New to Speed 6 platform, General Questions, Not Hitting Boost properly

JDM Speed 6

JDM Speed 6

Greenie N00B Member
Greenie Member
okay so i picked up my first speed 6, 2006 grand touring with 125k miles.

previous owner got me good. flew all to way to Indiana from KC to pick up a "zero issue" car. with a brand new turbo.

anyways, after owning it for a couple months i have noticed quite a few things. doesn't hit factory boost levels, had a bad misfire under heavy acceleration (fixed this, was a cracked spark plug), and under light acceleration, the car will surge, boost will build and cut buck, build cut back, from the research ive done, ive read the Forge BPV can get sticky, so i ordered a rebuild kit and will re-grease it. hopefully that fixes that issue. and it also burns oil, a lot of oil.

only mods on the car are JBR TMIC couplers and a Forge BPV. other than that, its bone stock. i replaced the PCV valve already, that did nto fix the issue like i hoped it would, i looked inside the Intake manifold when the TMIC was off and its SOAKED inside. from the excessive amounts of RTV near the timing side, id assume the chain and Tensioner were replaced as well at some point. car is also is hitting 1700 psi under acceleration, so thats good.

i have an ultra gauge and plugged it in and noticed that i was only hitting 8psi max, after lots of research, and replacing the factory solenoid already, i think its the POS Chinese junk turbo the previous owner installed?

so, what route would you guys/gals go? i can get a brand new KO4 for $500, could bolt up, and be back to stock power levels (hopefully) or, I am interested in going CST4, but with that, i know i need supporting mods, ie DP, CAI, HPFP internals, CAI, AP with a freektune, so that's almost $2,500-$2,700 car is still stock block, how reliable are these things at higher miles? I've heard horror stories on these factory blocks giving up at even stock power levels. I come from the LS1 and 4G63 world for a reference.

the next big elephant in the room is oil consumption, after driving it home, and monitoring the car over the last few thousand miles, this dang thing is burning about a 1qt of oil every 500-750 miles. I've NEVER had a car burn this much, has anyone had similar problems? do the oil rings go bad? i Run 5w-30, mobile 1 advanced. i also did a Compression check, and hit 180,182,181,178 so that sounds like a healthy motor to me? I'm down to the valve seals or the oil rings are toast? i don't have any crazy smoke out the back either from what i can tell, so I'm really puzzled at this point where its all going.

excited to join the community and start taking car of this thing and bring it back to life. hopefully

cheers
 
Congratulations on acquiring the MS6!

It’s possible your oil ‘burning’ issue is leaking seals from the turbo. Especially considering your intake manifold is wet.

If you’re wanting to get a new turbo on the cheap I’ll mention this one. I got this with the intention of temporarily using it while I rebuilt the OEM turbo. It’s been working great for a year now and so I have been dragging my feet with rebuilding the OEM one. I have the OTS+ and a touch up from Freektune (the touch up I saw boost as high as 19.9psi). I don’t know how long the turbo will last but I’ve been glad I got it.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2005-2010-...p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

I don’t have much opinion about the low boost except for a boost leak. But maybe your BPV idea is correct. Hopefully someone else will chime in.
 
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You can have good compression but your oil control rings can be shit. I see it all the time on LS engines. They burn oil but run fine, until the plugs get oil fouled.

It would be a good idea to install a catch can. How quickly that fills could give you an actual idea of the oil consumption in the engine. If it's not filling fast then it could be the turbo. Well only if it's being consumed on the turbine side and not going into the compressor side.

You could also have a HPFP leaking internally into the engine diluting your oil allowing it to burn off easier. Have you changed the oil and if so did it smell like fuel at all?
 
L337TurboZ said:
You can have good compression but your oil control rings can be shit. I see it all the time on LS engines. They burn oil but run fine, until the plugs get oil fouled.

It would be a good idea to install a catch can. How quickly that fills could give you an actual idea of the oil consumption in the engine. If it's not filling fast then it could be the turbo. Well only if it's being consumed on the turbine side and not going into the compressor side.

You could also have a HPFP leaking internally into the engine diluting your oil allowing it to burn off easier. Have you changed the oil and if so did it smell like fuel at all?
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I actually just recently changed the plugs, here's a pic of what came out, Cyl 4 is an outlier for some reason.
upload_2022-3-30_6-43-23.png

From the research I've done, it looks like everyone really likes the Damond motorsports setups, i was looking at the Stage 1, from the pcv valve to the Intake manifold for $200. are there any others you all would recommend?

