100k Maintenance

teddygIII

teddygIII

Greenie N00B Member
My speed recently hit 100k miles on it and I have no clue what kind of maintenance was done on the car before I bought it 10k miles ago. I am no experienced mechanic nor do I have the time to scour youtube and inspect the whole car myself so it would be much appreciated if I could get some info on things I should be looking for and fixing so the engine stays sound before I start buying power mods. Pretty much anything along the lines of preventative maintenance just so the engine doesnt blow as this is my only mode of transportation right now.
 
If it were me:
  • Compression test
  • Oil change
  • Replace your PCV Valve and put in an oil catch can between the PCV and your Intake Manifold.
  • Walnut blast your intake valves (carbon buildup)
  • Replace the Fuel Pressure Relief Valve (common failure point)
  • Check out your motor mounts, replace as necessary with Damond Mounts
  • High Pressure Fuel Pump Internals (Autotech or Corksport)
  • Put in new cleaned and flow-tested injectors with Corksport or Overspeed Seals
  • Transmission fluid change
  • Replace worn suspension
PCV and a catch can are great to do right off the bat, and you can easily access them with your intake manifold off while you walnut blast. Injectors, seals, and fuel pump internals are pricey but I think worth it if you plan to do more than keep it stock in the future. Knowing how bad my injectors were after just 20k miles in the motor, it's a safe bet yours look like shit.
index.php


Corksport has great guides for a lot of this stuff, as does Damond Motorsports. There is probably something I am missing but that would be key. Also don't mash the throttle in 5th or 6th gear, and never below 3k RPM since that's a good recipe for bending a rod or sending a piston orbital. You can also get a Cobb Accessport and a Freektune OTS tune (Freektune - Mazdaspeed 3/6 Freek OTS plus map) with or without any mods beyond HPFP internals and that will do you a world of good for reliability long term. But do the maintenance stuff first.
Damond Motorsports
CorkSport #1 In Mazda Performance Parts Since 1998 | Mazda Performance Parts
 
jdab555 said:
If it were me:
  • Compression test
  • Oil change
  • Replace your PCV Valve and put in an oil catch can between the PCV and your Intake Manifold.
  • Walnut blast your intake valves (carbon buildup)
  • Replace the Fuel Pressure Relief Valve (common failure point)
  • Check out your motor mounts, replace as necessary with Damond Mounts
  • High Pressure Fuel Pump Internals (Autotech or Corksport)
  • Put in new cleaned and flow-tested injectors with Corksport or Overspeed Seals
  • Transmission fluid change
  • Replace worn suspension
PCV and a catch can are great to do right off the bat, and you can easily access them with your intake manifold off while you walnut blast. Injectors, seals, and fuel pump internals are pricey but I think worth it if you plan to do more than keep it stock in the future. Knowing how bad my injectors were after just 20k miles in the motor, it's a safe bet yours look like shit.
index.php


Corksport has great guides for a lot of this stuff, as does Damond Motorsports. There is probably something I am missing but that would be key. Also don't mash the throttle in 5th or 6th gear, and never below 3k RPM since that's a good recipe for bending a rod or sending a piston orbital. You can also get a Cobb Accessport and a Freektune OTS tune (Freektune - Mazdaspeed 3/6 Freek OTS plus map) with or without any mods beyond HPFP internals and that will do you a world of good for reliability long term. But do the maintenance stuff first.
Damond Motorsports
CorkSport #1 In Mazda Performance Parts Since 1998 | Mazda Performance Parts
Click to expand...
Thanks so much for the help some of that stuff was already on the list but I'll be sure to check the rest of that off along the way.
 
jdab555 said:
If it were me:
  • Compression test
  • Oil change
  • Replace your PCV Valve and put in an oil catch can between the PCV and your Intake Manifold.
  • Walnut blast your intake valves (carbon buildup)
  • Replace the Fuel Pressure Relief Valve (common failure point)
  • Check out your motor mounts, replace as necessary with Damond Mounts
  • High Pressure Fuel Pump Internals (Autotech or Corksport)
  • Put in new cleaned and flow-tested injectors with Corksport or Overspeed Seals
  • Transmission fluid change
  • Replace worn suspension
PCV and a catch can are great to do right off the bat, and you can easily access them with your intake manifold off while you walnut blast. Injectors, seals, and fuel pump internals are pricey but I think worth it if you plan to do more than keep it stock in the future. Knowing how bad my injectors were after just 20k miles in the motor, it's a safe bet yours look like shit.
index.php


Corksport has great guides for a lot of this stuff, as does Damond Motorsports. There is probably something I am missing but that would be key. Also don't mash the throttle in 5th or 6th gear, and never below 3k RPM since that's a good recipe for bending a rod or sending a piston orbital. You can also get a Cobb Accessport and a Freektune OTS tune (Freektune - Mazdaspeed 3/6 Freek OTS plus map) with or without any mods beyond HPFP internals and that will do you a world of good for reliability long term. But do the maintenance stuff first.
Damond Motorsports
CorkSport #1 In Mazda Performance Parts Since 1998 | Mazda Performance Parts
Click to expand...
I forgot to ask any further questions in my previous reply but I'll put them here

1. where can I get "flow-tested" injectors or should I just get the corksport injector and seal kit
2. would you recommend the damond catch can since im already going to get other stuff from damond
3. what is walnut blasting
4. should i get an oem pcv valve and with that pcv plate from damond as well
5. same as above with the fuel pressure relief valve is oem the only way to go with that

That's all for now sorry for all the questions im still very new to engines and performance and maintenance and all that but i really appreciate your help.
 
