Deldran's Speed 3 Audio build

deldran

deldran

Greenie N00B Member
So I bought a speed 3, and the previous owner didn't do it right so its time to make proper. :)

Below is a List of parts that I will be using. Under each I will try explain why I chose it.

PARTS LIST
Head Unit - Pioneer AVH-2400NEX
I had this in my 6 previously and moved it into the 3. I have always bought pioneer head units so I stuck with it. It is quick and responsive with plenty of audio adjustments if needed, also Apple Car play, and Android Auto capable.

https://www.amazon.com/d/Dash-DVD-V...F8&qid=1547507567&sr=8-1&keywords=AVH-2400NEX

Dash Kit / Wiring Harness - Metra 95-7504 / Metra 70-7903
These are pretty much the standard for the 3. The dash kit fits well and the wiring harness works as advertised.
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Speakers - NVX VSP65 components / NVX NSP68 6x8
The NSP68 speakers are already in all 4 doors. I will be replacing the Fronts with the VSP65 components. As far as why I chose them, I got a good deal on the components on Black Friday, and I have always heard good things about NVX. It seems they may be going out of business or something though because very little of there stuff is in stock anymore.

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Subwoofer - Skar SDR12 Dual 2 Ohm
I have never heard bad things about Skar and this sub fit what I was looking for so I thought I would give it a try. It listen to mostly rock/metal music so tight clean bass is a priority. This will go in a 1.25 cubicfoot custom box. I thought about doing a 500 watt ported sub, but I reconsidered for the tighter control of a sealed box.

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Amplifiers - Dual XPR84D / Skar RP-800.1D
The Dual XPR84D is a budget gem. It hits all of its rated power levels and will give me 80x4 watts at 4 ohm, which matches perfectly with the speakers. The Skar is going to be the sub amp. It will give me 800 watts rms @ 1 ohm which is perfect for the Skar SDR12.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Dual-Ele...h-1-000-Watts-of-Dynamic-Peak-Power/137888849

https://www.amazon.com/Skar-Audio-RP-800-1D-Monoblock-Amplifier/dp/B00TKEKNUO

Box - Zenclosure's Mazda 3 Hatch box
I cannot speak highly enough of these guys. I had a lengthy e-mail correspondence with them about modifications to this box. Once we landed on what I was looking for. I placed the Order Sunday and it will ship Tuesday, even with the customization. I would highly recommend these guys to anyone.

https://www.zenclosures.com/Mazda-3-Hatch-Subwoofer-Box-p/mazda3hatch.htm

The rest is all pretty standard. Twisted pair OFC rca cables. OFC 2 and 4 gauge welding wire for power. As fused distro block. A fuse holder for right next to the battery. Also ordered Regular 3 door sails without a tweeter hole so i can cut them out myself and mount them.

The plan is to get both amps under the front seats, route cables accordingly and get everything working as it should. I will update with pics and such when the install gets started.





 
Class D 4 channel amp? Wat. Is that a new thing? I thought Class D(eznuts) were only for subs.

I had to allow amazon to send cookies to see the pics.
 
neganox said:
Class D 4 channel amp? Wat. Is that a new thing? I thought Class D(eznuts) were only for subs.

I had to allow amazon to send cookies to see the pics.
Click to expand...
Yeah in the last few years they have become a thing and are awesome. Quality is great and lots of power from a little amp.
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Yea that little Dual amp is doing work. Super impressed with it.
@JohnnyTightlips and I did not do a good job of taking pictures when we installed it, but i will try and explain how we ran some of the wires.

The power wires, went from the battery, along the firewall and into the cabin behind the glove box. We had to make the hole a bit bigger for the 2 gauge wire. From there it ran across to the center console. Where the fused distro block lives. I put it there so in the event of a fuse popping its not super hard to get to. Then from that block it goes out the both sides of the center console to the amps under each seat.

Grounds go from the amps, to a bolt in the center console area.

Speaker wires - Getting the wires into the door we did pretty much the same thing that Johnny did in his build. Since we did not have the entire interior out of the car we just ran them as best we could. The rear door wires you can see go from the side panel trim, to under the seat, but to me it was not worth yanking the seats out to hide them. If I ever pull the seats for some other reason I might pull them under the carpet.

I will try and take a pic of the center console area. Its a mess, but non of the wires are getting in the way of anything, and it keeps it all nice and hidden.

As far as sound goes. I do think i can do some more tweaking to get it better but it is very good. Both the sub amp and speaker amp are almost half way on gain. The sub does not overpower the speakers at all, and you can fell all the bass you want. The one odd thing is that you really have to crank the volume on the head unit to start getting the sub to really start working. So like lower volumes the highs and mids are still great but the sub is barely there. I want to work on getting it to be present at all volume levels.

So far I am very happy with it.
 
why not turn the gain up a tad on the monoblock so you have more sub output at lower headunit volume? or, the headunit should have a sub level control in it, turn it up a bit
 
gotovato said:
why not turn the gain up a tad on the monoblock so you have more sub output at lower headunit volume? or, the headunit should have a sub level control in it, turn it up a bit
Click to expand...

Yes, both of those option re available, I just have not messed with it yet.
 
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