Recent content by originalmarshmello

Long story short I accidentally discovered that it was related to the passenger door sensor. It worked enough to turn the light on the dash off, but not enough to tell the computer to go to sleep. I tried cleaning out the contacts with maf cleaner and it worked for the night, but kept going...

I opened mine up, nothing looked off. Gonna try using a power probe to diagnose the systems running off that to see if anything is broken.

So I went through and tried disconnecting all the fuses from the PJB, no luck. I then traced out this aftermarket remote start system which I didn’t realize was there, and I was sure that had to be it… still nothing. Now, I’ve narrowed it down to this connector on the PJB. If I unplug it, the...

I forgot to update y’all but I noticed some loose wiring when I reinstalled my PJB the other day. Previous owner seems to have failed basic wiring class and there was one black with orange wire completely disconnected, which may have just recently come loose causing some of this. Here’s a...

I got the metal membership (I needed to renew it anyways so good timing) and looked into the PJB. On my 2009, when I unplug the PJB the draw goes to right around 30mA. I tried pulling all the fuses in it but none of them affect the drain as far as I can tell. I’m guessing at this point the PJB...

Does anyone have or know where to find electrical diagrams showing what circuits run off the fuses? If I had one of those I could at least have some direction to test components to see where my electricity is going.

Year/Make/Model: 2009 Mazdaspeed3 Mileage: 166,450 Location: Arroyo Grande, California Concern: battery started draining within a few days out of the blue DTC's: None Modifications: BNRS4, Autotech HPFP, HTP 3.5” intake, ETS TMIC, GFB t9002 hybrid BOV, turboxs DP + RP, Cobb CBE, Damond TMM +...

I pulled mine apart recently and was able to JB weld it back to a functional state. A nice fix for the time being.

Yes, I have. It reads 0 all the time, regardless. I have tried manually bypassing the EBCS and directly connecting the hose to the wastegate pot and it did not change my boost creep either. Not a EBCS issue as far as I can tell. At this point I feel like either I just need to go with a manifold...

Ever since I got this turbo (BNRS4) from a buddy and installed it, I've been getting boost creep all the way to 22 psi on spring pressure. The internal wastegate is opening, but not enough to vent the boost built. By swapping out a new one, I've already verified that the wastegate actuator isn't...

Turns out my issue was with an ignition coil. I had just replaced the oem ones (causing spark blowout) with brand new densos from rock auto. One of those failed, I got it warrantied, and now seems to be working fine.

I am having a similar gremlin appearing at wot, and was planning to test this relief valve on my AP. How much drop in pressure after shutting off is acceptable? None? My car seems to run, albeit +15 on the fuel trims, without obvious misfire at low to even moderate engine load, but on wot it...

I cannot confirm nor deny this working for your application unfortunately. To the best of my knowledge, the gen 2 logic is different as Awafrican stated. That being said, if there was a trick to remove the CEL, this would be the way to make it work. You could try using the smaller restriction...

I took the turbo in to my Tuner, he said it looks fine. The play is normal. He said there may have been a crap filter on there that let some stuff through, which caused the scratch marks. Worst case scenario I have to send it in to get rebuilt. time to full send I guess ;)

I emailed BNR, and he said “I machined the housings from v3-4 back when I ran out of inventory.. You’re good.” Something feels off with this. I want it to work but I have a feeling there may be more wear than $200 off is worth. I reckon I’ll just buy a new one this time, unless one of you...