p2177 and p2187 and p0300(only on WOT)

Hello, My engine has been running lean with high fuel trims, the LTFT being at 20.3 and STFT being atleast 15% or greater on idle. I looked over
https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/raiders-p2187-on-a-2007-mazdaspeed-3.6984/
and decided to take it to a mechanic. They did a smoke test and smoke came out of the turbo intake boot (which they fixed), the EGR valve, VVT actuator to valve cover, and the BOV.

They said the BOV apparently had the biggest leak, not in terms of the vaccum lines, but its leaking at the BOV itself. Apparently, when they pinch the vaccum line on the BOV valve, the fuel trims fix themselves immediately.

I looked into this a little on my own, and online says that you cant exactly preform a smoke test for a BOV since its not in its running condition, or something of that sort. That being said, I was wondering if the BOV was actually the problem, or something else such as the BOV is not recirculating, or maybe something completely different. Please let me know any thoughts.

The mods I have on my car is:
AEM cold air intake
Turbosmart dual port BOV

I only have a basic OBD test tool so it might be hard for me to get data.

Thank you in advance

 

Listen to the shop. either the spring has failed or your Aftermarket valve has the wrong spring in it and it's opening under vacuum and bringing in unmetered air from the intake hence pinching the hose fixing trims.

Is everything else fixed?

 

The Turbo inlet leak was fixed already. The EGR, and the VVT actuator to valve cover leak have not been fixed yet since they’re relatively minor. The mechanic told me to fix the minor leaks after I fix the BOV(major leak). I was thinking of just rebuilding the BOV. There’s also a harder and softer option on the BOV but I don’t think that fixed the issue here, I will try it out sometime soon.

 

The bov is likely stuck I doubt that the different springs will fix the problem without a good clean and lube

 

I’m planning on lubing and cleaning up the BOV insides in a few days, I’ll update on what it does

 

Update: Cleaned the BOV and lubed it up. There was a O-ring missing at the top of it, replaced it and the leak is fixed. Fuel trims are still bad but better. The mechanic told me today that its likely that i would need to change gapping, and the type of spark plug. Car might be tuned but i wouldn't know since i just bought it. I was wondering what spark plugs to run. One step colder? I think im currently on irdium (previous owner changed the spark plugs and i'm not exactly sure of the exact model.)

 

I just saw your post on spark plugs. I am a bit of a novice when it comes to these things. Would this be the NGK iridium 1 step colder spark plugs?
https://www.napacanada.com/en/p/NGK6510
I don't exactly know where to buy performace parts for this car yet.

Also the EGR is apparently leaking in such a way that cleaning it wont fix it. It would have to be replaced. I'm thinking of doing a block off instead since new OEM ones cost like $700. That or one from rockauto.com.

 

Nevermind I found some stock at a store near me. Ill update how the car works once I put the plugs in

 

You don't need colder plugs

 

Is it just the lean condition causing the misfires then? My mechanic said it needs colder plugs since it misfires under boost/ heavy throttle

 

Fix your boost leaks, gap plugs 0.026-0.028"

Yes lean condition will absolutely cause misfires

 

Unless you are over 450 hp or so you don't need colder plugs. Check the gap on the current plugs

 

Sounds good. I will work towards my EGR for now in that case. Thank you for the input!

 

So apparently, the previous owner says that the spark plugs are gapped at 0.054. Apparrently thats what the OE-reccomended gaps are for this spark plug. I will get those regapped tmrw. For the EGR. Whats the easiest thing to do to fix that leak? Replace it, delete it/block it off?

 

That is not the factory gap for a speed. Mzr maybe

 

It’s the Bosch double iridium 96302 spark plugs

 

That might be Bosch pre gap spec but that Is in no way shape or form mazdas reccomeended gap.
NGK LTR6IX-11 (6509): Stock Heat Range
NGK ILTR6A-8G (3787): Stock Heat Range
Is what I'd run 0.026-.028" gap
https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/spark-plug-data-base.1436/

 

I’ll get those spark plugs in soon, thank you!

 

As far as EGR you'll have to replace it if you want to keep the EGR, block off will be cheaper.

If you ditch the EGR you will have a CEL btw and depending on where you live may not pass emissions.

 

Is it recommended to get OEM EGR? Or can I get an aftermarket one- something rock auto says works on my car?