Issues with the speed3

[Nstalker12]

Alright so long story but I’ll try and make it as short as possible so i have been having issues off and on for the last 4 months it stems from the time i was driving my car normally to taco bell to slam some tacos with the boys and when we were in the drive through the car suddenly bogged down and died we had to push it into the parking lot and it was about 30 minutes later i tried turning it over it finally cranked back over and turned on keep in mind i tried turning it over for that 30 minutes and it just cranked and wouldn't start. so i finally got it home and the next morning i tried turning it over again.. no luck so i did research and tried to resolve the issues and replaced lots of parts such as spark plugs gapped them to .26 and new coils, new cam and crankshaft sensor and all of that good stuff and cleaned injectors and finally after that she started running good for a little bit the she ended up not wanting to start again so i did more research and went through the forums and found out possibly MAF sensor issues so replaced that with o Reilly's special it drove again for a little bit but wouldn't start.. then i read that o Reilly's maf sensors are trash so got an OEM Mazda one. still not working, checked spark, and did more research and possibly narrowed it down to fueling or electrical. So i checked relays fuses all good check wires to see any issues check spill valve on top of HPFP and cleaned it and checked fuel pump ballast resistor and all seems good I think idk the best way to check if the ballast resistor or spill valve are messed.. now I'm at a loss i also checked to see if throttle body is opening up and it was.. I'm at a complete loss and i just want to be able to drive my car with no issues i plan on checking, pressure release valve i think its called but would that cause my car not to run? But then I’m gonna take a deeper look at HPFP check fuel lines then finally check in tank fuel pump but I'm not 100% sure and I'm not an expert by any means so i just was seeing if you guys could help. btw its a first gen with HPFP internals. EGR delete, intake, downpipe, BOV and just recently put on a FMIC. it has been sitting in my drive way for about 3 weeks now and its been working off and on for like the past 4 months

 

[L337TurboZ]

You need to stop throwing parts at the car without doing a proper diagnosis. You're wasting your time and your money.

When the car bogs down and shuts off, what are some of the details on it. Such as:

Is it to full operating temp? Do you have any DTC's set? Does the CEL flash before it bogs or does the theft light come on? What about your alternator and battery condition? Do you have any way of logging data?

Check your PCM connectors for corrosion, check fuel pressure going into the HPFP with a fuel pressure gauge. Take a fuel sample as well.

 

[Nstalker12]

You need to stop throwing parts at the car without doing a proper diagnosis. You're wasting your time and your money.

When the car bogs down and shuts off, what are some of the details on it. Such as:

Is it to full operating temp? Do you have any DTC's set? Does the CEL flash before it bogs or does the theft light come on? What about your alternator and battery condition? Do you have any way of logging data?

Check your PCM connectors for corrosion, check fuel pressure going into the HPFP with a fuel pressure gauge. Take a fuel sample as well.

Yeah I know I’m still a little new to the car specifically and I can’t get it to turn over only crank so I can check my KOEO fuel pressure and as of now no codes my guess is because it hasent had a drive cycle in awhile but I had to codes before which was P0102 and P0113 mass airflow circuit low input and IAT sensor circuit high input.. and when it died and bogged down it was up to operating temp coolant temps were at about 187-190.. and I also thought it was a alternator issue but then me and my buddy’s tested the battery and it seemed all good battery voltage is supposed to be around 12 ish volts right? And why I thought it was a fuel issue is because it would only crank when trying to start it but we tried using ether and the engine puttered for a second like it wanted to start and that’s were we thought it could be a fueling issue but we did check some of the wires would the corroded wires be by the PCM? Also I can log data while cranking but that’s it.. when it was driving it seemed all good till it wasent driving haha.. so idk if it could be a fueling issue either bad pressure release valve which idk why that would cause my car not to run or clogged spill valve or maybe HPFP issue or dirty ITFP filter I’m not 100% sure

 

[Nstalker12]

You need to stop throwing parts at the car without doing a proper diagnosis. You're wasting your time and your money.

When the car bogs down and shuts off, what are some of the details on it. Such as:

Is it to full operating temp? Do you have any DTC's set? Does the CEL flash before it bogs or does the theft light come on? What about your alternator and battery condition? Do you have any way of logging data?

