The shitboxster

mangosmoothie

Greenie N00B Member
Greenie Member
Been without a fun car for a while. Sold my ND almost a year ago for a Tacoma. Got the itch real bad for a project.

One of my friends in California got a decent 2000 boxster for like $3500 or so. He was having fun. I decided to look into it. Ive always wanted to try mid engine.

The boxster line is pretty interesting.

97-99 - 2.5, 5 speed. Great gear ratios. Dual row IMS not as prone to failure.

00 - 2.7 or 3.2 in the S. Rev limit raises to 7200 in both. 2.7 got revised ratios that are arguably worse. 3.2 got a 6 speed. Dual row IMS not as prone to failure.

01-04 - single IMS bearing that has probably the worst failure rate of any. Needs to be upgraded. Slight HP bump, changed from 7.2 to 7.8 DME. Not really sure what else changed to give more hp but it's pretty negligible.

05-06 987 series, same 2.7 or 3.2. power went up again. I know the air box changed, so did the exhaust. 05 still has the terrible IMS, 2006 has an upgraded larger single row IMS bearing which is better.

07-08 - m97 3.4 in the S, will bore score. Wasn't interested in that. The 2.7 is fine if you do the IMS.

09-12 987.2 - 2.7 became a 2.9 and got a 6 speed. For the S, m97 was replaced by the DI 9A1. Can still bore score but not nearly as bad as the m97. IMS issues mostly figured out.

I wasn't sure what to go for. The 2.9 6 speed was on the top of the list. Decent gear ratios. Should be as fast as the 986 S,. Kinda pricey and rate though. There were quite a few 986S on BAT and C&B I was watching as well.

Then I saw this 2000 S pop up on market place for $3k. 175k miles. New DWS06 tires. IMS was upgraded even though it was one of the better ones of the era. Paint is fucked, top needs tension cables. CEL comes and goes for rear O2 and sai. Went to see it. Owner has a book of service records. Clutch, IMS, timing chain pads all done around 125k. Wheel bearings last year. Took it for a drive and didn't notice anything off. Drove it 4 hours home no issues.

Got the under tray off and saw some oil. Spent a while cleaning everything. Looked like driver side bank was leaking oil from the plug tubes. Replaced all 6 of those and all 6 plugs. Did air oil separator while in there. Drove it some more and found second would crunch when cold. was able to tell it was leaking diff oil from passenger side.

Replaced the passenger side diff output seal (similar to a trans tail shaft seal). Ended up cross referencing parts like 3 times until I found a GM crankshaft seal that was similar size. Fit fine, leak is sealed. The good ole tribodyn 75w90 ex2 fixed the second gear crunch when cold.

Now that maintenance is out of the way... Looking into some mods.

Decat exhaust and intake mod is good for probably 20 whp or so. Along with a lithium battery and stripping the trunk/frunk it's like 120 lbs of weight shedded. This should make it about as fast as the 3.4 S's. The rest of world (ROW) cars don't have sai or secondary O2s that monitor cats. First plan was to just flash a ROW tune on it.

I got a bootleg PIWIS 3 which is Porsche diag software. Problem is I need a DME code to do anything. Only Porsche will give this to you. Neither dealer I called was helpful.

Now I'm looking into MPPS to read/flash. I ordered the bootleg temu v18 cable. Also found a download online. So I'll get that going and see what happens. If I can read the file, chipwizards in the UK will remote tune me. If I can't, then I'll ship the DME to him. Or I can ship the DME to ecudoctors who can do the ROW flash.

Some guys do plenum/manifold/TB upgrades and run a 996 911 tune. More aggressive timing. But I can't get into my DME through piwis so I'm kinda out of luck. Chipwizards also advised not to do any of that.

After that I'll just enjoy it. Mine has the M030 suspension package so I don't really need to do anything there. I don't like the wheels, but 17" options are very limited and these are super light.

So far it's been really easy to work on. Autohaus AZ has almost every part. Because I live in AZ it's basically overnight shipping.

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Pretty sweet, should be a fund project. I thought if I ever get tired of the rx8 of getting one to LS swap.
 
I think it's the exact same as flashark and whatever is on eBay. I should just order the headers too.

