OCV reverse polarity

GCPhotographers

GCPhotographers

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What would truly happen if the polarity is reversed? Meaning if a person wire the OCV connector backwards. I ask because I have someone that just install the extension kit. No code comes. After a few days, the car sounds like it is running on 2 cylinders. Anyone can assist? I think the wires might be backwards but the symptoms online only talk about a bad OCV.

I will take photos in a few hours to show what is going on with the wiring....then again, it can be something else.
 
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The OCV is essentially a solenoid. Some solenoids when wired incorrectly will still function, but the magnetic fields will collapse 180 degrees out of phase (so when it's supposed to be closed, it's actually open, and vice versa). Others will just not work at all, if there's a diode inline, but more likely, no current is getting through the solenoid at all because there's no circuit being completed. The Mazdaspeed OCV is a 2-wire solenoid, so no circuit is being completed in this case.

Either way, it's not ideal for the OCV, as any variable valve timing system relies on the camshafts to advance as rpm goes up. So that feeling of "running on 2 cylinders" is likely the timing being way off because the VVT actuator (the intake cam sprocket) isn't being supplied oil by the VVT solenoid (OCV) when it needs it, so no advance is occurring.
 
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dinnerplate said:
The OCV is essentially a solenoid. Some solenoids when wired incorrectly will still function, but the magnetic fields will collapse 180 degrees out of phase (so when it's supposed to be closed, it's actually open, and vice versa). Others will just not work at all, if there's a diode inline, but more likely, no current is getting through the solenoid at all because there's no circuit being completed. The Mazdaspeed OCV is a 2-wire solenoid, so no circuit is being completed in this case.

Either way, it's not ideal for the OCV, as any variable valve timing system relies on the camshafts to advance as rpm goes up. So that feeling of "running on 2 cylinders" is likely the timing being way off because the VVT actuator (the intake cam sprocket) isn't being supplied oil by the VVT solenoid (OCV) when it needs it, so no advance is occurring.
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Thank you for replying. I guess I messed up when swapping out the main harness and wiring the vvt extension wire backwards. I hope I didn't damage anything serious. I guess I need to reverse the wires and replace the OCV as I might have damaged it or maybe even the VVT actuator is damaged?
 
GCPhotographers said:
Thank you for replying. I guess I messed up when swapping out the main harness and wiring the vvt extension wire backwards. I hope I didn't damage anything serious. I guess I need to reverse the wires and replace the OCV as I might have damaged it or maybe even the VVT actuator is damaged?
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No damage will have occurred, unless there was preexisting damage to the system. VVT is a sprung system, oil isn’t there to lubricate the system like the rest of the engine. Just flip the polarity so that it’s correct and you’ll be set. There’s no concern of valves and pistons colliding either because the advance of the cam (or lack of advancement) does not offset the opening and closing of the valves enough for collision to happen; the cams are chain driven, so as long as your VVT system isn’t already failing (or have failed), you’re good.
 
dinnerplate said:
No damage will have occurred, unless there was preexisting damage to the system. VVT is a sprung system, oil isn’t there to lubricate the system like the rest of the engine. Just flip the polarity so that it’s correct and you’ll be set. There’s no concern of valves and pistons colliding either because the advance of the cam (or lack of advancement) does not offset the opening and closing of the valves enough for collision to happen; the cams are chain driven, so as long as your VVT system isn’t already failing (or have failed), you’re good.
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sway the wires and even added a new female connector with new wire as that wire was exposed and the other side just came off. It seems something is off as the car is struggling with now a P2088 code.

video 1: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/f0i4...ey=zos8usni7lpts2id8130tmxpy&st=r31g6ujt&dl=0

video 2: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/l1t6...ey=bgfsm6wwetn3tnerlq2go0tm9&st=qaseqy1s&dl=0
 

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P2088 tells me that whatever the wires were at originally were the correct polarity. You may just have a bad OCV itself.
 
dinnerplate said:
P2088 tells me that whatever the wires were at originally were the correct polarity. You may just have a bad OCV itself.
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o_O:confused::2guns: I guess I am lucky I have a new OCV that I ordered last month. I am lost to why the code came up. I thought it was correct this time. Dam...so much cutting.
 
Changing out OCV tomorrow. Is the brown ground and the other positive? I am going to do a OCV power test on the old and new with a battery to see if this will truly solve the issue.
 
new OCV installed and struggle engine with P050A and P050B...I'm lost but I am going to google what is can be some more. so far and I am seeing dirty TB or failed spark plugs that I have to look into.
 
GCPhotographers said:
new OCV installed and struggle engine with P050A and P050B...I'm lost but I am going to google what is can be some more. so far and I am seeing dirty TB or failed spark plugs that I have to look into.
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Seems like someone else has had something similar before.

Could definitely be that, also a good idea to check coils and spark plugs, throttle body is super easy to clean, it’s just 4 bolts, two coolant lines, and a plug, use b12 chemical if you can get it from your local auto parts store, stuff will clean it out super fast, and a dirty throttle body can cause low or rough idles. My suggestion is to just take out one of the spark plugs to see how it looks, if it looks bad just replace them, and while you have the TMIC off just pull the throttle body off to clean it
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From
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dinnerplate said:
Seems like someone else has had something similar before.

Interesting to know that I saw this what you post on Google word or word off another blog.

From
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I saw the same post
 
OEM...I was thinking of getting a CS one because @Raider have been lucky with using so far. On the other hand, I was going to get a used oem one since they are cheap.
 
GCPhotographers said:
OEM...I was thinking of getting a CS one because @Raider have been lucky with using so far. On the other hand, I was going to get a used oem one since they are cheap.
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CorkSport throttle body failures are pretty common, which is why I ask. CorkSport quality has gone down a little bit in the past years, and for Mazdaspeeds in particular, their throttle bodies and their boost controllers. This is from my tuner though, do what you will with that information (the boost controller I can attest to, mine only lasted 4 months).
 
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