Timing the MZR DISI

[JohnnyTightlips]

Timing the Motor - it's not that bad

Here is the quick and dirty of timing this motor.

1. Take Cams Out
2. Set Cyl 1 to TDC and use TDC Pin "double check with a wooden spoon or something"
3. Install Cams
4. Install Cam Alignment Tool - Keep VVT and Exhaust Sprocket loose but attached
5. Install Timing Bits - add total tension to chain via tension tool
6. Tighten Cam Bolts so that VVT and Exhaust Sprocket no longer spin freely "exhaust side first"
7. Install Timing Cover
8. Install Crank Pulley and bolt to hold it in position
9. Verify TDC is still correct
10. Tighten Crank bolt
11. Done

The main thing about timing is that all the gears are loose in their spots until you get tension on the chain. Once the tension is there you can lock them into place as you are really setting them to wherever the cams and crank are based on the tools you have securing them into place.

Now lets get into the long and boring procedure.

1. Remove the cams so you don't smack a valve trying to find TDC
2. Find TDC , I ended up using a wooden spoon and a plate I had lying around. I used the metal plate to scratch the spoon when I though it was TDC then a rotated the crank to see if the scratch would get any higher than the plate and it never did.
3. 
   
   
4. Once you know that it is good up top you can take out the bolt on the block and replace it with the TDC bolt tool. It should be snug up against the crank. Mine did not need to be adjusted and worked great thanks @Maisonvi if your TDC bolt is not correct verify with TDC on the cylinders as that is the end all be all for TDC or get a better quality bolt as it should work.
5. 
   
   
6. 
   
   
7. Now that your Cyl one is TDC and the bolt is holding it in place we need to re-install the cams.
8. I recommend loosening the cam bolts with an impact before you re-install. IN green on the pic below is where you can put a cresscent wrench to hold the cam while you impact the bolt OFF. Should take 1 dakka dakka.
9. If you are standing facing the cams on the gear side have the lobes I circled in red face the direction of the arrows like in the pic. This will make sure when the cams get tightened down that they are close to alignment and will not smash a valve into cyl 1 or 4
10. 
    
    
11. Now re-install your cam caps except for this one. "unless your tool fits with it , mine did not"
12. 
13. Use a crescent wrench to align the cams "should be minor movements" and insert the tool. This holds the cams in place so that they are in time now.
14. 
    
    
15. It should not take much force to get it in just keep working the cams a little bit and inspect until it slides into its home.
16. YOU DID IT, the motor is now in time, wow , that wasn't too hard "that's what she said"

 

[Mauro_Penguin]

I have a couple of questions for you, since of course you did all this recently...

1) what timing tools did you use? I helped a Nator brethren swap head studs about 4 years ago. He had purchased the Massive Timing Tool set. While the timing plate worked great, the TDC crank bolt was garbage.

2) We used some crescent wrenches to hold the cams, since a couple of guys had cracked their cams using the plate alone. Do you by chance remember what size wrenches the cams require to hold them in place? If you dont, no worries, I can figure it out when the time comes.

Thank you!

 

[JohnnyTightlips]

I have a couple of questions for you, since of course you did all this recently...

1) what timing tools did you use? I helped a Nator brethren swap head studs about 4 years ago. He had purchased the Massive Timing Tool set. While the timing plate worked great, the TDC crank bolt was garbage.

2) We used some crescent wrenches to hold the cams, since a couple of guys had cracked their cams using the plate alone. Do you by chance remember what size wrenches the cams require to hold them in place? If you dont, no worries, I can figure it out when the time comes.

Thank you!

@Maisonvi had a kit he had machined himself and it was spot on. If you whisper sweet nothings to him I bet he would make you a bolt for the TDC then use the massive plate. I also used a crescent wrench to hold the cam in place which worked great just make sure you snug it up nice. I left the plate in which I know people say not to do but I also trusted myself to apply equal force to the crescent and to the torque wrench. I had no issues with breaking the cams.

 

[Maisonvi]

@Maisonvi had a kit he had machined himself and it was spot on. If you whisper sweet nothings to him I bet he would make you a bolt for the TDC then use the massive plate. I also used a crescent wrench to hold the cam in place which worked great just make sure you snug it up nice. I left the plate in which I know people say not to do but I also trusted myself to apply equal force to the crescent and to the torque wrench. I had no issues with breaking the cams.

Yeah if anyone needs a bolt I can make those up. Im not really in a spot to make plates right now.

and I too like @JohnnyTightlips left the plate when torquing. Just feels safer to me.

 

[Cam0070]

Any chance someone knows the thread pitch and length of the tdc bolt? I apparently didn't torque it after doing the VVT from months ago, and it's worked it way out and puked out all the oil.

 

[djmano]

Hey sorry to revive an old thread. I noticed when your intake cam is at TDC with the alignment tool in, the top of rightmost lobe (the one that is usually hidden in the fuel pump housing) is laying pretty flat. Maybe it's just the angle of the photos. Mine is crooked and I am little worried something is wrong.

 

[JohnnyTightlips]

Hey sorry to revive an old thread. I noticed when your intake cam is at TDC with the alignment tool in, the top of rightmost lobe (the one that is usually hidden in the fuel pump housing) is laying pretty flat. Maybe it's just the angle of the photos. Mine is crooked and I am little worried something is wrong.

As long as the timing tool fits and everything else is correct I am sure it is fine.