How-To Replace Clutch MS6

Vansquish

Greenie N00B Member
Greenie Member
This thread was originally created by @Axel907 on MSF back in February of 2014.

This is my first clutch job so lets see how it goes.

Pretty much every bolt you remove is gonna be either a 8, 10, 12, 14, 17, or 19 MM.
So make sure to have those in wrenches and sockets.

First off remove your intercooler, battery, and TIP. If you cant figure that one out take your car to a shop.

Remove the shift cables by simply popping them off with a screw driver.
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Pull these four bolts to get the shifter cables out of the way.
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Now remove this bracket.
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Unplug all 5 of these connectors.
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Unbolt and remove this bracket.
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Pull this bolt. I think these is supposed to be two bolts here but one of mine is missing.
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Then remove the bolt on the bottom of the bracket.
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Finally there is a gound wire attached to it.(sorry for the shitty pic)
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Remove the bracket holding your clutchline in place.
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Remove the clutch slave cylinder.
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Remove all three of these bolts on each side. (There may be more to remove on your car but I am missing alot of the plastics from under the car)
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Remove strut bolt.(on both sides)
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Remove front lower control arm bolt. (on both sides)
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Disconnect tie rod end on both sides.
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Remove brakes line bolt to get better access to the sway bar end link.
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Remove RMM bolt.


Remove this hose off the power steering pump first.


Now make sure that you have something to catch the power steering fluid as it will drain the resevoir as soon as you remove this bolt.


Now go inside the cabin and remove these two clips. then pull up on the piece of plastic to release it.


Pull this bolt and slide off the steering knuckle. MAKE A MARK WHERE IT WAS!. I didnt do this but I should have.


Remove these two bolts on each side.


Remove this bolt on each side this will cause the back side of the subframe to come down a bit.


Now Forgot to take a pic of this but remove the rear lower control arm bolt now that the subframe is lowered in the rear. After doing this put the subframe bolts back in finger tight.

Now remove these clips. There are three on each side.


At the front of the subframe there is a bolt attaching the lower radiator hose. Take it out.


Pull both of the control arms out of the subframe and position them like this so they are out of the way.


Remove the front subframe mount and remove the rear mounts and lower the subframe out. guide the power steering return line down.


Good job the subframe is out.



Now is the easiest time to drain your tranny oil!


While thats draining remove your downpipe.

This bolt holds down the secondary O2 sensor wiring. Get rid of it.


Now remove both of the coolant lines running to and from the TCase.



Remove both of the CV Axles.(I used a small hammer to tap them out.)


Remove the TCase support, and disconnect the crank position sensor wiring from it.



Disconnect drive shaft.


Now remove the 5 bolts going around the TCase and pull it out of the car.

Next were gonna remove the coolant hard line. Start with removing the hose that is indicated by the red arrow.


Next remove this line that goes to your throttle body.

Remove this nut.


Finally remove this line off your oil cooler and remove the hard line.


On your starter remove these two bolts.



Now use a flat head to pop it off. I decided not to completely remove it and just left it like this. (shouldnt be an issue)


Now the trans is ready to come out.

Rigg up your engine support like this.


Use a jack and a piece of wood to support the engine before removing the trans mount bolt.



Now remove the trans mount from the transmission.


Lower the transmission enought to clear the fram rail and remove these bolts. (I forgot to take pics before removing the trans. I got a lil excited)
There are three bolts on the top side.


Two bolts on the side towards the front of the car next to the starter and slave cylinder.


Two bolts on the other side. (towards the back of the vehicle) They go from the engine into the trans.


Finally there are four bolts at the bottom. Two of them go from the tranny into the oil pan and the other two go from the oil pan into the tranny(I forgot to take pics of these but you cant miss them.)



Now just grab ahold of the tranny and slide that fucker off.
For the rest of the install I used @MATT DAMOND; thread as it can be used on either ms3 or ms6.
HOW-TO: MAZDASPEED3 REPLACE CLUTCH
Great info in there Matt.
After that just put it back together in reverse order.
GOOD LUCK!
reserved
 
I absolutely appreciate this thread, but is this process actually longer than just pulling the entire engine? It feels like it would be more tedious. This may end up being a winter project for me.
 
Hello... personally I've pulled 3 times entire engine,trans,diff,turbo, intake manifold...if just and only a clutch pull, then this thread will help you decide which way to go. Look at the other threads to show the other method.
Best to create a new specific question on your concerns on a engine out or not.
Trying to not clutter this thread up...but having read your other post on wheel bearing @ a shop...
Holy cow, this process is magnitudes harder.
Remember the consumables to do this right might be thousands of $$.
 
Holy cow, this process is magnitudes harder.
Remember the consumables to do this right might be thousands of $$.
I won't clutter any further after. I ask a ton on new things, but I've actually pulled about half a dozen engines, just never Mazda. Taking apart is typically fine, the why or actual troubleshooting is a different story. I like finding time savers and efficiencies. I already have about everything for the typical engine pull (Honda). And with the Mazda finally moving to DD, if I ran into issue on wheel bearing or a wait on parts, then the Honda has to come back out.
The engine pull is for a sep Speed that I have unknown plans for. I'll get up to... " " on Mazda, it's all just new and book is just massive and at times daunting.

*A mod can delete this and my previous post.
 
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