Help diagnosing

Abeab125

Greenie N00B Member
Hello everyone new to the forums and the mazdaspeed life, I apologize if this has already been solved in another thread but I couldn't find it. I bought my speed a few weeks ago with Cobb intake, fuel pump internals, upgraded intercooler and turbo smart BOV. Yesterday I installed a Cobb turbo inlet pipe and Damond turbo oil restrictor bolt, car drove great before and after I took it for a short drive. About 15 minutes in the car shuddered and died, turns over but will not start. It threw P2128, p2088, p2101, p0091 even after clearing codes. I checked all the grounds and battery terminals and everything seems to be in order. If I cant figure it out this weekend I'll get it towed to a shop but would prefer to do it myself. Thanks in advance for the help
 
Hello everyone new to the forums and the mazdaspeed life, I apologize if this has already been solved in another thread but I couldn't find it. I bought my speed a few weeks ago with Cobb intake, fuel pump internals, upgraded intercooler and turbo smart BOV. Yesterday I installed a Cobb turbo inlet pipe and Damond turbo oil restrictor bolt, car drove great before and after I took it for a short drive. About 15 minutes in the car shuddered and died, turns over but will not start. It threw P2128, p2088, p2101, p0091 even after clearing codes. I checked all the grounds and battery terminals and everything seems to be in order. If I cant figure it out this weekend I'll get it towed to a shop but would prefer to do it myself. Thanks in advance for the help

Sounds like your main harness for the ECU is loose or damaged. The lever clips lock it in place and if it’s not locked they can vibrate loose. That’s too many codes in 3 totally different electrical systems.

Also worth mentioning that you CAN ground out the ECU and fry it if you make contact on metal and the battery is still connected.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Sounds like your main harness for the ECU is loose or damaged. The lever clips lock it in place and if it’s not locked they can vibrate loose. That’s too many codes in 3 totally different electrical systems.

Also worth mentioning that you CAN ground out the ECU and fry it if you make contact on metal and the battery is still connected.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The car is missing a clip one of the connectors, but even after making sure it's all the way in the car still won't start and the codes persist. I doubt the ecu is fried I'm always extremely careful when removing batteries and the car ran great for about 30 minutes before it shut off. I appreciate the advice
 
Back
Top