High coolant temperature

RedSpeed3

RedSpeed3

Greenie N00B Member
Greenie Member
I have a 2013 Mazdaspeed 3 and it has HPFP, stage 2 Corksport power series intake, Corksport turbo inlet pipe and Corksport top mount intercooler. I recently put on an open mouth grill and after that I noticed on my AP that my coolant temperature rises about 200 and stays between 200-214. What’s also weird is that when I’m driving and I give it gas the temperature goes up and then when I let loose of the throttle it goes down. I changed thermostat, both engine temperature sensors and new coolant fully bled out. So now I’m not sure what it can be.
 
Fans don't trigger until like 217°, so you're within normal operating temperature. If you can find one on the used market, an sp63 auxiliary fan controller will allow you to adjust the fan on/off points. Or if you run VersaTune, there's also a table to adjust the fan trigger temperature.
 
SharksInSpace said:
Fans don't trigger until like 217°, so you're within normal operating temperature. If you can find one on the used market, an sp63 auxiliary fan controller will allow you to adjust the fan on/off points. Or if you run VersaTune, there's also a table to adjust the fan trigger temperature.
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Thanks for the reply bro! I’ll look into that for sure. But I’m just worried that if there’s something wrong now. I find it so weird that before I took off the bumper and put the open mouth grill, the reading on my accessport for my coolant temp was always between 180-190 especially when I was driving and giving it gas it’d go down lower and now even at night with 50-60 degree weather it stays above 200 degrees no matter what. Like i said I changed the two engine temp sensors, the thermostat, and also the water pump. Then put new coolant and bled the system a few times too and it’s still doing the same.
 
Welcome to getting rid of grille that forces the air through the rad, with all that open mouth it doesn't have the stock ducting to force the sir into the rad and it can escape around it, my money is this is what is affecting you.

Mock up some ducting with cardboard see how that lowers temps then go back and to it with some sheet metal, you can put some rubber trim on the edges so it doesn't run through anything (after you've still smoother the cuts) .

Also being in the throttle adding fuel allowing for more heat of course added to engineering temperature. That's why people send Kris of money designing race cars to be able to handle temps and others take cool down laps on their street cars.
 
Awafrican said:
Welcome to getting rid of grille that forces the air through the rad, with all that open mouth it doesn't have the stock ducting to force the sir into the rad and it can escape around it, my money is this is what is affecting you.

Mock up some ducting with cardboard see how that lowers temps then go back and to it with some sheet metal, you can put some rubber trim on the edges so it doesn't run through anything (after you've still smoother the cuts) .

Also being in the throttle adding fuel allowing for more heat of course added to engineering temperature. That's why people send Kris of money designing race cars to be able to handle temps and others take cool down laps on their street cars.
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Thanks for the replies guys I appreciate it! Makes so much sense, I’ll definitely try to mock up some ducting with cardboard to see if there’s a difference if not I’ll have to go back to the stock grill!
 
Mocking up some ducting as proof of concept to verify it is the cause would be beneficial, but even if it does prove to be true I honestly wouldn't worry about swapping it back to oem just due to the temps. You're totally fine operating at 200-215, within standard parameters. If you are set on dropping ECT back down, though, I believe @KiwiFlavor has an uninstalled sp63 controller that he could be convinced to part with.
 
Easter Bunny said:
Stop being a pussy, spend the two days fixing dumb shit on your car and have fun.
Pussy
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Be nice. That being said I agree he should fix his car.

Let's not derail this thread with trying to convince him to fix it, he has his own build thread for that.
 
Easter Bunny said:
Stop being a pussy, spend the two days fixing dumb shit on your car and have fun.
Pussy
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tenor.gif
 
SharksInSpace said:
Mocking up some ducting as proof of concept to verify it is the cause would be beneficial, but even if it does prove to be true I honestly wouldn't worry about swapping it back to oem just due to the temps. You're totally fine operating at 200-215, within standard parameters. If you are set on dropping ECT back down, though, I believe @KiwiFlavor has an uninstalled sp63 controller that he could be convinced to part with.
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So I covered the two side openings of the grill through the back with thin pieces of sheet metal and put a strip of it down the middle of the bigger opening. It really made a difference, the temps never went past 200 unless I was in traffic. So thanks for the help guys!
 
RedSpeed3 said:
So I covered the two side openings of the grill through the back with thin pieces of sheet metal and put a strip of it down the middle of the bigger opening. It really made a difference, the temps never went past 200 unless I was in traffic. So thanks for the help guys!
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Sweet! Glad it helped
 
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