Wire Fuel Pump - Hellcat 525LPH or any Big LPFP

JohnnyTightlips

JohnnyTightlips

Motorhead
The stock mazda fuel wire appears to be 14-12awg it might be less but it is hard to tell. I was having some strange lean issues and this seemed to help. I re-wired the pump with a dedicated 10awg wire and a relay. The hellcat pump can def pull more amps than the stock stuff is rated for. I am not going to say this is necessary as I don't know anyone else who has needed to do this but as the cars get older the wires get crappier and this gave me the warm and fuzzies knowing it was getting proper amperage vs guessing.

I bought a set of these. LINK
upload_2020-10-7_13-2-54.png
and
LINK - You would likely be fine with just a 30amp fuse , follow your heart
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and
LINK
upload_2020-10-7_13-4-14.png

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I already had most of that laying around so that is why I decided to do this. It was not a very big job just takes time to solder and heatshrink. I tapped into my aftermarket amplifier for power as I was already running a clean 4awg wire to it so it was easy to branch off that. Most people will want to run it to the battery + terminal.

I have noticed since doing this that fuel pressure is a few PSI higher and seems to be more stable.

On the relay I bought here is the color scheme and what it goes to.

  • RED - 30 - feed wire from battery
  • 87A - Not used
  • BLUE - 87 - when cutting stock 12V green pump wire, this is to the pump
  • WHITE - 86 - when cutting stock 12V pump green wire, this is to the car "signal to engage the relay"
  • BLACK - 85 - ground "I grounded them all the car body right by the pump.
The stock harness has 4 wires in it. Two for pump "power and ground" Two for fuel level sensor. Easy to tell the pump ones as they are thicker gauge. The GREEN THICK wire is the + to the fuel pump.
upload_2020-10-7_13-6-13.png

The other day my pump would not turn on. It did after a few tries but I checked and everything was solid. @andale927 mentioned that the stock fuel pump resistor might not be sending enough volts as it does low voltage at startup and idle. I decided to bypass this as I no longer need it and I have not had another issue. Will update here if I do.

I just unplugged it and added a jumper. If I could find a spare plug to do it I would but this works for now.

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JohnnyTightlips said:
The stock mazda fuel wire appears to be 14-12awg it might be less but it is hard to tell. I was having some strange lean issues and this seemed to help. I re-wired the pump with a dedicated 10awg wire and a relay. The hellcat pump can def pull more amps than the stock stuff is rated for. I am not going to say this is necessary as I don't know anyone else who has needed to do this but as the cars get older the wires get crappier and this gave me the warm and fuzzies knowing it was getting proper amperage vs guessing.

I bought a set of these. LINK
View attachment 16020
and
LINK - You would likely be fine with just a 30amp fuse , follow your heart
View attachment 16021
and
LINK
View attachment 16023

View attachment 16025

I already had most of that laying around so that is why I decided to do this. It was not a very big job just takes time to solder and heatshrink. I tapped into my aftermarket amplifier for power as I was already running a clean 4awg wire to it so it was easy to branch off that. Most people will want to run it to the battery + terminal.

I have noticed since doing this that fuel pressure is a few PSI higher and seems to be more stable.

On the relay I bought here is the color scheme and what it goes to.

  • RED - 30 - feed wire from battery
  • 87A - Not used
  • BLUE - 87 - when cutting stock 12V green pump wire, this is to the pump
  • WHITE - 86 - when cutting stock 12V pump green wire, this is to the car "signal to engage the relay"
  • BLACK - 85 - ground "I grounded them all the car body right by the pump.
The stock harness has 4 wires in it. Two for pump "power and ground" Two for fuel level sensor. Easy to tell the pump ones as they are thicker gauge. The GREEN THICK wire is the + to the fuel pump.
View attachment 16024

The other day my pump would not turn on. It did after a few tries but I checked and everything was solid. @andale927 mentioned that the stock fuel pump resistor might not be sending enough volts as it does low voltage at startup and idle. I decided to bypass this as I no longer need it and I have not had another issue. Will update here if I do.

I just unplugged it and added a jumper. If I could find a spare plug to do it I would but this works for now.

