This thread was originally created by @SJP0tato on MSF back in September of 2014.
On my rear driver's window a few weeks ago, when fully rolled up rather than stopping it started making a loud/obnoxious grinding noise. Then during operation it'd make grinding/clicking noises too.
Here's a quick example:
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1410222832
Based on the info from this thread: Another window isssue
I ordered a couple replacement gears from here: power windows repair parts - mazda 3,5,6,cx7,cx9,rx8 from 2003-2012 8.00 USD
They shipped super quick, like within 2 days or so.
That Link is dead, but it looks like Amazon carries them now: https://www.amazon.com/Mazda-Front-P.../dp/B00VYTDD3C
rear door:
First screw is behind the trim panel:
2nd & 3rd screws are behind this trim piece you have to pry off the handle:
After that it's a lot of pulling around the bottom/sides of the panel to disengage the trim clip things. If you're a pro you probably have a puller tool of some kind. For the remaining 99% of us, just remove them from the door once the panel is off & slide them back into the panel. Before you can fully remove the panel, you have to unhook this connector:
Here's the motor installed in the door:
I was a little worried about this part, as none of the write-ups I could find really mentioned how the motor attaches to the glass. Turns out it's just a gear that stays in the door, and the motor engages it. So there's nothing to worry about pulling the motor away:
Upclose pic of the motor (don't bother with this side, it looks like the seal will come off, but it won't):
This is the side of the housing you're going to remove:
It takes some finagling, but eventually the piece should pry loose:
With everything separated:
You can see why the grinding was happening:
The top piece slides right off:
And this rubber dampener piece comes right off too:
New vs old:
Check the drive gear & housing, mine had several of the teeth jammed up against the housing. I wouldn't doubt this contributed to things binding up:
After dropping the gear stuff back in, and snapping the case together it's straightforward how everything goes back onto the door. All in all going slow and taking pictures this took me about 45 minutes. Super easy job that anyone with a screwdriver and maybe a 10mm to help snug up the motor screws/bolts when you're done.
On my rear driver's window a few weeks ago, when fully rolled up rather than stopping it started making a loud/obnoxious grinding noise. Then during operation it'd make grinding/clicking noises too.
Here's a quick example:
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1410222832
Based on the info from this thread: Another window isssue
I ordered a couple replacement gears from here: power windows repair parts - mazda 3,5,6,cx7,cx9,rx8 from 2003-2012 8.00 USD
They shipped super quick, like within 2 days or so.
That Link is dead, but it looks like Amazon carries them now: https://www.amazon.com/Mazda-Front-P.../dp/B00VYTDD3C
rear door:
First screw is behind the trim panel:
2nd & 3rd screws are behind this trim piece you have to pry off the handle:
After that it's a lot of pulling around the bottom/sides of the panel to disengage the trim clip things. If you're a pro you probably have a puller tool of some kind. For the remaining 99% of us, just remove them from the door once the panel is off & slide them back into the panel. Before you can fully remove the panel, you have to unhook this connector:
Here's the motor installed in the door:
I was a little worried about this part, as none of the write-ups I could find really mentioned how the motor attaches to the glass. Turns out it's just a gear that stays in the door, and the motor engages it. So there's nothing to worry about pulling the motor away:
Upclose pic of the motor (don't bother with this side, it looks like the seal will come off, but it won't):
This is the side of the housing you're going to remove:
It takes some finagling, but eventually the piece should pry loose:
With everything separated:
You can see why the grinding was happening:
The top piece slides right off:
And this rubber dampener piece comes right off too:
New vs old:
Check the drive gear & housing, mine had several of the teeth jammed up against the housing. I wouldn't doubt this contributed to things binding up:
After dropping the gear stuff back in, and snapping the case together it's straightforward how everything goes back onto the door. All in all going slow and taking pictures this took me about 45 minutes. Super easy job that anyone with a screwdriver and maybe a 10mm to help snug up the motor screws/bolts when you're done.
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