Do you have FP prime power at the in tank fuel pump? Test light should kick on, then turn off
Also, check the ENG fuse in the interior fuse block. That fuse controls both fuel pump relays aswell.
Year of car also please.
If you had more than one low cylinder I wouldn't put my money on this method or a severely low cylinder. Knowing the owner of this MS6 before Geoff, I knew the ringlands weren't going. The car was babied (which can also be bad for a DI).
Honestly, 165 isn't the end of the world. 135 and below...
We used to free up rings on GM northstar vehicles weekly with this method from oil consumption/low comp. I figured what the hell, mind as well try it. Just soaking the pistons overnight made a difference. The car ran much smoother too. I suggested to geoff that a compression test is needed after...
Thanks for the tools man. This is a perfect fit for an on car VVT job. These will save alot of time at work. For all you eastern MI folk, I have one if ever needed.
There is no torque spec for the fuel rail sensor as it comes from the factory with the fuel rail. They are considered a one time use upon removal/tampered with. Fuel leaks may be evident overtime, rather than instantly. I'd say do it, but I don't wanna see a car burn down and know that I said it...
I use a snap on kit. Comes with everything you need. If you've never done this, I'd suggest getting ahold of someone who does. The cut has to be square, as stated above. Along with deburring, cleaning the line before cutting, correct flare nut, ect. Good news is these are a bubble style flare...
Just cut the end line off and re-flare it. You can slowly bend the line out and make a tool fit. Just dont kink it. Replacing lines aren't that bad, but I have a hoist. You can also bend a whole new line end from end. I highly suggest that you don't section a line.