When I put some oil over the chain before putting the VC back on, is it ok for the VVT actuator and other camshaft sprocket to get oil on them? Thanks.
Ok finally got the crank bolt done. No lube this time.
When oiling the lifter that goes inside the fuel pump, should I oil the inside of it also, or just the outside? Also, should the rubber o-ring replacement for the fuel pump be oiled as well? Thanks.
So I tried doing the crank pulley bolt but I think I may have made a mistake somewhere as I was only able to get it to about 30 degrees after the initial torque to 70 ft lbs. I also used ARP ultra-torque lube on the bolt.
When I did the initial torque I think I may have gone over 70 ft lbs...
Hey sorry to revive an old thread. I noticed when your intake cam is at TDC with the alignment tool in, the top of rightmost lobe (the one that is usually hidden in the fuel pump housing) is laying pretty flat. Maybe it's just the angle of the photos. Mine is crooked and I am little worried...
Original: Thanks again everybody. Okay so I just replaced the VVT actuator and when I was reinstalling the C.A.P. I was having a hard time getting the intake cam to line up to fit the plate. When I would turn the intake cam towards the rear of the car with a wrench, I would notice some...
So I shouldn't have the camshaft alignment plate (CAP) in when removing the crank pulley bolt, correct? I'm seeing conflicting advice on this step.
I'm guessing having the M6x1 bolt threaded through will keep the crank at TDC? (planning to use impact to take off bolt). Thanks again so much.
Thanks again for all the help especially to the OP.
In this thread: https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/timing-the-mzr-disi.8722/
He mentions removing the camshafts first when finding TDC as to not damage a valve. I don't believe that applies to the standard method of finding TDC with...