View attachment 16044
View attachment 16045
Click to expand...
So so I need to replace INFP? O wanted to run it with surge tank from RADIUM with HELLCAT PUMP.
 
Sure you could do that but you would need to replace the intake fuel pump still because ours cannot support more fuel. Think about it of you need to replace the pump to run more in injectors, and you want to run them off a surge tank your supply to the surge tank has to be able to support both demands.
 
Awafrican said:
Sure you could do that but you would need to replace the intake fuel pump still because ours cannot support more fuel. Think about it of you need to replace the pump to run more in injectors, and you want to run them off a surge tank your supply to the surge tank has to be able to support both demands.
Click to expand...
Sort of, if you do not pull all the fuel from the surge tank during a pull and it has time to catch up between pulls you would be fine. The OEM pump might be able to keep a surge tank topped off. If I was going to do the surge route I would stick an AEM pump in the stock basket and have that feed the surge tank as they are pretty cheap and drop in. The main point of a surge tank is to make sure you don't have any fuel starvation issues when fuel is sloshing all around at lower levels in the main tank.
 
Awafrican said:
Sure you could do that but you would need to replace the intake fuel pump still because ours cannot support more fuel. Think about it of you need to replace the pump to run more in injectors, and you want to run them off a surge tank your supply to the surge tank has to be able to support both demands.
Click to expand...
As per tuner he said negative,I actually have the hellcat in the surge tank,and also aeromotive
Suppsdly for the in tank,but he said there is no need for the intank if im goin full return with the surge tank..can somebody pls verify thanks

JohnnyTightlips said:
Sort of, if you do not pull all the fuel from the surge tank during a pull and it has time to catch up between pulls you would be fine. The OEM pump might be able to keep a surge tank topped off. If I was going to do the surge route I would stick an AEM pump in the stock basket and have that feed the surge tank as they are pretty cheap and drop in. The main point of a surge tank is to make sure you don't have any fuel starvation issues when fuel is sloshing all around at lower levels in the main tank.
Click to expand...
I figure i might as well install it since i already have it,so reuse what basket again?? Or i can replace tht as well
 
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Vhinrye said:
As per tuner he said negative,I actually have the hellcat in the surge tank,and also aeromotive
Suppsdly for the in tank,but he said there is no need for the intank if im goin full return with the surge tank..can somebody pls verify thanks


I figure i might as well install it since i already have it,so reuse what basket again?? Or i can replace tht as well
Click to expand...
Aeromotive will just drop in but I am not sure about keeping stock pressure regulator in the main tank , it is built into the basket. I don't use mine as I have a FPR in the bay. It would not hurt to swap the main tank pump but I would ask the tuner about the in tank regulator and how that will play with the surge setup. I would personally rather have a fresh pump in the tank before I started doing hood rat shit.
 
JohnnyTightlips said:
Aeromotive will just drop in but I am not sure about keeping stock pressure regulator in the main tank , it is built into the basket. I don't use mine as I have a FPR in the bay. It would not hurt to swap the main tank pump but I would ask the tuner about the in tank regulator and how that will play with the surge setup. I would personally rather have a fresh pump in the tank before I started doing hood rat shit.
Click to expand...
Yeah i ask Will he said there no need for it,I mean my oem still good,I have the FPR its the universal from AEM,like what speed6erformanc3 had in the PI kit.
JohnnyTightlips said:
Aeromotive will just drop in but I am not sure about keeping stock pressure regulator in the main tank , it is built into the basket. I don't use mine as I have a FPR in the bay. It would not hurt to swap the main tank pump but I would ask the tuner about the in tank regulator and how that will play with the surge setup. I would personally rather have a fresh pump in the tank before I started doing hood rat shit.
Click to expand...
So Johnny do have any diagram regarding your set up?? If I may pls thank you

Ill do the same as u did,ill hit u up when my block comes in everything else is on stand by just waiting,thought i plan out my execution...what is your pro and cons on PTE 6062 vs 6266gen2
 
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My setup is this and I have had fuel for over 600 whp but I am not sure how much more I could push it.

Hellcat pump in tank to 8an feed line to firewall
Feed 8an to 8an-6an-6an Y adapter on the firewall
6an to HPFP
6an to PI Fuel Rail - PI Fuel Rail to Aeromotive FPR - FPR to OEM feed line "now a return" back to the tank.
 
