Alright kids, buckle up.
-What is a WotBox?
Well a WotBox is a handy little thing. It intercepts your ignition (coils in this case), and using a bunch of computer mumbo jumbo and information from the other inputs it receives, interrupts that and in doing so, causes raw fuel to be deposited into the hot exhaust and spooling your turbo. This method has been said to be better than the fuel cut Cobb uses, as fuel cut can cause some pretty gnarly problems like washing cylinder walls and other things of that nature. Plus, you get some pretty fucking sick fireballs and noises from this thing. Wanna know the cool part? I don't even know if anything I just typed was at all accurate, but I think it was!
One thing I do know is this is mainly used with people running some kind of auxillary fuel injection. This method allows the extra fuel from the PI to NOT be cut during a WOT and 'flat foot shift' scenario, if it was cut using a fuel cut, you would lean out from lack of fuel in the top end and have a HIGH chance of ZZB. In essence, you don't lean out during a pull while using port injection.
(Watch the video at the end, Nishan is awesome at explaining this better. Plus he's better looking)
I know many people have trouble finding instructions for a WotBox, especially specific to a GenPu. Well, the instructions have been in front of your face the whole time. I know, I know, the wire colors are different between generations... But the pin outs are exactly the same. So, here we go. I will be mainly focusing on the wiring portion, so some experience ripping apart your glovebox is needed. This guide is using a 2011 Mazdaspeed 3 Tech Package. My ECU is mounted to the fusebox cover.
Please also reference this SC from N2MBs site incase you get confused comparing my guide/wire colors to the ones they use in their guide:
WHAT YOU NEED:
-Experience reading wiring/pinout diagrams
-Soldering iron, flux (preferred method for a few connections)
-Heat shrink
-Wire cutters and strippers (the 'auto' strippers work the best here)
-Conduit (wire loom cover)
-Drill with a bit a little bigger than the loom of the WotBox
-Zip ties and misc shit that you think you may need
-The knowledge that you can very easily make more issues for yourself if you are not careful. You are fucking with the crank position signal wire, and it's like the thickness of a human hair... No exaggeration.
-Firs things first, unhook your battery so that's not a factor in possibly burning something out. Next, find out where you wanna put it.
Recommended placement is in the glovebox (no pictures right now, sorry.) Punch out the backdoor of that thing and throw it away. You most likely won't need it again.
-Next step involves that drill. You will se a big ass white plastic plug in the firewall (in the same location the wiring loom would be in a GenJuan). Drill a hole through that thing, make sure you're wearing safety glass n shit because I don't want you crying to me that something went wrong and you now wear an eyepatch.
-Run every wire except the BLACK wire through the hole, and into the bay. It helps if you take a coathanger and tape the ends of the wire to it and put that through the hole, trust me.
-Grab that bitch. pull as much as you can without pulling the connector too far out of the glovebox. Give yourself plenty of slack just so you know how much wire you're working with. Picture of how I routed mine.
THE ABOVE STEP DEPENDS ON THE PLACEMENT AND LOCATION OF YOUR ECU, BUT IT SHOULD ALL GENERALLY BE IN THE SAME AREA. HENCE WHY I TOLD YOU TO GET ALLLLLL THE SLACK POSSIBLE.
-Now it's time to start really getting into it. You should have 5 wires in the engine bay with you. Yellow, blue, and green are all going to the ECU. The ORANGE and RED will go to the other connector on the valve cover (pictured below)
-Yellow is going to the crankshaft position wire, the single most dangerous wire in this install. It is a SUPER tiny gauge wire, PLEASE BE GENTLE WHEN STRIPPING IT. You need to strip back like, 1/8th of an inch of the insulation. It should be a tiny white(?) wire. If you are looking at the connector from the BACK, it will be in the 3rd row from the top, and the 6th one from the RIGHT. The way I connected the yellow wire is then where you stripped it back, make a sort of hole between the inside wire strands (tbh you're making a vagina in the center of the strands). Take the yellow lead, and put it through the hole, wrap, and tape it. If you are good at soldering, you can probably put a dab on the connection to make it solid, I did NOT do this. I actually REALLY fucked up mine and it's a long story, but just be careful. I forgot to mention this will be on the LEFT SIDE MAIN CONNECTOR. Left side connector (looking from back of the connector) is connector 2 (or B according to N2mb) and the RIGHT HAND SIDE is connector 1 (or A on N2MBs instructions)
-Next is green. This is for your clutch pedal position, so it knows clutch pedal voltage. This one is easy, its on the RIght hand side connector, in the very BOTTOM RIGHT CORNER. Do the same method of connection as stated for the CKP, or do your own thing. I'm not forcing you to do anything.
-Now for the blue, which is accelerator pedal. This is on the same connector as the CPP. It will be in the FIRST ROW, SEVENTH WIRE FROM THE RIGHT. Again, same connection method or your own thing. You're independent. Don't let anybody tell you how to live your life.
-Now for coil pack power. Find this connector on your valve cover and just stare at it, take it all in. You're looking for that one where the tip of my sausage finger is hovering over, with the red wire guides:
Now looking at it from the back of it, while still plugged in, you want the wire that is on the VERY BOTTOM ROW, SECOND FROM THE RIGHT. Now you may have to peel back some of the loom, you need some slack for this one. Now, you're gonna SNIP the wire completely in half, leaving about an inch and a half hanging off of the connector. You are essentially intercepting the spark signal for the WotBox's own dirty desires. Take that ORANGE wire from the WotBox harness and SOLDER it to the part of the wire that IS STILL IN THE CONNECTOR. the RED WIRE will be going to the OTHER piece of the wire that is going back into the main portion of the loom. Half ass picture attached.
Now, most of everything is now done. Button up everything and verify that all your connections are how you want them, your stuff looks nice and pretty, just look everything over. Make sure you didn't forget anything.
-Back inside of the car, you have a single black wire left. This is simply a ground, and depending on where you put everything, can go wherever you think is a good enough ground. N2MB recommends this place
(Picture taken from their install instructions, and is a GenJuan car. GenPu location may very, I did not ground mine here)
Now put the glovebox back together and clean up the mess you made, even the shit you took in your pants while you fucked with all of that ECU wiring... I know, it's stressful. Put some double sided tape on the bottom of the module, and plug it in. The car WILL NOT START unless this is connected to the WotBox.
Now begins programming. N2MB has a great guide on the site, and Nishan made a FANTASTIC YT video on how to do it. Here is the link: He goes very in depth, and even explains why aux fuel cars need to use the FFS feature that the WotBox includes. I will not get into programming, but I will tell you to go to Best Buy and get the Insignia USB to Serial RS232 adapter: https://www.bestbuy.com/site/insignia-1-3-usb-to-rs-232-db9-pda-serial-adapter-cable-black/5883029.p?skuId=588302
The one N2MB includes did NOT work for me at all, and this one worked instantly when I plugged it in. I know a lot of people have had this happen, so I would rather you be prepared.
Closing statement:
I AM IN NO WAY RESPONSIBLE FOR WHAT HAPPENS WHEN MODIFYING YOUR VEHICLE, INCLUDING INSTALLING THIS MODIFICATION. I AM NOT A LICENSED MECHANIC, JUST A DUDE WHO LIKES TAKING DICK AND WORKING ON CARS. PLEASE DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK KNOWING YOU CAN POTENTIALLY DAMAGE YOUR VEHICLE'S COMPUTER OR MORE. AGAIN, I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR WHAT HAPPENS DURING THIS INSTALL.
****PLEASE VERIFY THE PINOUTS PROVIDED BY N2MB BEFORE CUTTING ANYTHING. I AM GOING OFF OF MEMORY AND PICTURES I TOOK. I CAN ALWAYS UPDATE SOMETHING BUT I AM 99% SURE THIS GUIDE IS CORRECT.**************************
PLEASE INFORM ME IF I AM MISSING ANY KIND OF INFORMATION AND I WILL ADD IT. I THINK I GOT ALL OF IT.
-What is a WotBox?
Well a WotBox is a handy little thing. It intercepts your ignition (coils in this case), and using a bunch of computer mumbo jumbo and information from the other inputs it receives, interrupts that and in doing so, causes raw fuel to be deposited into the hot exhaust and spooling your turbo. This method has been said to be better than the fuel cut Cobb uses, as fuel cut can cause some pretty gnarly problems like washing cylinder walls and other things of that nature. Plus, you get some pretty fucking sick fireballs and noises from this thing. Wanna know the cool part? I don't even know if anything I just typed was at all accurate, but I think it was!
One thing I do know is this is mainly used with people running some kind of auxillary fuel injection. This method allows the extra fuel from the PI to NOT be cut during a WOT and 'flat foot shift' scenario, if it was cut using a fuel cut, you would lean out from lack of fuel in the top end and have a HIGH chance of ZZB. In essence, you don't lean out during a pull while using port injection.
(Watch the video at the end, Nishan is awesome at explaining this better. Plus he's better looking)
I know many people have trouble finding instructions for a WotBox, especially specific to a GenPu. Well, the instructions have been in front of your face the whole time. I know, I know, the wire colors are different between generations... But the pin outs are exactly the same. So, here we go. I will be mainly focusing on the wiring portion, so some experience ripping apart your glovebox is needed. This guide is using a 2011 Mazdaspeed 3 Tech Package. My ECU is mounted to the fusebox cover.
Please also reference this SC from N2MBs site incase you get confused comparing my guide/wire colors to the ones they use in their guide:
WHAT YOU NEED:
-Experience reading wiring/pinout diagrams
-Soldering iron, flux (preferred method for a few connections)
-Heat shrink
-Wire cutters and strippers (the 'auto' strippers work the best here)
-Conduit (wire loom cover)
-Drill with a bit a little bigger than the loom of the WotBox
-Zip ties and misc shit that you think you may need
-The knowledge that you can very easily make more issues for yourself if you are not careful. You are fucking with the crank position signal wire, and it's like the thickness of a human hair... No exaggeration.
-Firs things first, unhook your battery so that's not a factor in possibly burning something out. Next, find out where you wanna put it.
Recommended placement is in the glovebox (no pictures right now, sorry.) Punch out the backdoor of that thing and throw it away. You most likely won't need it again.
-Next step involves that drill. You will se a big ass white plastic plug in the firewall (in the same location the wiring loom would be in a GenJuan). Drill a hole through that thing, make sure you're wearing safety glass n shit because I don't want you crying to me that something went wrong and you now wear an eyepatch.
-Run every wire except the BLACK wire through the hole, and into the bay. It helps if you take a coathanger and tape the ends of the wire to it and put that through the hole, trust me.
-Grab that bitch. pull as much as you can without pulling the connector too far out of the glovebox. Give yourself plenty of slack just so you know how much wire you're working with. Picture of how I routed mine.
THE ABOVE STEP DEPENDS ON THE PLACEMENT AND LOCATION OF YOUR ECU, BUT IT SHOULD ALL GENERALLY BE IN THE SAME AREA. HENCE WHY I TOLD YOU TO GET ALLLLLL THE SLACK POSSIBLE.
-Now it's time to start really getting into it. You should have 5 wires in the engine bay with you. Yellow, blue, and green are all going to the ECU. The ORANGE and RED will go to the other connector on the valve cover (pictured below)
-Yellow is going to the crankshaft position wire, the single most dangerous wire in this install. It is a SUPER tiny gauge wire, PLEASE BE GENTLE WHEN STRIPPING IT. You need to strip back like, 1/8th of an inch of the insulation. It should be a tiny white(?) wire. If you are looking at the connector from the BACK, it will be in the 3rd row from the top, and the 6th one from the RIGHT. The way I connected the yellow wire is then where you stripped it back, make a sort of hole between the inside wire strands (tbh you're making a vagina in the center of the strands). Take the yellow lead, and put it through the hole, wrap, and tape it. If you are good at soldering, you can probably put a dab on the connection to make it solid, I did NOT do this. I actually REALLY fucked up mine and it's a long story, but just be careful. I forgot to mention this will be on the LEFT SIDE MAIN CONNECTOR. Left side connector (looking from back of the connector) is connector 2 (or B according to N2mb) and the RIGHT HAND SIDE is connector 1 (or A on N2MBs instructions)
-Next is green. This is for your clutch pedal position, so it knows clutch pedal voltage. This one is easy, its on the RIght hand side connector, in the very BOTTOM RIGHT CORNER. Do the same method of connection as stated for the CKP, or do your own thing. I'm not forcing you to do anything.
-Now for the blue, which is accelerator pedal. This is on the same connector as the CPP. It will be in the FIRST ROW, SEVENTH WIRE FROM THE RIGHT. Again, same connection method or your own thing. You're independent. Don't let anybody tell you how to live your life.
-Now for coil pack power. Find this connector on your valve cover and just stare at it, take it all in. You're looking for that one where the tip of my sausage finger is hovering over, with the red wire guides:
Now looking at it from the back of it, while still plugged in, you want the wire that is on the VERY BOTTOM ROW, SECOND FROM THE RIGHT. Now you may have to peel back some of the loom, you need some slack for this one. Now, you're gonna SNIP the wire completely in half, leaving about an inch and a half hanging off of the connector. You are essentially intercepting the spark signal for the WotBox's own dirty desires. Take that ORANGE wire from the WotBox harness and SOLDER it to the part of the wire that IS STILL IN THE CONNECTOR. the RED WIRE will be going to the OTHER piece of the wire that is going back into the main portion of the loom. Half ass picture attached.
Now, most of everything is now done. Button up everything and verify that all your connections are how you want them, your stuff looks nice and pretty, just look everything over. Make sure you didn't forget anything.
-Back inside of the car, you have a single black wire left. This is simply a ground, and depending on where you put everything, can go wherever you think is a good enough ground. N2MB recommends this place
(Picture taken from their install instructions, and is a GenJuan car. GenPu location may very, I did not ground mine here)
Now put the glovebox back together and clean up the mess you made, even the shit you took in your pants while you fucked with all of that ECU wiring... I know, it's stressful. Put some double sided tape on the bottom of the module, and plug it in. The car WILL NOT START unless this is connected to the WotBox.
Now begins programming. N2MB has a great guide on the site, and Nishan made a FANTASTIC YT video on how to do it. Here is the link: He goes very in depth, and even explains why aux fuel cars need to use the FFS feature that the WotBox includes. I will not get into programming, but I will tell you to go to Best Buy and get the Insignia USB to Serial RS232 adapter: https://www.bestbuy.com/site/insignia-1-3-usb-to-rs-232-db9-pda-serial-adapter-cable-black/5883029.p?skuId=588302
The one N2MB includes did NOT work for me at all, and this one worked instantly when I plugged it in. I know a lot of people have had this happen, so I would rather you be prepared.
Closing statement:
I AM IN NO WAY RESPONSIBLE FOR WHAT HAPPENS WHEN MODIFYING YOUR VEHICLE, INCLUDING INSTALLING THIS MODIFICATION. I AM NOT A LICENSED MECHANIC, JUST A DUDE WHO LIKES TAKING DICK AND WORKING ON CARS. PLEASE DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK KNOWING YOU CAN POTENTIALLY DAMAGE YOUR VEHICLE'S COMPUTER OR MORE. AGAIN, I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR WHAT HAPPENS DURING THIS INSTALL.
****PLEASE VERIFY THE PINOUTS PROVIDED BY N2MB BEFORE CUTTING ANYTHING. I AM GOING OFF OF MEMORY AND PICTURES I TOOK. I CAN ALWAYS UPDATE SOMETHING BUT I AM 99% SURE THIS GUIDE IS CORRECT.**************************
PLEASE INFORM ME IF I AM MISSING ANY KIND OF INFORMATION AND I WILL ADD IT. I THINK I GOT ALL OF IT.
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