Dualspeeds Daily Driver One Step Below Autocross Build

DualSpeed

DualSpeed

Greenie N00B Member
Greenie Member
So I'm starting my build. Actually I've been working on it for a little over a month now. Parts are slowly coming in, Covid had added time to that. The car I'm starting with is an 06 Speed 6 gt, 225 000 km (135 000 miles). The car is still pretty tight for year and mileage. I traced the history on it, and it seems like it wasn't abused too badly....
It had a worn out KO4 when I bought it, looked at every option, but in the end I just bought a low mileage stocker so I could drive it. It already had a CS CAI, I've installed a catless downpipe, put in the NGK 6510 plugs, timing chain, guilds, and VVT were done. Also fixed the trans shifter shaft seal leak.
I'll continue to pick away on it. I don't want to make crazy power with the car. I want a DD with great handling, that would also be a fun track day car.
I bought all the manuals for the car, but I'm hoping to rely on the vast amounts of experience and knowledge here! I've already experienced what this site has to offer in the comments, and knowledge based forums.
I'm looking forward to the fun ride!
 
Last edited:
Sorry, I guess that was misleading. It's more a street car, than a autocross car. It's actually your car that gave me the inspiration. I really liked what you were able to do with your car.
 
I also forgot to list that the Autotech HPFP was added, and an oil catch can. The front O2 is not responding, so a new one should be here Monday. Next on the list is clean injectors, and throttle body. Oh, and also restoring the headlights.
 
Ya, I guess! That's cheap, thanks!! I'm almost done with them now, but if they don't turn out good, I'll definitely order those.
 
I've also got in contact with the Russian polyurethane bushings company, so that project will be sometime in the next months.
 
@phate I was following that suspension thread of yours. I've been a mechanic for 30 years, but some of those formulas and equations that you were talking about, I'll admit I got kind of lost. I'm hoping that you might be able to help me through some of that?
 

Attachments

  • 20200630_161641.jpg
    20200630_161641.jpg
    1.7 MB · Views: 22
DualSpeed said:
@phate I was following that suspension thread of yours. I've been a mechanic for 30 years, but some of those formulas and equations that you were talking about, I'll admit I got kind of lost. I'm hoping that you might be able to help me through some of that?
Click to expand...

Yep, just let me know what you're going for and we can work through it.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 
So the plan for the car is 320-330 hp on 94 octane, or what they recommend. PD tuning will be doing the tune. AP V3 will be here on Tuesday. What do you guys recommend for rear diff mounts, engine/trans mounts for this type of build?
 
DualSpeed said:
So the plan for the car is 320-330 hp on 94 octane, or what they recommend. PD tuning will be doing the tune. AP V3 will be here on Tuesday. What do you guys recommend for rear diff mounts, engine/trans mounts for this type of build?
Click to expand...
If DD and and not wanting it to sound like a vibrator 24/7 I would recommend the Damond TMM and RMM, leave the PMM stock.
 
JohnnyTightlips said:
If DD and and not wanting it to sound like a vibrator 24/7 I would recommend the Damond TMM and RMM, leave the PMM stock.
Click to expand...
Really, the PMM is the one that causes the issue. I guess, these aren't the smoothest running engines in the world. Lol
 
With a balanced Forged Internals build are they better? Get rid of the balance shafts. I work on 18 cyl 3700 hp Cummins engines, those things shake like crazy!!
 
I have a full balanced built motor and the PMM is still super loud and makes it sound like the motor is riding shotgun.I ended up going back to OEM for it and the car is much more enjoyable for DD and I can hear my music and kids again. With the RMM and TMM it is still a fun ripper and does not bounce around all over.
 
JohnnyTightlips said:
I have a full balanced built motor and the PMM is still super loud and makes it sound like the motor is riding shotgun.I ended up going back to OEM for it and the car is much more enjoyable for DD and I can hear my music and kids again. With the RMM and TMM it is still a fun ripper and does not bounce around all over.
Click to expand...
Nice, thanks for the feedback!
 
I guess I'll ask the question about the rear diff mounts. I've noticed that there is many companies that make a rear diff mount, only a few make the front diff mount (Sure Motorsports), which looks like the Turbine Tech mount from years ago. I can see the benefit of both for drag racing, but for a road course/autocross type car would it be the answer?
 
phate said:
Yep, just let me know what you're going for and we can work through it.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
@phate So after I change out the rubber for the poly bushings, should I be getting the adjustable ball joints in the front? Also the adjustable upper arms on the rear? I'm also a subscriber to flat steer, I had a BMW X5M and it reacted like that. Those have electric motors on the front swaybar, and it torqued the swaybar the more you pushed it. That vehicle is gone, but something like that is the goal.
 
Last edited:
Balancing the internal components of the motor has nothing to do with the inherent harmonic imbalance of an inline four cylinder.
 
DualSpeed said:
I guess I'll ask the question about the rear diff mounts. I've noticed that there is many companies that make a rear diff mount, only a few make the front diff mount (Sure Motorsports), which looks like the Turbine Tech mount from years ago. I can see the benefit of both for drag racing, but for a road course/autocross type car would it be the answer?
Click to expand...

Highly recommend both. If you can find a turbine tech style front mount, get it - the extra mount points prevent the 2 main bolts from breaking the case. You smack the throttle on and off more often in autocross than you do on a strip.

DualSpeed said:
phate So after I change out the rubber for the poly bushings, should I be getting the adjustable ball joints in the front? Also the adjustable upper arms on the rear? I'm also a subscriber to flat steer, I had a BMW X5M and it reacted like that. Those have electric motors on the front swaybar, and it torqued the swaybar the more you pushed it. That vehicle is gone, but something like that is the goal.
Click to expand...

Adjustable ball joints in the front - yes. There's no other camber adjustment available.


For the rear, you have camber adjustment on the LCA via an eccentric bolt, and it's good for a little bit of camber. Once you get into the realm of 3°+ of camber, you need adjustable uppers back there. I wouldn't get them until you run out of adjustment on the LCA.


Suspension compliance is a good thing. Letting the suspension work while controlling camber loss is forever the goal. Just remember that the stiffer the ride, the more load variation the tire sees - tires hate sudden load changes and it reduces grip...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top