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Trust me, damage like that goes deeper than you can see. A swap isn't hard. You have to swap the wiring harness, ECU, and engine. Then swap fenders, bumper, and hood.

My advice? Find a cheap 3 sedan chassis and swap it all over. You'll have everything to do a front end swap too.

What about trailered vehicles? They stopping those on the way to the track as well?

Damn that's wild. 10k for deleting the converter?

600 CAD to USD is about 430 dollars. I say we get a small fundraiser for you cause if 10 people chip in 30 dollars and you cover the rest (the 180 CAD you'd spend on the base map) that's the cost of a dyno tune.

In my experience O2 sensors don't need cleaning. I have never once had to clean one. Exhaust gasses are hot. They'll burn anything on the sensor off. The purpose of the heater circuit in the 02 sensor is just to warm it up faster so it can read air to fuel ratios quickly for emissions. I'm...

Oxygen sensors are never clean. They are always dirty. There is no point to cleaning them.

All you need to do is inspect the sensor itself when it's removed. See if it's wet. Check all the harnesses for water intrusion as well. I was getting water into my ambient temperature sensor in the bumper. It would throw random DTCs as that sensor shares a 5V reference with other sensors.

Are you tying an aftermarket gauge into the MAP sensor? MAP sensors shouldn't fail on a regular basis. Are they getting oil contaminated or wet somehow?

The benefit of the turbo block is the already present ports for the turbo drain and feed. Sleeves really aren't expensive. Yes they need to be pressed in and the block made to accommodate them but if your actual internals aren't bad then it would be an easier route to tear it down, get sleeves...

There's no fix in a bottle. Get a proper tune

That's a slick setup in the vent like that!

If you're keeping it as a street car keep in mind the fact that weight does reduce damage in an impact. If you truly wanted weight reduction you'd gut the doors, install plexiglass windows, weld in door reinforcement, strip sound deadening from under the carpet, strip the wire harness of unused...

It's hard to say without a proper tune for the car. The maps you're running are generic base maps without proper MAF calibrations. The MAF sensor is going to set the air flow calculation for what's coming into the engine. Try capping the purge solenoid off and see if that makes a difference...

Im not sure why the cost would be higher cause of cams. All that really comes down to is some idle/VVT adjustments. If it were me I'd wait for the dyno tune. Safer and more accurate. Plus you'll get actual power numbers.

You can do it from underneath. It isn't difficult.

Why not use a 3 wire variable resistor to dial in the gauge? Would be a cheap and easy install. Had to use one on my old Mitsubishi with an SAFC 2 to get the RPM to read correctly. Costs less than 5 dollars.

Use this sheet as it can help us help you https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/troubleshooting-sheet.14899/

All this talk you've had about getting back onto the track made me sign up for the next AutoX near me. It's been almost 5-6 years since my last event.

There can be what's called terminal fretting. Basically it's damn near invisible corrosion. A lot of times an air bag light can set due to that build up on the terminal pins. Disconnect the connection and it break the corrosion. Reconnect the connector and the DTC is gone. Could be what...