I've prepped that same exact area, however I ended up using a couple of coats of Rustoleum instead. Going to...
My wife has tolerated my building so far, though I have to watch the spending and my time spent with family is super important and I loose track of time trying to wrench on this thing.
I've also got that rusty bracket thing going on as well, in my mind I cuss and wish I had a 3D...
HAHAHAHA!!! yes this is with all speeds LOL I feel your pain man. I would just pull the trigger on the bolts along with the washers and nuts. Let me know if you need part numbers.
Glad to see yours was tacked as well I thought I was going crazy. With the bolts, I got my set off of ebay, the dealership couldn't get any in stock. Don't forget to order the nuts and washers though, I got those through the dealership. Also might want to consider ordering new bolts for the...
The sawsall was for cutting out the front subframe bushings which are pressed into the front mounts. Had to pound the breaker bar in between the lip of the bushing and the subframe. Once there is enough room, sawsall time! While trying to not damage the subframe.
For the manual (or de-powered) rack, there are a couple of reasons mainly I didn't want to spend (cannot afford to spend) another $700 on new lines, pump and reservoir. Also this rig will eventually see autocross and hillclimb events, maybe even track days so I figured why not? Mainly though was...
Sooo there has been a bunch of stuff going on, trying to get this subframe prepped for control arms and the like, seems like a never ending cascade of rust and time wasted but I’m steadily made progress and I’m now on a time crunch to get this girl moving again because we’re moving out of this...
Hi Kevin! First off good luck man! For those two front subframe bolts, they come down the two nuts. If you can get those nuts off you shouldn’t need to back them out so that the subframe should drop down. If you will have to back them out. I included a picture of the new one below. The top of...
So another 7 hours of dismantling, or attempted dismantling in the books. Frickin rust I loathe it so much!!
Since I cannot access the lower control arm bolts, I thought I’d just drop the subframe and get it out where I can get better leverage. The ones in the back with the 3 bolts came out...
Another day another set of parts partially in the books… I finally managed to get the spindles removed and moved onto the lower control arm bolts the ones in the sub frame. I’ve already managed to strip the head on the front lower driver side and round out the set of cutting extraction tool...
There are so many things going on it hard to know where to start LOL.
Right now I’m focused on the front suspension. Since she’s a Copart Auction rescue speed, the accident that landed her there was a heavy impact to the front drivers side. Friend I bought it from did most of the initial...
@L337TurboZ thanks, I’m hoping that is the case! Hoping someone can confirm. (Lots of hoping, LOL) I’m reaching out to the yard in AZ in hopes that the floor pan and rockers are still intact. But that makes sense to try and find a decent 6 here…
Sooo as with all things car related, you start with a list of things you want to do like an intake, exhaust, HPFP, COBB Accessport, injectors, etc etc. Then you actually get the car register it and then try to safety check it then realize that:
a) Mazda doesn't rust proof their stuff :mad:
b)...