Dreaded low compression 1/4

[PanduhMS3]

So I have been hit with the dreaded low compression test.
Cyl 1 - 110
Cyl 2 - 165
Cyl 3 - 180
Cyl 4 - 90

Car is bolt ons tuned by Freek. All original 130k miles, 210k km.
I did notice the car seemed off this year as it gave me a code for VTCS not working properly due to carbon build up. Nothing new this year, last year all I replaced was the Boost control solenoid with a stock one.
Car hasn't needed anything major and has had the same setup for years now.

The car does have an EGR delete, Damond Stg 1 OCC, 3in downpipe, UR catback, Mishi front mount setup, 1 step colder plugs, autotech internels.
Oil changes are done regularly 6months/4k km whichever hits first.

What kinda baffles me is that its not cyl 3. What would everyone's recommendations be for this as she is the daily.
Had the car 7 years so its hard to part ways but we know value would only be in parts now.
Especially in times when finances are hard, whats the best cost effective way?
If its caught early enough would a rebuild be the best route?
2.5 swap it?
2.3t Motors in my area are upwards of 3500+ with 100k
Also I can not do any major work myself, forced to downsize over the years so have next to no tools or space. Will have to pay a mechanic for the work flat out.

Hope I covered most of it,
Much appreciate the time,
Thanks.

Realized after the fact I may have placed this in the wrong section, my apologies.

 

[Cfoldone]

Sorry for your predicament. When my speed 3 had one cylinder go bad, was going to rebuild it completely. So definitely glad you have a realistic expectation of costs ... If you don't want to keep it and wait until times are better $$, space, time. I think a honest sales to someone else might be your way out. Nothing is cheaper in the future so selling now vs you wait a year and find still nothing going forward to repair it, is lost money.

Forgot to say !!! Hello and welcome to the forum!!
Now if you can find a good honest mechanic and just do a cheap bottle hone and re-ring, it could be done. Of course then it's what's next that breaks. Just the cheap route to getting back on road is still means all the essentials to tear down and reassemble too.
You are at a crossroads on keeping and $$ or selling and getting something with those monies now.

 

[Awafrican]

the only reason I can figure 2.5 swap is so that you can be on the road while building as 2.3.

engines arent cheap so the question becomes do you want to put one in knowing the cost with a decent mechanic or sell it as a rolling shell

 

[Enki]

You've done well to keep it stock as long as possible. If you drop a bit of oil into the plug hole for cyl 4, does the compression come back up?

Also, leakdown is a WAY better test than compression, which can read low for bullshit reasons. Maybe start with that.

 

[PanduhMS3]

You've done well to keep it stock as long as possible. If you drop a bit of oil into the plug hole for cyl 4, does the compression come back up?

Also, leakdown is a WAY better test than compression, which can read low for bullshit reasons. Maybe start with that.

I'm gonna troubleshoot and look at a few more things before I jump the gun.

Car wasn't hot nor cold when they did the compression test. It was warm at most cause the shops maybe 10 mins from my house.

They said the plugs when pulled on cyl 1,2,4 looked like new and they're about 3 years old. Cyl 3 plug was black as can be.
Also I am burning next to no oil. Dipstick readings have never been low.
It did throw a new code P0091 for Fuel Pressure Regulator 1 Control Circuit Low.
The code for the VTCS failing to open has cleared and not returned either.

 

[Enki]

If you're getting issues with ITFP not working well enough to keep the HPFP fed, maybe you should consider at least swapping the sock filter on the ITFP. Not sure if you have easy access to the pump basket, but it's worth taking a look at if you can.