Keetz - Dreams to Reality 13 MS3 Diary

[Keetz]

First I want to warn that this will not be a rapid build. Things will probably change greatly throughout this endeavor. I wanted to start this diary so I can have something to look back on and see how this journey progressed. I have always been interested in cars and have tinkered with quite a few, from import to domestics, 4x4's, and just cosmetics and audio. I have always wanted a turbo car, but was never in a position to turbo a car that I previously owned or found it feasible to buy one. Fast forward to now and I have some disposable income, so I traded my truck and got a car I have wanted ever since owning an 06 3 hatch. Some of this is a rehash from my new member post, but it contains a little more info and what I'm starting with. That can be found here https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/new-speed3-owner.13013/
The TLDR is I can see the CPE TMIC, Cobb intake, and Cobb DP. I'm unsure about anything else at this point.

Vague, general future plans are to get a new turbo and CBE, maybe convert to FMIC, and then start saving to build the bottom end. I also want to tackle suspension and brakes. Most likely will upgrade the audio system once the car is sound. I basically just want to have a nice ride that I can have fun and enjoy some spirited driving with every once in a while. Current plans are to grab an Accessport next Friday and get it properly tuned asap. Been researching and believe I am going to go with Freektune or Dramatuned. I'm open to any advice as to which or a different tuner.

Today's post is just to get this diary started. I am doing some maintenance today as I have no idea what is currently in the car. I found the best oil and transmission fluid threads and went with those suggestions. I tried to find Pennzoil Ultra Platinum but no one local stocked it and I didn't want to drive a total of two hours to pick it up, so I went with Royal Purple. Out of Wix and Mazda, I chose the Mazda filter. I also picked up some Motorcraft fuild for the trans, unicorn jizz (not really sure how that term came about or what happened to unicorn tears, but I guess I am getting old). I also picked up a 23mm wrench and fluid pump thanks to one of the threads I read. I got NGK 6509's as I believe I still have a stock turbo and I am not sure about the current tune or lack there of. I am going to pull the HPFP to determine if the internals have been swapped. So checking the HPFP, changing fluids, plugs, and a much needed cabin air filter are the plans for today.


I am excited to start this journey and I am looking forward to sharing it. I am new to the MS3 scene so advice and knowledge are always welcome.

 

[StreetSpeed6]

First I want to warn that this will not be a rapid build. Things will probably change greatly throughout this endeavor. I wanted to start this diary so I can have something to look back on and see how this journey progressed. I have always been interested in cars and have tinkered with quite a few, from import to domestics, 4x4's, and just cosmetics and audio. I have always wanted a turbo car, but was never in a position to turbo a car that I previously owned or found it feasible to buy one. Fast forward to now and I have some disposable income, so I traded my truck and got a car I have wanted ever since owning an 06 3 hatch. Some of this is a rehash from my new member post, but it contains a little more info and what I'm starting with. That can be found here https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/new-speed3-owner.13013/
The TLDR is I can see the CPE TMIC, Cobb intake, and Cobb DP. I'm unsure about anything else at this point.

Vague, general future plans are to get a new turbo and CBE, maybe convert to FMIC, and then start saving to build the bottom end. I also want to tackle suspension and brakes. Most likely will upgrade the audio system once the car is sound. I basically just want to have a nice ride that I can have fun and enjoy some spirited driving with every once in a while. Current plans are to grab an Accessport next Friday and get it properly tuned asap. Been researching and believe I am going to go with Freektune or Dramatuned. I'm open to any advice as to which or a different tuner.

Today's post is just to get this diary started. I am doing some maintenance today as I have no idea what is currently in the car. I found the best oil and transmission fluid threads and went with those suggestions. I tried to find Pennzoil Ultra Platinum but no one local stocked it and I didn't want to drive a total of two hours to pick it up, so I went with Royal Purple. Out of Wix and Mazda, I chose the Mazda filter. I also picked up some Motorcraft fuild for the trans, unicorn jizz (not really sure how that term came about or what happened to unicorn tears, but I guess I am getting old). I also picked up a 23mm wrench and fluid pump thanks to one of the threads I read. I got NGK 6509's as I believe I still have a stock turbo and I am not sure about the current tune or lack there of. I am going to pull the HPFP to determine if the internals have been swapped. So checking the HPFP, changing fluids, plugs, and a much needed cabin air filter are the plans for today.
View attachment 19789

I am excited to start this journey and I am looking forward to sharing it. I am new to the MS3 scene so advice and knowledge are always welcome.

