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Alright... tl:dr - did the soak, changed the oil, went on drive, oil light came on, ticking started, car died, brought it home, car turns over, won't start, manual turning of crank had a pretty solid resistance point, resistance point should cyl1 at top of stroke? touching or almost touching...

So I've just refilled the cylinders after the initial soak. Something I did notice, not sure if I should be concerned or not: 1&3 were dry, but 2&4 were wet. when cranking by hand there was a slight clunk at what seemed to be on every full rotation. I did not notice this when I cranked it by...

Posted my locked up S4 for sale over the weekend and spent most of the time getting it sold, but have a little stack of cash now and ready to do this chemsoak. I was reading over some things to make sure I do this right. I didn't see this come up on any posts here, but I did see it on some...

I had it in the garage and started it up to move it out, and came back to this. It's not wet, more like soot. What do you guys think it is? Just crap in the exhaust releasing?

Yeah I’ve got some in the cart. They were real rusty. After the drive they knocked the rust off but they are pulsating pretty bad. Going to drive it again today for probably another 20 miles or so, then move the S4 out of the garage, put the speed in, maybe do the pcv since I already have it...

Ok so I drained it down till the gas light was on, put 7 gallons of 93 in it. Drove it to and from the gas station no issue, let it idle 15minutes no smoke. Went and took it on a 20 mile drive, no issues at all minus definitely needing to replace the brakes or at the very least clean them...

I mean, I would think so, but all the posts talking about alternative options made me think that it doesn’t really work for some reason. If I want to drain it empty it’s about 6 gallons or so. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Jumping it is just doing the same thing as turning the key...

Just to clarify this is the F/PUMP relay not the F/PUMP2 relay? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Went to siphon the gas, of course you can't just siphon it. Pulled ITFP cover and of course its wayyy too small. I somewhat expected that as it's been the case with every car i've pulled that cover on. To avoid cutting to get to ITFP, where can I disconnect the low pressure line from the hpfp...

I appreciate the offer! Do you think I shouldn't use the ChemDip? Lady at autozone said I can return it unopened, so no issues there. I think she'd even take it back opened to be honest. I'm no chemist, but from what I've seen so far it's a similar product, but doesn't evaporate as fast as the...

I'm thinking I'll have better luck talking my way out of an expired tags ticket... lol I'll just tell them I couldn't pass inspection and I replaced some parts and needed to make sure everything got installed correctly - maybe they'll be understanding. Hopefully I won't have to find out.! Do...

Forgive my misunderstanding then... The Overspeed seals are the only seal between injector -> head, and the other set of 4 seals is for injector -> rail. That makes more sense looking at it now... I guess I really paid no attention to the image of the injector before. The goal at the moment is...

Ok Ok Ok you're right! :oops: I don't really want to drive the bad gas out of it because it's unregistered and im still over half a tank. I'll drain the gas, give her half a tank of 91, and drive down the outage roads. Maybe take the highway on the way back. I'm just nervous because 2 weeks...

So I did a compression test with a cap of oil in cylinder 3 and compression went up to around 150. (Increase of 30, and engine was not warm) At 165/165/120/165 what would you guys do? I definitely cannot afford to have it rebuilt right now. And I’m assuming that wet compression test is saying...

Would chem soak get the valve faces? I notice in the write-up they said not needing to fill the cylinder, but valves are at the top? Or is the fluid going to climb up to the valves? I don't see any reason why you couldn't, so could you just fill it so you're sure the valves are exposed to the...

I'll wait to do this until after I get some good gas in it, and do a chem soak, but does anyone know, or have a link to documentation of how I could troubleshoot the cause of the low compression with a leakdown test if it isn't resolved? So far it seems I could test the rings by putting some oil...

I’ve not driven it much since it’s not registered, was trying to get it inspection worthy asap. The gas is still the old gas at the moment, newborn and weather hasn’t permitted much work on the car lately. I just had enough time to squeeze out a compression test yesterday. I did check the...

Do you guys think I have any saving graces here? Had a misfire pop up on cyl3, compression tested and cyl3 was at 120. All others were about 165. Swapped the coil packs on 2&3, but couldn’t get the dtc to pop back up even though it was still misfiring. Couldn’t seem to find a parameter to look...

I'm looking into this PCV valve replacement, seems easy enough but someone did bring up a retaining clip that can get damaged that holds the pcv valve to the oil seperator. Do you know if it is this part by chance? LF01-10-509...

Dang Timing looks like a much bigger job than it was on my B5 S4. I'll read through that a couple more times and see if it's something I want to tackle myself. If I'm troubleshooting the idle smoking anyways, should I just use the PP 5w-40 on this initial oil change? Or do you think it would be...