I have changed the oil Twice already, and don't remember smelling an overpowering aroma of fuel, but ill make sure to check for that next time. also, not to start another oil thread, but do you run 5w-30 still? or are you running a heavier weight like 5w-40?
 
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There is a whole beat oil thread if you look for it
 
Okay so tried searching around, but can't find these exact symptoms...

I have an AP on the way but have tried what I can and I'm stumped.

I have replaced the wideband o2 sensor, new stock range plugs, rebuilt my forge bypass valve.

Car is bone stock

And under lite acceleration maintaining the same Throttle position.. the car will fluctuate in boost, and I can see it on my ultra gauge. It will go up and down, up and down. If I floor it to 100%, surging goes away and will hold steady boost till I shift. It only happens under lite acceleration/load and in my mind it's intermittent, I notice it mostly while on cruise control in 6th going up a hill, it will start surging under lite load. If I take over and apply more Throttle, it goes away.

It's almost as if it's when I have the pedal at a perfect position or range in the stroke, that it does it, which leades me to belive electronics of some kind..

Is this possibly a bad Throttle Body? Worth upgraded to the corksport one for $260? Any way to test with a multimeter to verify resistance values if it's "good" or "bad"

Any help would be great. I'll try to get it on video tomorrow and post a reply yall can see what's happening.
 
Merged threads seems like same issue no need to create multiple threads for the same issue Infact it'll make it harder for people to help you
 
Awafrican said:
Merged threads seems like same issue no need to create multiple threads for the same issue Infact it'll make it harder for people to help you
Click to expand...

Sorry, Was just trying to isolate one specific problem, wasn't getting any responses on this thread..

Do you not have any advice to offer? Really trying to get this issue fixed sooner than later hopefully.
 
JDM Speed 6 said:
wasn't getting any responses on this thread..
Click to expand...
You've gotten plenty of responses with information, even to your last question you got a response.
Also when quoting don't edit the message to reply in line as most people won't expand the quote especially if it's the previous message to see the response. I only just noticed you did this. I'll fix it so it's more visible and hopefully you get answers to it all

As for your most recent question that seems normal boost / vacuum is going to flactuate as you drive, also regarding 6th it seems perhaps you're not at a high enough rpm going up the hill? Especially during cruise you need to manually down shift it's not going to be able to over come the load. CS throttle body isn't going to fix anything especially since you'll need to be tuned for it to actually scale with the pedal properly.

Occ: damond is the way to go IMO
 
Well, I was trying to do some more troubleshooting and diagnosing and found this.. I belive this is apart of the actuator system for the flaps on the inside of the intake Manifold, yes?

The hoses were so hard just touching one of them broke it in half. I'm assuming these are supposed to be normal, soft, pliable vacume lines correct?

Haven't had time to test drive yet but hoping this might have solved my intermittent boost building and dropping at mid Throttle problem. I will report back tomorrow.
 

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For reference, I took a video today trying to capture what the boost is doing. You'll notice boost presure on the screen, bottom right hand side. As I am accelerating slowly, I am gradually pressing down the Throttle pedal. The boost seems to he holding steady linearly with my acceleration, untill I hit a certain point with the Throttle, and you will see the boost radically jump from 9psi, 5psi, 8psi, 4psi 8psi 3psi psi etc and you can feel this physically with the car surging forward.

Sorry for the crappy video, best I could do on my way home from work
 

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If your vacuum hoses are falling apart, its time to buy a spool and replace them all 1 at a time. Near impossible to diagnose problems on a car when parts are sub standard, too many variables. With these cars being 15-16 years old, more maintenance will be required due to mileage, time and heat cycles. Vacuum issues seriously affect turbo cars and usually are not always easily found with a visual inspection.
 
Well sadly, it did not fix my surging issue. Gonna take that advice and just start replacing all vacuum hoses when I get the chance and report back.

Also gonna run by home depot and try to make a Boost leak tester, the one I made for my DSM is just a hair to big and won't clamp tight enough around the K04 housing and will report back how many leaks I have, as I'm sure there ate many

Cheers
 
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