JohnnyTightlips said:
My setup is this and I have had fuel for over 600 whp but I am not sure how much more I could push it.

Hellcat pump in tank to 8an feed line to firewall
Feed 8an to 8an-6an-6an Y adapter on the firewall
6an to HPFP
6an to PI Fuel Rail - PI Fuel Rail to Aeromotive FPR - FPR to OEM feed line "now a return" back to the tank.
Click to expand...
I see is there a limit to that set up comparing to surge tank set up?what is the surge tank use for then? Sorry if u find this redicolous,,trying to wrap my head around it honestly on what advantage betweem the 2 set up.
 
@Sho what is he hellcat setup rated for? The main win for the surge tank is that you don't have to worry about fuel starvation from being half tank and it sloshing around in the fuel tank when you are going WOT which could cause lean bad times. For my power level "600 whp" it was not needed and more of a nice to have.
 
In a surge tank, this is the highest HP I've seen that pump support on this platform. Skip to 9:20

Template public:_media_site_embed_youtube not found. Try rebuilding or reinstalling the s9e/MediaSites add-on.
 
Bosch pump upgrades in rx7s typically need 12ga wire, this is a great post for anyone upgrading the ITFP.
 
JohnnyTightlips said:
The stock mazda fuel wire appears to be 14-12awg it might be less but it is hard to tell. I was having some strange lean issues and this seemed to help. I re-wired the pump with a dedicated 10awg wire and a relay. The hellcat pump can def pull more amps than the stock stuff is rated for. I am not going to say this is necessary as I don't know anyone else who has needed to do this but as the cars get older the wires get crappier and this gave me the warm and fuzzies knowing it was getting proper amperage vs guessing.

I bought a set of these. LINK
View attachment 16020
and
LINK - You would likely be fine with just a 30amp fuse , follow your heart
View attachment 16021
and
LINK
View attachment 16023

View attachment 16025

I already had most of that laying around so that is why I decided to do this. It was not a very big job just takes time to solder and heatshrink. I tapped into my aftermarket amplifier for power as I was already running a clean 4awg wire to it so it was easy to branch off that. Most people will want to run it to the battery + terminal.

I have noticed since doing this that fuel pressure is a few PSI higher and seems to be more stable.

On the relay I bought here is the color scheme and what it goes to.

  • RED - 30 - feed wire from battery
  • 87A - Not used
  • BLUE - 87 - when cutting stock 12V green pump wire, this is to the pump
  • WHITE - 86 - when cutting stock 12V pump green wire, this is to the car "signal to engage the relay"
  • BLACK - 85 - ground "I grounded them all the car body right by the pump.
The stock harness has 4 wires in it. Two for pump "power and ground" Two for fuel level sensor. Easy to tell the pump ones as they are thicker gauge. The GREEN THICK wire is the + to the fuel pump.
View attachment 16024

The other day my pump would not turn on. It did after a few tries but I checked and everything was solid. @andale927 mentioned that the stock fuel pump resistor might not be sending enough volts as it does low voltage at startup and idle. I decided to bypass this as I no longer need it and I have not had another issue. Will update here if I do.

I just unplugged it and added a jumper. If I could find a spare plug to do it I would but this works for now.

View attachment 16044
View attachment 16045
Click to expand...
Johny thanks for all the resources u the man brotha
 
Got everything hooked up but no turn over preasure is good ground us good,both pump works 0.7 volts,noe im lost
 
Guys I really hope someone can help me out. I have a dw300c as my ifp, I have a speed6. Since that has been changed I can only use the gas in my main tank, and the pump doesn't syphon over fuel from the other tank. I have a 6an feed line and use the oem line as return. I also have a fpr after my fuel rail. The in tank regulator is stopped from opening by a pin we inserted so it can't move.
Do you have any advice or idea?

Sent from my KB2003 using Tapatalk
 
Unfortunately I think I have.
Any tips what to check for exactly?

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Since hes using the oem feed as a return. He cannot use the stock siphon. Which is his issue. He'll have to get a radium venturi and run that as the return
 
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