Check your PCM connectors for corrosion, check fuel pressure going into the HPFP with a fuel pressure gauge. Take a fuel sample as well.

In these photos that’s my fuel pressure when cranking and KOEO

 

[L337TurboZ]

Did you take the connectors off of the PCM and inspect for corrosion? It would look like blue chunky stuff. You won't be able to test the alternator without it running unless you take it off and find a parts store that has an alternator tester however most parts stores dont even have those anymore. A healthy battery would be around 12.0-12.7 volts. The wires at the PCM get corroded because batteries produce off gasses which can get into the connector and cause build up. I had that issue on mine and had to repin the connector because my HPFP spill valve terminal was no good. I used a good electrical parts cleaner spray to remove the corrosion from the PCM side and connector, then got some dielectric grease to lubricate/protect the terminals from corrosion.

If you have a digital multi meter disconnect your battery, then remove the PCM connector. Do a resistance check of the wires between your MAF sensor and HPFP to the PCM. If your meter has a continuity function with audible noise do that or just watch the meter for when resistance pops up. Ideally your wires should have less than 2 ohms of a resistance which would indicate a good wire.

Though you say you're having a fueling issue make sure everything is sound electrically first so you know that can be eliminated as the fault.

Is the oil full and in good condition? Have you checked the crank sensor and wires leading to it for damage?

You mentioned you sprayed some ether and it sputtered which could indicate a fueling issue. Did you take a fuel sample? If not get one, let it sit in the jar for a few minutes and see how it looks, how strong it smells etc. Make sure you use a glass container cause gas will melt plastic.

Did you check spark at all? Like removing coils and checking to make sure they will fire a plug or using a inline spark check tool.

 

[Nstalker12]

Did you take the connectors off of the PCM and inspect for corrosion? It would look like blue chunky stuff. You won't be able to test the alternator without it running unless you take it off and find a parts store that has an alternator tester however most parts stores dont even have those anymore. A healthy battery would be around 12.0-12.7 volts. The wires at the PCM get corroded because batteries produce off gasses which can get into the connector and cause build up. I had that issue on mine and had to repin the connector because my HPFP spill valve terminal was no good. I used a good electrical parts cleaner spray to remove the corrosion from the PCM side and connector, then got some dielectric grease to lubricate/protect the terminals from corrosion.

If you have a digital multi meter disconnect your battery, then remove the PCM connector. Do a resistance check of the wires between your MAF sensor and HPFP to the PCM. If your meter has a continuity function with audible noise do that or just watch the meter for when resistance pops up. Ideally your wires should have less than 2 ohms of a resistance which would indicate a good wire.

Though you say you're having a fueling issue make sure everything is sound electrically first so you know that can be eliminated as the fault.

Is the oil full and in good condition? Have you checked the crank sensor and wires leading to it for damage?

You mentioned you sprayed some ether and it sputtered which could indicate a fueling issue. Did you take a fuel sample? If not get one, let it sit in the jar for a few minutes and see how it looks, how strong it smells etc. Make sure you use a glass container cause gas will melt plastic.

Did you check spark at all? Like removing coils and checking to make sure they will fire a plug or using a inline spark check tool.

Alright I’ll try all of that and yeah spark is good we tested all 4 spark plugs and they were solid.. so I eliminated spark and intake should be good cuz we have all new piping for my FMIC and I haven’t done a vacuum leak test but that wouldn’t cause my car not to run..? Now it’s either electrical or fuel and I’ll do the electrical test cuz that will be good to at least know it’s not that.. so with fueling issues what the most common problem for it that you have noticed yourself? Is it spill or release valve? Or HPFP or ITFP issues? And with the spill valve how do you test or fix that? Thanks for the help man like I said I’ll take a look tn and try what you recommend then I’ll go from there

 

[L337TurboZ]

Luckily for me I haven't really run into any fueling issues yet. I'm sure another member of the forum can give you advice on how to test the spill valve etc. I can also log into ProDemand tomorrow at work and see what the test procedure is for the spill valve.

 

[Nstalker12]

Luckily for me I haven't really run into any fueling issues yet. I'm sure another member of the forum can give you advice on how to test the spill valve etc. I can also log into ProDemand tomorrow at work and see what the test procedure is for the spill valve.

Okay cool I would appreciate that man I’m just trying to get her running I miss driving it haha