I have heard terrible things about dramatune so my vote goes by far to Freektune. Personally I haven't been tuned by Freek or Purple Drank Tuning but the guy Will that runs PD Tuning has actually answered questions with me and took time to help me with issues when I hadn't even paid him to tune my car. He seems like a super great guy and is top 2 basically between him and freek. Good luck with the build and don't worry mine has been a slow process as well so I can relate!

 

[Kraze]

Welcome! It sounds like you're on the right track and have been doing your homework! I'd definitely check on that HPFP and figure your tune situation out before you drive the car too hard. If you just want an OTS Freektune, you basically get it for free if you buy the accessport from his website, so that's worth considering.

Couple comments/tips just in case you weren't already aware:

Make sure you gap those plugs before installing. For a stock-ish car you can probably do somewhere between .026-.028.

5w-40 might have been worth a shot since your turbo is smoking. I usually order my Pennzoil Euro 5w-40 off Amazon. It's the only 5w-40 I've been able to find that's API SN plus rated. But that RP is good stuff as well and I believe is also API SN Plus rated.

You can fill the trans from the top with a funnel and some hose if that transfer pump gives you problems (I always seem to have bad luck with those, but that's probably just me lol).

I hope you can get into contact with the previous owner so you can figure out the history on it! Might be worth a shot posting the pics of the car to some of the Mazdaspeed Facebook groups just to see if anyone recognizes it and knows who the previous owner is.

 

[Keetz]

So update from today. First off, it has been a long time since I wrenched on a vehicle and it took me a lot longer than I was expecting to do everything I had planned. I am blaming it on my wife, since she was taking a nap when I reached the point that I needed an extra set of hands, even though I told her I would need some assistance at some point. I believe I spent about an hour messing around on forums and Youtube while patiently waiting for her to wake up. Anyway, on to the progress and findings.

The oil change went smoothly, other than the crush washer being a b**** to get off the drain plug. I know I said I bought a 23mm wrench after reading about it in some thread, but apparently that informative post was completely wrong. I ended up having to return that wrench and bought a 24mm socket in order to remove the drain and fill plugs for trans. The siphon pump I got worked great, except for the fact that my wife taking a nap stopped me from having her keep the bottle and hose secure. I accidently knocked the first bottle of fluid over while trying to pump the fluid in solo. Luckily I realized it and only lost a little bit before standing the bottle up. So at that point, I said the hell with it and woke the wife up to make her help me. After a little bickering, she came out to assist me. Filling the trans went smoothly after that. Since I had the car on jack stands, I decided to rotate the tires.

Once I dropped the car back down, I removed the intercooler in order to change the plugs. I have read in a few spots that the best plugs are NGK and to stay away from Denso plugs. Go figure the car had Denso's in it. I checked the gap on them and it was at 0.035. I don't know if the gap can change after installation but I have read that the gap should be 0.026-0.028. I gapped the NGK's I picked up to 0.028 and threw them in. The worst plug I pulled out looked really bad.


After the plugs, it was time to determine if I had HPFP internals. After a bit of a struggle with the hard line under the pump, I got if off. The retainer is of the dual type so from what I have read, I assume it has been upgraded. I am attaching pics, if someone could confirm that would be awesome as it would save me $350.


Since I had the intercooler and a bunch of lines out of the way, I made sure all my hose clamps were in a good location and tightened. There were a couple that were questionable. I reinstalled everything and then primed the fuel lines. When I started the car, the exhaust spit black stuff for about 30 seconds before clearing up. I let it run for a little while and then proceeded to change the cabin air filter. This is where things got crazy. I have never seen a filter so dirty. When I first got the car, I thought I was going to need to have the system recharged, as it blew somewhat cold but just felt weak. Now I know why. I think the previous owner kept the car in a forest for a couple years. The images below show what I found when changing the filters. After cleaning everything out and replacing the filters, the AC blows very well and cold.


While under the car, I saw that the RMM had been replaced with a Cobb unit. I believe the turbo is stock. Is there any easy way to verify that or would someone here know just by looking? I also determined that the DP is catted. Is it normal for a DP to taper down at the exhaust? I thought it would be 3" all the way but maybe that is from my knowledge of other turbo vehicles.


Once I finished everything, I took it for a drive and all I can say is wow. It feels like a completely different car. It still smokes when pushing it but not nearly as bad as it did before. I am hoping the HPFP is upgraded like I believe it is. I am still planning to order an AP next week, but I need to look into ordering it from Freektune as Kraze suggested. Never hurts to save a little money here and there. Also, Kraze you should grab the pump I have in the first post. It worked very well and I didn't have to fish a hose down from the top.

Last thing for tonight, how do I link/mention/tag someone on the forum?

 

[travman]

Star Trek and cannabis is all I see under them foot wells. How did you get so many sticks and stems?


— —

 

[StreetSpeed6]

So update from today. First off, it has been a long time since I wrenched on a vehicle and it took me a lot longer than I was expecting to do everything I had planned. I am blaming it on my wife, since she was taking a nap when I reached the point that I needed an extra set of hands, even though I told her I would need some assistance at some point. I believe I spent about an hour messing around on forums and Youtube while patiently waiting for her to wake up. Anyway, on to the progress and findings.

The oil change went smoothly, other than the crush washer being a b**** to get off the drain plug. I know I said I bought a 23mm wrench after reading about it in some thread, but apparently that informative post was completely wrong. I ended up having to return that wrench and bought a 24mm socket in order to remove the drain and fill plugs for trans. The siphon pump I got worked great, except for the fact that my wife taking a nap stopped me from having her keep the bottle and hose secure. I accidently knocked the first bottle of fluid over while trying to pump the fluid in solo. Luckily I realized it and only lost a little bit before standing the bottle up. So at that point, I said the hell with it and woke the wife up to make her help me. After a little bickering, she came out to assist me. Filling the trans went smoothly after that. Since I had the car on jack stands, I decided to rotate the tires.

Once I dropped the car back down, I removed the intercooler in order to change the plugs. I have read in a few spots that the best plugs are NGK and to stay away from Denso plugs. Go figure the car had Denso's in it. I checked the gap on them and it was at 0.035. I don't know if the gap can change after installation but I have read that the gap should be 0.026-0.028. I gapped the NGK's I picked up to 0.028 and threw them in. The worst plug I pulled out looked really bad.
View attachment 19790 View attachment 19791

After the plugs, it was time to determine if I had HPFP internals. After a bit of a struggle with the hard line under the pump, I got if off. The retainer is of the dual type so from what I have read, I assume it has been upgraded. I am attaching pics, if someone could confirm that would be awesome as it would save me $350.
View attachment 19793 View attachment 19792

Since I had the intercooler and a bunch of lines out of the way, I made sure all my hose clamps were in a good location and tightened. There were a couple that were questionable. I reinstalled everything and then primed the fuel lines. When I started the car, the exhaust spit black stuff for about 30 seconds before clearing up. I let it run for a little while and then proceeded to change the cabin air filter. This is where things got crazy. I have never seen a filter so dirty. When I first got the car, I thought I was going to need to have the system recharged, as it blew somewhat cold but just felt weak. Now I know why. I think the previous owner kept the car in a forest for a couple years. The images below show what I found when changing the filters. After cleaning everything out and replacing the filters, the AC blows very well and cold.
View attachment 19794 View attachment 19795 View attachment 19796 View attachment 19797

While under the car, I saw that the RMM had been replaced with a Cobb unit. I believe the turbo is stock. Is there any easy way to verify that or would someone here know just by looking? I also determined that the DP is catted. Is it normal for a DP to taper down at the exhaust? I thought it would be 3" all the way but maybe that is from my knowledge of other turbo vehicles.
View attachment 19798 View attachment 19799 View attachment 19800

Once I finished everything, I took it for a drive and all I can say is wow. It feels like a completely different car. It still smokes when pushing it but not nearly as bad as it did before. I am hoping the HPFP is upgraded like I believe it is. I am still planning to order an AP next week, but I need to look into ordering it from Freektune as Kraze suggested. Never hurts to save a little money here and there. Also, Kraze you should grab the pump I have in the first post. It worked very well and I didn't have to fish a hose down from the top.

Last thing for tonight, how do I link/mention/tag someone on the forum?

Hey man those plugs aren't too bad actually just need replaced it looks like. A bit of white tip and black base with a somewhat pointed electrode in the middle is normal. Gap sometimes opens up over time so no surprise with .035 cuz they probably were gapped for .032 originally. As for your DP mine doesn't taper but the larger part is probably just the cat and so it is actually 3" then bigger for cat and then 3".

Also, wait.... wife's help work on cars?? You must be lucky as mine doesn't unless I beg and it is probably limited to 15 minutes or so before she says screw it and goes back in lol The picture of your turbo drain makes me laugh because you can't even see it on a 6 so consider yourself lucky!!

 

[Keetz]

Hey man those plugs aren't too bad actually just need replaced it looks like. A bit of white tip and black base with a somewhat pointed electrode in the middle is normal. Gap sometimes opens up over time so no surprise with .035 cuz they probably were gapped for .032 originally. As for your DP mine doesn't taper but the larger part is probably just the cat and so it is actually 3" then bigger for cat and then 3".

Also, wait.... wife's help work on cars?? You must be lucky as mine doesn't unless I beg and it is probably limited to 15 minutes or so before she says screw it and goes back in lol The picture of your turbo drain makes me laugh because you can't even see it on a 6 so consider yourself lucky!!

My wife's grandfather always had her working on cars with him, so yeah I guess I did get a little lucky. She even said when I upgrade the turbo she wants to help, haha. As far as the plugs, if they open over time how often should I replace the NGK's as they were originally 0.040? The taper on the DP is right where it connects to the exhaust. I am looking at getting the CPE Triton exhaust and it is listed as full 3" so was curious if I will just have a bottle neck between the DP and catback.

 

[StreetSpeed6]

My wife's grandfather always had her working on cars with him, so yeah I guess I did get a little lucky. She even said when I upgrade the turbo she wants to help, haha. As far as the plugs, if they open over time how often should I replace the NGK's as they were originally 0.040? The taper on the DP is right where it connects to the exhaust. I am looking at getting the CPE Triton exhaust and it is listed as full 3" so was curious if I will just have a bottle neck between the DP and catback.

Just curious but did you get the NGK 6509 original temperature plugs or the 6510? I have a bigger turbo (CST4) and my car actually seemed to lose power when I went from a factory cat back with different high flow mufflers to a full 3" back. It lost torque but probably opened up a slight bit on top end. That "bottleneck" won't effect you unless you're going for big power like 450-500 or something.

On only slightly raised power, normal temp plugs are fine but much more boost than stock you probably want the 6510 plugs that one step colder. I only replace my plugs probably every 15k miles or so. Some guys running higher power have to change theirs out sooner but it is more important to just check them every oil change or so and see how they look and gap them back to .026 - .028 each time.

 

[Keetz]

Just curious but did you get the NGK 6509 original temperature plugs or the 6510? I have a bigger turbo (CST4) and my car actually seemed to lose power when I went from a factory cat back with different high flow mufflers to a full 3" back. It lost torque but probably opened up a slight bit on top end. That "bottleneck" won't effect you unless you're going for big power like 450-500 or something

I got the 6509's. I didn't think I needed the 6510's as I haven't upgraded the turbo yet and I am unsure of how the car is tuned. I have contacted Freektune about getting an AP and OTS tune until I get a new turbo and catback. I will replace these plugs with whatever he suggests at the time of installing the AP and tune. I am not stressing losing a bit of power due to the catback because the new turbo should more than make up for it.

