Alrighty... After a bunch of research and waiting a few days on DHL International; she's fixed and running great again.
TLDR: If you're replacing the Fuel Pressure Sensor on the fuel rail, you need a Bosch 0261545053
The 'Knockoff' Amazon Bosch sensor I had was SKU Bosch 0261545074. This...
Does anyone know the legit Bosch fuel rail pressure sensor that can replace the stock one?
I tried a knockoff brand because my stock sensor was reading zero. Maybe it can only read 70 bar instead of the 140 our car needs?
Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
Spill valve wiring seems to checkout. I'll be doing a deep dive into the wiring harness in the next couple days. I rebuilt and installed the Auto transmission in my Mazda 5 this last weekend. Need a break from cars... Haha
Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
Scratch that the tune I flashed was on old version that didn't have the sensor cal values for the CS MAF sensor...
Flashed again to the correct tune and it ran much better. Attached is a log at idle, then a hold of around 3200 rpms, then 5000ish
Still 0 HPFP Sensor Volts, STFTs are super...
Terminal B (red wire) voltage when running, 9.7
Terminal A (blue wire) voltage when running, 9.0
*** IGNORE: Just reflashed a tune, STFT were in the positive 11s, AFRs were 17+, and smells like a ton of unburnt fuel
Couple of Workshop Manual tests:
No short to ground from Spill Valve Terminal B to PCM 2F
No short to ground from Spill Valve Terminal A to PCM 2G
Key On: Continuity from B to 2F & 2G ; Continuity from A to 2F & 2G.. Same with Key Off
Ohms across the spill valve; 2 ohms key off, .1 to .2...
B+ refers to the voltage before any drops in the system. In the case of a normal passenger car, that's 12 volts.
Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
It's pissing unburnt fuel out the tailpipe at idle now. Plugs aren't fouled, luckily.
I actually added a ground, in addition to the little one in the coil harness. 8awg directly from the stock point on the fender. Using a multimeter, battery positive to HPFP housing, it's reading B+.
Guess it's time to completely rip apart the harness... Thanks for the suggestion
Here's some video:
After first startup:
After a minute, I unplugged the spill valve to see what the AP pressure would show, it dropped down to 38psi, car still ran at idle. Plugged the spill valve back in, and the lowside pressure starting doing this:
TPS and APP were both fluctuating with the three little blips I did during the log.
And I tuned me. Same tune for four years. Hybrid tune based on Cobb OTS.
Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
Car: 2008 Speed3; 3.5" intake, CS turbo back, AT internals, Reyes Wiretuck, AP v3, (Same tune for years), Damond PCV plate with dual CCs. 180 compression all cylinders, last checked 07/10/2020.
Issue: KOEO fuel pressure won't go above 36psi. HPFP pressure won't go above 1060psi after the car is...
I haven't really tried anything else. From the YouTube videos I watched, Ford guys use it to change tire size to correct the speedo, or locking sequences, etc.
It can also datalog every PID an AP can. Not sure useful for most of us, but it's there...
Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
Can confirm, at least for Gen 1s, you can program keys through the PATS programming module in FORSCAN.
I ordered an ECU from here, with my VIN pre-programmed...
Ok cool. I actually have good HPFP pressure, according to my AP, but no HPFP voltage. My car will run fine, anywhere from 10 seconds, to ten minutes, then die. And it won't start again for a few hours. It's been quite annoying.
I have one code, P0091 Fuel Pressure Regulator 1 Control Circuit...
Questions on your troubleshooting phase, as I'm having a nearly identical issue with my 08. Would your engine run at all? Or was it completely dead due to no fuel pressure?
Did you attempt to monitor HPFP voltage from your AP?
Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk