Lower and front tie bars: worth it?
- Thread starter Seal
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what torque steer? just hold the wheel heh.
rear motor mount is your biggest upgrade if not already done so, followed by rear sway bar recommend white line, OEM end links still seems to rein supreme unless you need adjustable then white line. for motor mounts I recommend damond Motorsports
front sway bar isn't all that common of an upgrade from what I've seen over the years unless folks are setting up for the track.
rear motor mount is your biggest upgrade if not already done so, followed by rear sway bar recommend white line, OEM end links still seems to rein supreme unless you need adjustable then white line. for motor mounts I recommend damond Motorsports
front sway bar isn't all that common of an upgrade from what I've seen over the years unless folks are setting up for the track.
These cars don't have torque steer. They break traction. If you have problems that you think are torque steer you have broken or worn parts in the suspension or need better tires or a better alignment.
I had no torque steer for 110,000 miles then started getting some ended up being a bad sway bar end link
I had no torque steer for 110,000 miles then started getting some ended up being a bad sway bar end link
Maybe I’ve misunderstood but I’ve seen numerous accounts that TS is a known issue. From what I understand it is due to the CV joint angles being different?
Regarding the OEM end links are you referring to the rear to go with the white line rear away bar and or OEM for the front sway?
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not sure what's so complicated about my post... end links stay OEM unless you need adjustable ones and then you go with white line. irrespective of if you an upgraded sway bar or not.
torque steer is an issue because of poor alignment even from factory as already stated it's not bad at all with a proper alignment
Geometry is the same side to side and Mazda has placed a bearing on the passenger axle tmos that the free length is the same on both sides. Any account you have read stating that there was torque steer was using the wrong word to describe wheelspin
Get a good alignment and floor it in third gear. If the car was going to torque steer it would do it without breaking the tires loose
My car had what I call the "third gear rodeo" where the stock diff would lock up (like it should) and one front tire would break traction, then the other back and forth a few times. This is not torque steer, which should technically be impossible on the platform if the diff is working properly; both wheels should be spinning at the same speed.
If you have actual torque steer, then either you're running the wrong diff fluid and it's slipping or it needs more friction modifier added or something.
I used to have a video (and have had several passengers) watch me rack 3 gears at WOT at well over 350HP on the stock engine/trans/diff while holding the steering wheel with a single finger and going perfectly straight on the freeway. Never had an alignment, car tracks straight true at cruise at any speed so long as the road is flat, and steering is so sharp I only need a few degrees of wheel turn to change lanes on the freeway.
Zach@cs
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The left and right tire are both trying to go their own direction when you are pushing it hard from stop. Left trying to left and the right trying to right with that LSD. Get them locked in together and that helps that wandering torque steer on the road. If you drag race the car you will notice it more. It also will help reduce wheel hop and help keep the loose change from spalshing into your shift boot. That and a rear motor mount were game changers on how that car felt from a dig and banging gears. That and It took me longer to put it on the lift than it did to install the lower tie bar haha