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Well… cyl 2 has no compression. Not sure why my compression test did not register that but whatever. Car needs an entire new head, one of the valves burnt just like last time. Valves are caked in carbon and crud. Just wanted to give you guys an ending lol. Car is getting a brand new top end...

Will do! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

L337TurboZ said if the timing was off then all cylinders would be misfiring. Also, wouldn’t it have shown signs of incorrect timing long before a cold boost pull 6 months later ? But yes, next time there will be far fewer things I will be willing to cheap out on. Sent from my iPhone using...

And a protractor, yes Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I know not to boost on a cold engine, I was just being reckless :( Yes, I sent the head to the machine shop to get 2 valves replaced and the head resurfaced. Reused head studs because they appeared to be in condition and I did not have any money to spare. My mechanic tried to convince me to...

I just ran a multimeter test for ohms on the OCV, and it came back as 10... that’s higher than the manual states. What does that mean ? Update: solanoid did not move or change to the “wide open” position when connected to positive power. I replaced the solanoid, and put the valve cover back...

I had my mechanic (professional Subaru guy) do that section of the rebuild. I will have to talk to him to verify about the friction washers. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, crank bolt and all other bolts torqued to spec from the online manual. I believe new friction washers came with the gasket set from edge auto sport. If they did come in that set, they were replaced. If not, they were reused. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Alrighty. Plugs are regapped. Codes still persist. The P0302 code is still active and pending, but there is also P2088 code. I was reading about it, you guys are right, definitely not the sensors. So, what is the most likely culprit of P2088? The oil control valve came up as a common problem...

Will do, thanks. Any other maintenance while replacing the camshaft sensor? It’s only a $50 part and autozone has the oem part number in stock and it’s right on top of the block. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I will definitely do so this afternoon, I was just confused on how that could be the problem. Thanks for the explanations, I’ll be picking up a feeler gauge and gapping them once I’m off work Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

When I rebuilt the engine 6 months ago, I replaced the plugs with ngk iridiums from autozone. It has ran perfectly until this issue, which leads me to believe the factory gap from the plugs works just fine. Also, wouldn’t that lead to a random misfire, or a constant misfire on multiple...

They shouldn’t be on the same circuit, the camshaft sensor is located on top of the engine by cylinder 4. The crankshaft sensor is located by the timing chain cover under one of the pulleys Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Order from edge auto sport then? Or is there another auto store I should pickup from ? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mobile mechanic came and did an inspection. Results: camshaft positioning sensor was throwing a code I was unable to see. The misfire code was active, as was the camshaft code. There was also a pending misfire code, telling me that the misfire was intermittent based on the sensor issue...

Okay, I have done a lot of research and posted on multiple forums but I am stuck. Preface: 2007 Stock Mazdaspeed3 with short ram intake. Bought at 108,000 miles from the original owner, currently has 120,000 on the clock. The Head gasket blew and burnt a valve at 112,000 miles. Replaced the...