 

[StreetSpeed6]

I got the 6509's. I didn't think I needed the 6510's as I haven't upgraded the turbo yet and I am unsure of how the car is tuned. I have contacted Freektune about getting an AP and OTS tune until I get a new turbo and catback. I will replace these plugs with whatever he suggests at the time of installing the AP and tune. I am not stressing losing a bit of power due to the catback because the new turbo should more than make up for it.

Well he will definitely not mislead you as he is the best we have got as a tuning solution pretty much. Good call on stock temp plugs though for now!

 

[Keetz]

I was able to drive the car a lot the last two days and finally burned all of the fuel out of the car that the dealership had filled it with. I filled up with Mobil 93 and the car seems to be running better and idling way better. The transmission seems to have lost some of the smoothness during shifts. It feels notchier. Don't know how else to describe it. Does it take a little while for the Ford stuff to break in or something? Contemplating switching to Tribodyn if this feeling doesn't go away.

Also, after rotating the tires, I am feeling a lot of vibrations. I believe I need to have the wheels balanced as well as two of the tires need to be replaced. Rather than wasting money on new tires with the absurdly checked stock rims, I am looking at getting a new set of rims and tires. I am looking at the Konig Dekagram in gloss bronze, 18x8.5. Also looking at Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3 Plus in 245/40R18 93Y SL. Currently looking at 45 offset but looking for opinions on that. In the wheel fitment thread I saw one with what I believe are the same wheels at the same specs and I liked the look of it. But after doing the research on offset for MS3's it seems that it's a toss up between 45 and 35. I am looking for opinions on offset and tire recommendations if anyone believes my choice to be lacking. I am currently on stock suspension but eventually plan on coilovers, currently considering the Bilstein B16 kit. I don't plan on dropping it significantly as that would render me unable to get into my driveway and carport. I also don't mind rolling fenders if needed. I appreciate any feedback!

 

[Easter Bunny]

The transmission fluid needs some miles to smooth out

 

[Keetz]

It has been a while and I haven't been able to do much as my work schedule has been a little crazy. I ordered the Konig Dekagrams and decided to go with DWS06 Plus for tires. They have been on order for a long time and apparently should be here around the beginning of November. I am planning to order the Damond front suspension bushings and anti-lift kit soon, then have an alignment done prior to mounting the new wheels. I replaced the after-cat O2 sensor and the battery a few weeks ago as I had a CEL and some starting issues. I also noticed that the bypass hose has a tear at the clamp on the valve side. I have been trying to figure out what hose to order since I have the Cobb intake and apparently a lot of hoses will not fit on the intake nipple. I think the next upgrade I will complete once the wheels are on will be Damond motor mounts.

Over the weekend I completed my much needed brake upgrade. I went with the Stop-tech sport kit and Damond caliper bushings. I also flushed the fluid with Pentosin Super DOT 4 based on some recommendations I found within the forums.

 

[Keetz]

So after ordering my rims and tires months ago, they finally came in. I really need to clean my car but I wanted to get a picture up.

I went with the Continental DSW06 Plus in 245/40R18 and Konig Dekagrams in gloss bronze 18x8.5 45 offset.

I still have quite a bit more planned but a lot of life stuff has been happening over the last few months that has severely limited my time for the project.

 

[StreetSpeed6]

Looks good bro

 

[Keetz]

So I know it has been a long time. I took a promotion at work which resulted in quite a lot of time going into me learning my new role. We also sold our house and purchased a newer house which is a major upgrade for us. I now have a garage which I am stoked about! Anyways, on to the good stuff...

I have been buying up parts for upgrades over the past couple of months. I solidified my decision to go for drivability and performance related to HPDE's and possibly some road racing. Parts so far are listed below:
GTX2867R Kit
Kozmic oil feed line
Damond 3.5” Intake / K&N Filter
Corksport intake manifold
Overspeed injector seals
NGK 6510 gapped to 0.024
Turbosmart BOV Supersonic Maz/Sub
Corksport 4.5 bar MAP sensor
Corksport E85 safe HPFP O-ring kit
Damond stage 3 OCC and PCV plate
Relay and diode for VTCS delete
Cobb Accessport V3
Grimspeed EBCS

Car already had a CPE TMIC and Cobb catted downpipe. While installing all of these parts, I am going to clean the valves and send the injectors out to be cleaned. I ordered the Corksport valve cleaning attachment as well as the injector puller to try to make this job as smooth as possible. I also got the relay and diode to delete the VTCS. I also grabbed an EGR delete, but with the Cobb update I will probably not install it. Planning to start tearing it down tomorrow.

