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no i need the other side from what is shown on your link. the one on your link is what is on the harness side, but i need a connector that i can attach to my MAC 3 way solenoid valve to replace my factory valve. i'll PM you with my address and we can go from there. thanks man!

Hey man do you know if this connector kit: https://harnessedperformance.com/mazda/protege/99-03/electrical/knock-sensor-connector/ is that the same connector that's used on the boost control solenoid? I am in canada, and trying to find it, but the only place i've found it so far is ballenger...

You still around @Maisonvi ?

ok, so first off about the spill valve tightness..... really not sure how tight to go. i tried to snug it up a little more after my last attempt, since after my last attempt i was still not going over 1200 PSI. Well, after a tiny bit tighter (and realistically probably about as tight as I think...

That's fair, I'll have a look through that thread. I'm surprised seeing the heavier oils but I'm guessing that's for motors that are more built or what? And a question, if guys are running 10w40 and that's no issue, why would 0w40 be an issue? The 0w just gives a lighter cold and start-up...

understood about the mobil 1, i didn't pay a lot for it tbh, it was on sale for pretty cheap. i wanted 0w40 because it gets cold af here, and 0w for startups really can't be a bad thing, and 40 just gives a bit more room on the upper end of viscosity and can give a bit of extra protection to...

ok so a little update here, and wanted to point out a couple of things that i'm not sure if i mentioned earlier... i pulled the hpfp back off, pulled it apart again and cleaned it completely with naptha, lubed everything fairly liberally in redline injector cleaner. gave the piston a bit of...

what kind of oil are you supposed to use in your engine to not foul the hpfp, and when you say the fuel matters, do you mean if you add/use corn on top of dino's?

i don't understand why corksport would make it out like you should take all this shit apart when it isn't necessary. thats so frustrating.'

also the order of the parts that are in the lower section of the damper in the guide linked here are wrong. corksport guide shows the correct order. the metal ring goes right below the copper belleville washer, not below the damper plate piece.

just to clarify do i use the redline to lube the orings, or use vaseline or silicone like the link shows?

def checked it from as many angles as possible and it's closed up there's no gap i lubed mostly using seafoam because it's ingredients show petroleum distillates. thought that would work ok. running Esso brand 94 octane, basically highest grade available from stations. vehicle is mostly stock...

it's definitely seated all the way down if i look all around the seam between the pump body and the cam extension housing piece, definintely no gap at all anywhere. does that matter?

How would the pump be installed off center? I will say it was a bit hard to install all the way, but i gently tightened all bolts by like a quarter turn at a time and it went in nice and easily. should i pull it and try to get it back in again? what would make it hard to get back in? the spill...

So I just had my HPFP apart to upgrade the internals and rebuild it by changing all o-rings, and at the same time I upgraded the intake to a corksport 3" power series. I updated the MAF calibration to the calibration info that corksport provides for this intake. the hpfp did give me a bit of a...