Oil pump question

TheAcumen

Greenie N00B Member
So I will be doing the VVT and timing set very soon and have been studying the timing related processes that the members of this forum have so kindly provided. I very much appreciate the efforts that went in to making these!

I noticed that there is no mention of replacing the oil pump chain, tensioner or guide while in there doing the timing components. It's also possible I just haven't come across this information yet. Does it make sense to replace the oil pump parts while doing the timing chain, or am I just creating work for myself?

I plan on buying the timing set/tools from Cork Sports, the local dealership wanted $1100 for the set, minus alignment tools. They didn't even have everything on hand. I noticed that there was no oil pump components with the CS timing kit and was wondering if that's the norm?

Thanks!
 
The VVT write up is super easy to follow. I did it in my garage by myself. Edge has a complete VVT kit with the chain and tensioner, all OEM parts. Definitely worth doing it all at once.
 
When you replace the timing components, all the crush washers must be replaced. So you will have to remove oil pump chain which in the 4 times I've done it is PIA, and chain needs to come out to get to washer. The oil pump bolt is a use once and replace according to manual. And you will have to remove bolt to get chain off pump to access the crush washer on crankshaft nose to reinstall a new one.
Remember no oil at all on any surface the special diamond washers touch when you reassemble.
 
When replacing the oil pump components did you just use a regular adjustable spanner wrench to hold the sprocket when removing/tightening the bolt?

When you replace the timing components, all the crush washers must be replaced. So you will have to remove oil pump chain which in the 4 times I've done it is PIA, and chain needs to come out to get to washer. The oil pump bolt is a use once and replace according to manual. And you will have to remove bolt to get chain off pump to access the crush washer on crankshaft nose to reinstall a new one.
Remember no oil at all on any surface the special diamond washers touch when you reassemble.
 
I tried my piece of shit one and 2 out of 4 yes the other two times since I was replacing chain I wedged hard wood dowel between chain and sprocket. I have a new build in progress and will make a spanner just for it. The spanner to sprocket holes with block cause a misalignment with typical universal adjustable spanners. The sprocket holes are large and can leverage apart the spanner "teeth" maybe a smarter mind than mine can give us a better sprocket holder. I might just use a old sprocket and butcher it up to make it.
 
Is the oil pump timed?

I tried my piece of shit one and 2 out of 4 yes the other two times since I was replacing chain I wedged hard wood dowel between chain and sprocket. I have a new build in progress and will make a spanner just for it. The spanner to sprocket holes with block cause a misalignment with typical universal adjustable spanners. The sprocket holes are large and can leverage apart the spanner "teeth" maybe a smarter mind than mine can give us a better sprocket holder. I might just use a old sprocket and butcher it up to make it.
 
No, pump sprocket had a D shaped socket that goes towards pump side, pump shaft is D shaped to fit. That's to keep pump shaft turning if bolt were to fail. With chain tensioner, guides you would likely get a few seconds of terrible noise to hopefully shut down.
Crank gear for pump / chain is just held in place by the special washers so no timing indexing.
 
Thanks!

No, pump sprocket had a D shaped socket that goes towards pump side, pump shaft is D shaped to fit. That's to keep pump shaft turning if bolt were to fail. With chain tensioner, guides you would likely get a few seconds of terrible noise to hopefully shut down.
Crank gear for pump / chain is just held in place by the special washers so no timing indexing.
 
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