Corksport has great guides on their website on product pages for seals, walnut blasting, intake manifold removal, etc. that you can follow. Damond does as well, and of course this forum has a ton if you read through people's build threads and the How-To section Mazdaspeed 3 How-To | Mazdaspeeds.org, The New Era in Mazdaspeed, CX-7 & Ecoboost Forums!

A lot of this depends on how much you want to spend, or if you just want to do the basics, as well as how mechanically inclined you are. Go slow and take your time, read carefully and read multiple sources before you start and you can't go wrong (usually).

1. You can get flow-tested injectors here along with all the seals you need, you will want to get the upgraded injector seals if you are pulling it anyways - you can choose to send your injectors in or send back your cores once you swap. Graveyard is kind of a douchey company, but my injectors were fine and it's a pretty simple process which is why I used them, and they send along a flow-test sheet with the order. Mazdaspeed 3/6 OEM Injector Cleaning – Graveyard Performance

-You can also send your injectors to somewhere like InjectorRX which many have done with good success, and then just get the injector seal kit and Overspeed/Corksport Injector seals. Fuel Injector cleaning service, flow testing and rebuilding, Injector Rx

2. Yeah Damond is great in everything they do - you can do sealed or vented can depending on how you want to run it, vented doesn't hurt if you go for more power in the future and it isn't a huge price premium. Mazdaspeed3 Oil Catch Can Kit Stage 2 | Damond Motorsports

3. How to Clean Your Intake Valves | CorkSport Mazda Performance Blog - Corksport makes a tool for this, but I followed that guide and use those parts every now and then for a quick clean. Prep is the most important to prevent a lot of mess, so spend a good amount of time taping up and getting things sealed before you go to town. I found a massive black trashbag works great.

4. OEM is the safest bet when it comes to PCV, Thermostat, sensors, timing kits, etc. If you have / want to spend the money, you can get the plate too - it isn't necessary with just one catch can however.

5. Yes you can / should only go OEM. I got mine on Ebay for way cheaper than anywhere else and it is mint. You can get it from anywhere though as long as the part number matches (L3K9-13-2J0) Mazda Genuine L3K9-13-2J0 Fuel Distributor Pressure Valve Turbo 2.3L CX7 OEM | eBay
 
jdab555 said:
Corksport has great guides on their website on product pages for seals, walnut blasting, intake manifold removal, etc. that you can follow. Damond does as well, and of course this forum has a ton if you read through people's build threads and the How-To section Mazdaspeed 3 How-To | Mazdaspeeds.org, The New Era in Mazdaspeed, CX-7 & Ecoboost Forums!

A lot of this depends on how much you want to spend, or if you just want to do the basics, as well as how mechanically inclined you are. Go slow and take your time, read carefully and read multiple sources before you start and you can't go wrong (usually).

1. You can get flow-tested injectors here along with all the seals you need, you will want to get the upgraded injector seals if you are pulling it anyways - you can choose to send your injectors in or send back your cores once you swap. Graveyard is kind of a douchey company, but my injectors were fine and it's a pretty simple process which is why I used them, and they send along a flow-test sheet with the order. Mazdaspeed 3/6 OEM Injector Cleaning – Graveyard Performance

-You can also send your injectors to somewhere like InjectorRX which many have done with good success, and then just get the injector seal kit and Overspeed/Corksport Injector seals. Fuel Injector cleaning service, flow testing and rebuilding, Injector Rx

2. Yeah Damond is great in everything they do - you can do sealed or vented can depending on how you want to run it, vented doesn't hurt if you go for more power in the future and it isn't a huge price premium. Mazdaspeed3 Oil Catch Can Kit Stage 2 | Damond Motorsports

3. How to Clean Your Intake Valves | CorkSport Mazda Performance Blog - Corksport makes a tool for this, but I followed that guide and use those parts every now and then for a quick clean. Prep is the most important to prevent a lot of mess, so spend a good amount of time taping up and getting things sealed before you go to town. I found a massive black trashbag works great.

4. OEM is the safest bet when it comes to PCV, Thermostat, sensors, timing kits, etc. If you have / want to spend the money, you can get the plate too - it isn't necessary with just one catch can however.

5. Yes you can / should only go OEM. I got mine on Ebay for way cheaper than anywhere else and it is mint. You can get it from anywhere though as long as the part number matches (L3K9-13-2J0) Mazda Genuine L3K9-13-2J0 Fuel Distributor Pressure Valve Turbo 2.3L CX7 OEM | eBay
Click to expand...
Thanks again for all the help if i have any other questions ill be sure to let you know but this will be a good start along with what my friend is helping me with since hes more experienced with mazdas.
 
Jdab did a great job covering items, I'll add one thing; 100k is that mark I'll always recommend vvt service, at the very least pop that valve cover off and check chain slack at TDC
 
Awafrican said:
Jdab did a great job covering items, I'll add one thing; 100k is that mark I'll always recommend vvt service, at the very least pop that valve cover off and check chain slack at TDC
Click to expand...
VVT has been on the list since i bought the car and ive been checking on it just to be sure its not gonna grenade my engine but it seems to be good for now so theres just other things that are probably more important
 
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