I'm worried about drone, so I may modify the stock muffler. There's a way to drill holes on the inlet inside the box and it'll bypass all the muffling if there's a big pressure differential.
 
Ordered flashark headers for 108 shipped.

Now I'm at a tuning impasse. I wasn't able to get my DME code to flash from Porsche Tucson or Scottsdale. If I had this, I could flash a ROW tune myself, or a 911 ROW tune. Rumor is 911 tune has more aggressive timing. So anyway

1. Send ECU to ecudoctor in USA and get a ROW flash for my year. No performance benefit, but disables sai and secondary O2s

2. Buy flash from softronic. He tunes the 986 spec series, but other people don't seem thrilled.

3. Send ECU to chipwizards in UK and let him flash it.

I'm not the biggest fan of telling someone my mods and getting them to make a one and done tune for it. If it isn't right then I'm screwed.
 
Outside of a monsoon, can someone smarter than me explain why having a cone filter here would be worse than a stock intake box?

The stock intake box is probably the biggest restriction on the car. Everyone says to do a 987 air box but that's a bitch because the MAF housing is a different size and there's no easy way to address that. I still can't get in to tune it.

The stock air box has a snorkel coming out to that same spot anyway.

But all the forum posts say don't run a cone, bad.

I can't fathom why. It's in the same temp as the stock air box. But if it heat soaks it should cool off in a few seconds. And you can make a firewall plate to keep most of the heat out anyway, or as well as a stock intake works.

Is there any reason an airbox would work better?
 

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Water would be the only concern I think
 
Porsche people are weird about Porsche engineers being the only people smart enough to understand how to work on cars.
 
Bad news, full exhaust is too loud. I want to keep the axleback because it drops like 25 lbs. I also want to keep the headers. So either resonated mid pipes or stock mid pipes and hope for the best
 
Did an entire suspension refresh. B6 shocks (ordered from damond motorsports), all new LCA, track arms, toe arms, bump stops, top hats, end links, CV reboot.

Mine has M030 option which has good springs and away bars so I reused those.

I did a string alignment and Amazon camber gauge. The front struts I maxed out. Only got -.75* camber. Did 1mm toe out each side. Rears I wanted similar camber and 1mm toe in. -1* was as close as I could get. Any more positive and I was stuck with big toe in.

I deleted SAI to simplify vac lines, I believe I have a vac leak. While in there replaced an oil fill tube. So now I just have 2 vac lines. 1 is for the intake resonance flapper (basically a throttle body that closes the second plenum under vacuum) and the other is from the fuel pressure reg to the plenum. Before there were diverter valves, vacuum canisters, 4 way connectors, air pump, etc. I was a bit disappointed it all weighed 4 lbs. The forums led me to believe it was 15 lbs.

The forums also misled me with some other items. The insulation in the engine bay was only like 3 lbs. Convertible top motor and transmissions were 10 lbs, not 15.

Oh well. 20 lbs not nothing I guess. I'm not trying to make it a stripper track car but I'm pulling some weight from it where I easily can with minimal impact.

Lastly I did a little audio rehab. The rear speakers weren't working. Factory was 4 6 ohm 3" speakers. I pulled them and replaced with 2 6x4 cheapy pioneers. Android Auto head unit (power acoustik), kicker ks dash speakers. Retained factory amp for the dash and door speakers (didn't change the doors. Factory amp routes only low to the door 6x9 and haven't heard much success replacing just those speakers). I ran the rear pioneers off the head unit (also how stock was done, not off the amp). Overall great success. Android Auto works, and it's louder which is what I was after.

After this is some seats. Leaning towards corbeau recliners. Then maybe a deep sump and 200 tw. Fix what breaks as needed. The big scary skeleton is the bank 2 variocam pad. It's a drop the engine to fix sort of deal.... Haven't noticed tensioner pad material in oil or weird noises... So might ride that out.
 

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Decently cleaner with sai out of the way

I have the gear wrench 10mm socket set, but the 1/4 drive magnetic short socket was amazing for this. That plus a wobble was easy work of the intake mani bolts. I wish all my sockets were magnetic now. https://a.co/d/5iOThPn
 

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