help! low HPFP pressure after upgfrading internals and rebuilding!

kayarepea

kayarepea

SpectrumSparky
Silver Member
So I just had my HPFP apart to upgrade the internals and rebuild it by changing all o-rings, and at the same time I upgraded the intake to a corksport 3" power series. I updated the MAF calibration to the calibration info that corksport provides for this intake. the hpfp did give me a bit of a hassle with the spill valve being somewhat seized up, but soaking it in some seafoam for half hour allowed it to move inside of the threaded housing and i was able to push the center out and change the o ring and get everything back together. i was really careful with the whole valve, cleaning everything really well but also being damn sure everything went back together properly and correctly. screwed the spill valve back into the hpfp lightly, reinstalled the hpfp onto the engine, then poured a bit of seafoam into the spill valve and then snugged it back up very lightly. restarted and saw the hpfp presssure was super low (like under 100), went out and snugged the spill valve up a bit more and the pressure came back up to around 350 psi or so. but as the engine ran, the pressure came back down to a bit under 200. when i rev up the engine a little it does come up over 500, but it defintely does not come up NEARLY as high as the factory internals did (i upgraded the internals to the corksport interals kit). Now it doesn't go above about 800 psi!!!

please help! versatuner logs attached for a short drive, you can see the hpfp pressure does drop, and causes knock near the very end of this short drive once.
 

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@Awafrican can you point him to @Enki s quide for rebuilding the pump? I suck at search. Why did you put seafoam in? Clean with naptha and lube with redline.

I would take it back out and start over you didn't get something right
 
Don't think you took apart the proper part of the spill valve. Hint: there are no o-rings you need to replace in the spill valve for normal maintenance. I'm wondering if you didn't install the pump off-center, which could cause the pressure to be low. Also, the bucket is still in there, correct?
 
Enki said:
Don't think you took apart the proper part of the spill valve. Hint: there are no o-rings you need to replace in the spill valve for normal maintenance. I'm wondering if you didn't install the pump off-center, which could cause the pressure to be low. Also, the bucket is still in there, correct?
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How would the pump be installed off center? I will say it was a bit hard to install all the way, but i gently tightened all bolts by like a quarter turn at a time and it went in nice and easily. should i pull it and try to get it back in again? what would make it hard to get back in?

the spill valve was disassembled from the outside threaded body so i could change out the o-ring corksport includes with it's kit.

will go buy some redline injector cleaner and naptha and redo the job though.

the bucket is def still in there, i cleaned it off and put it back in the same way it came out (flat end towards cam).

but yeah, what would cause it to not go back in perfectly easily when reinstalling the pump to the cam extension housing?
 
If you aren't paying attention you can get it out of alignment tightening it down and it won't go all the way down. This not getting a full stroke from the pump
 
Easter Bunny said:
If you aren't paying attention you can get it out of alignment tightening it down and it won't go all the way down. This not getting a full stroke from the pump
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it's definitely seated all the way down if i look all around the seam between the pump body and the cam extension housing piece, definintely no gap at all anywhere. does that matter?
 
Easter Bunny said:
If you aren't paying attention you can get it out of alignment tightening it down and it won't go all the way down. This not getting a full stroke from the pump
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I've done this.

kayarepea said:
it's definitely seated all the way down if i look all around the seam between the pump body and the cam extension housing piece, definintely no gap at all anywhere. does that matter?
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You will want to check for a gap from as many angles as you can see.

Did you put the internals in dry or lube it? What fuel do you run (e mix?)? What oil?

Also, I don't think seafoam is a good lubricant, but redline is passable.
 
Maybe.

>_>

It's not like I already have the pictures I'd need just laying around in a folder.

*cough*
 
Enki said:
I've done this.


You will want to check for a gap from as many angles as you can see.

Did you put the internals in dry or lube it? What fuel do you run (e mix?)? What oil?

Also, I don't think seafoam is a good lubricant, but redline is passable.
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def checked it from as many angles as possible and it's closed up there's no gap

i lubed mostly using seafoam because it's ingredients show petroleum distillates. thought that would work ok. running Esso brand 94 octane, basically highest grade available from stations. vehicle is mostly stock though tbh. oil is mazda brand full synth as i just bought the car and haven't changed it yet. going to go to mobil 0w40 soon here.
 
just to clarify do i use the redline to lube the orings, or use vaseline or silicone like the link shows?
 
Make sure you run a dexos oil.

Use lighter fluid (naptha) to clean, and redline injector cleaner to individually lube before assembly, then fill the hpfp to the bottom thread with it after it's back on the car (spill valve removed).

This is what works, in my experience.
 
also the order of the parts that are in the lower section of the damper in the guide linked here are wrong. corksport guide shows the correct order. the metal ring goes right below the copper belleville washer, not below the damper plate piece.
 
Enki said:
You don't need to take the dampener section apart. Like, ever.
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i don't understand why corksport would make it out like you should take all this shit apart when it isn't necessary. thats so frustrating.'
 
*Shrug*

It's a sprung puck style pressure dampener. Even if it's not working, it's working.
 
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