South Bend Stage 3 Clutch Toast after 12k miles

Reece Andreychek

Reece Andreychek

Silver Member
Greenie N00B Member
Good morning, just yesterday I was giving my car the beans, and all of a sudden the clutch started slipping super bad. I made it back home but it wouldn't hold any boost at all. Currently running the South Bend Stage 3 SS Clutch. I did not abuse it all the time, and would do what I would consider "normal" fun for a 415whp MS6. I'm obviously a bit frustrated since this clutch is supposed to be rated for more than what I am currently running, but there's not much I can do now. Now I am looking into the ACT 6 puck kit. I have been told that they may have a loud throw-out bearing, can anyone confirm this / vouch for this kit? Currently at 415whp, 28ish psi, CST4, and e45. Thank you all in advance.
 
Reece Andreychek said:
Good morning, just yesterday I was giving my car the beans, and all of a sudden the clutch started slipping super bad. I made it back home but it wouldn't hold any boost at all. Currently running the South Bend Stage 3 SS Clutch. I did not abuse it all the time, and would do what I would consider "normal" fun for a 415whp MS6. I'm obviously a bit frustrated since this clutch is supposed to be rated for more than what I am currently running, but there's not much I can do now. Now I am looking into the ACT 6 puck kit. I have been told that they may have a loud throw-out bearing, can anyone confirm this / vouch for this kit? Currently at 415whp, 28ish psi, CST4, and e45. Thank you all in advance.
Click to expand...
Cst5 with South Bend Stage 3 Endurance kit.
 
You can probably recover it back to usability.

When slowing down and coming to a stop, slip the clutch enough that it still decelerates you but isn't at full grab; you can kinda pulse the clutch if you're unsure, but the goal is to rub the clutch in the opposite direction as much as possible. You'll likely need to do this for a weeks worth of city driving, as the process doesn't put as much load on the clutch as full grab does; just make sure you don't do any more WOT pulls until you've done this process a bunch, as more slippage can undo the work you've done to un-fuck it. I've done this a couple times to save my stock clutch, and by the time I was done doing the second unfuck procedure, it was holding 400 ish WTQ for short blasts no problem.

For confirmation: If you can log both engine RPM and wheel speed (MPH) during a WOT pull, you can throw that into a graph and if they follow the (roughly) same slope (no sudden jumps or changes in curve angle) then you know you've fixed it.
 
Single mass flywheel means clutch chatter. I had their stage 2 daily and it shit the bed at 40k. LUK all the things.
 
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