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Idk if I can push that big but probably since even at max low still have room for tire.

245s will be the future tire size if the cars still moving when the tires need replaced lol. Function>Form!

Update: removed secondary lock ring an maxed the larger ring to the maximum possible low height and it sits far far better. I did read a few threads about doing this and they all stated the same thing that there really should be much risk of issue as the main ring can support the weight and...

I’ve read a few more threads with b16 and they’ve all said they aren’t made for scraping your oil pan on the ground. They’re made for bigger tire to fill wheel gap.

Not really no the swift were bigger so idk why it didn’t lower. I’ve looked and looked and have no answer as to why it’s not slammed.

I promise you the spring is installed and in the lowest position. I’ve triple checked.

The wheels fit with no issue ! Wheels specs: 18x8.5 +38 offset Tires: 235-40-18

It’s currently in a shop getting front wheel bearings as I decided I didn’t feel like cussing today lol. I’ll nap one when it’s done!

Yea I can try fronts much harder to see it’s actually quite low lol

Your car looks much higher off the ground but the wheel gap is less. I’m not that high off the ground it’s just a wheel gap issue. The front gap is far far better and may end up needing a raise with the new wheels

I’ve driven a ton and I did have it in the air but I simply removed the Lower control arm bolt from the knuckle on both sides and used a pry bar to pull down. Set both springs in the. Used a pole jack to install. Ensuring all isolators and stuff sat properly. Maybe something’s binding I do know...

So I recently installed a full set of b16 coils on the car and I’m unsure why the height is as high as it is. The car was previously on swift springs and sat lower than it is currently. Attached a video showing proper installation and max low of coil adjuster.

Only tty are going to be the cam bolts and the crank technically. You can reuse the timing bolts and timing cover bolts as all they do is hold the cover. When doing this the bigger more immediate issue is never ever reuse the washers. They’re really not meant to be used twice !

Which is weird. If I loosen it the noise goes away and it runs fine ish. But if I really tighten it down that noise I originally posted comes back … it’s odd

I had a spare. I bought my car with a blown engine. The used engine came with a pump. So I took all my bits out and put them in the used housing. However I believe the noise is only in the hpfp because the prv isn’t maintain the pressure the pump is trying to make lol. I wasted 400 dollars. Yay!

I realized I never posted said pictures but I’ve since installed new cs internals and likely to no one s surprise my issue is not fixed. However it not drives with the same hpfp pressure it had with old internals and I realized the valve on top of the housing it self was the noise if I loosen...

Installed or uninstalled

What do you want pics of lol I lost my data log cable so I gotta get one tomorrow. by piston you mean I likely need new internals … f

As requested. The log is long I forgot I was logging. It will be up shortly

I have a Nokia for just the occasion!