Also wanted to give a huge shoutout to Will at PD Tuning and Matt at Damond Motorsports. Will provided a lot of information and advice prior to me purchasing anything from him. Will has been absolutely amazing throughout this process and has gone above and beyond to help me reach my goals. Matt has also been super solid and willing to work with me on some custom orders.

These parts just sitting in my floor has been killing me. I will post some progress pics this week.

 

[StreetSpeed6]

So I know it has been a long time. I took a promotion at work which resulted in quite a lot of time going into me learning my new role. We also sold our house and purchased a newer house which is a major upgrade for us. I now have a garage which I am stoked about! Anyways, on to the good stuff...

I have been buying up parts for upgrades over the past couple of months. I solidified my decision to go for drivability and performance related to HPDE's and possibly some road racing. Parts so far are listed below:
GTX2867R Kit
Kozmic oil feed line
Damond 3.5” Intake / K&N Filter
Corksport intake manifold
Overspeed injector seals
NGK 6510 gapped to 0.024
Turbosmart BOV Supersonic Maz/Sub
Corksport 4.5 bar MAP sensor
Corksport E85 safe HPFP O-ring kit
Damond stage 3 OCC and PCV plate
Relay and diode for VTCS delete
Cobb Accessport V3
Grimspeed EBCS

Car already had a CPE TMIC and Cobb catted downpipe. While installing all of these parts, I am going to clean the valves and send the injectors out to be cleaned. I ordered the Corksport valve cleaning attachment as well as the injector puller to try to make this job as smooth as possible. I also got the relay and diode to delete the VTCS. I also grabbed an EGR delete, but with the Cobb update I will probably not install it. Planning to start tearing it down tomorrow.

Also wanted to give a huge shoutout to Will at PD Tuning and Matt at Damond Motorsports. Will provided a lot of information and advice prior to me purchasing anything from him. Will has been absolutely amazing throughout this process and has gone above and beyond to help me reach my goals. Matt has also been super solid and willing to work with me on some custom orders.

These parts just sitting in my floor has been killing me. I will post some progress pics this week.
View attachment 22599

Pshh... "Onto the good stuff" lol Sounds like it is all good bro congrats!! New house, new job is amazing let alone the go fast bits! Hopefully we can both be rocking our new and improved setups soon!

 

[Easter Bunny]

FYI. The corksport intake manifold does not have a provision for mounting the tmic though I'm sure something could be made to work

You don't need any kit to delete the vtcs if you leave the black box plugged in the ECU will think it is working even if it's not connected to the flaps anymore

 

[Keetz]

FYI. The corksport intake manifold does not have a provision for mounting the tmic though I'm sure something could be made to work

You don't need any kit to delete the vtcs if you leave the black box plugged in the ECU will think it is working even if it's not connected to the flaps anymore

I believe you are mistaken about the manifold. There are two threaded provisions on the manifold and I just checked the Corksport website to verify that’s what they are for. It will not support a TMIC if using port injection. I will not be using port injection any time soon and will upgrade to front mount if I ever choose to do so. Maybe they updated their manifold to accommodate TMIC’s from a previous revision???

As far as the VTCS, I felt it would be cleaner to add the relay in order to not have the bulk of the black box. If the relay and diode method does not work I can always rewrite the black box back in to resolve the issue.

 

[Awafrican]

FYI. The corksport intake manifold does not have a provision for mounting the tmic though I'm sure something could be made to work

You don't need any kit to delete the vtcs if you leave the black box plugged in the ECU will think it is working even if it's not connected to the flaps anymore

You can mount tmic with the CS intake manifold, however no EGR provision.