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Your lean is from the tune not the injectors. These cars are direct injected and they don't make bigger ones for it. The stock injectors are good too about 375 whp. Yes do the other mods before getting a tune.

You need a real tune, the cobb tunes are not great. If that AEM intake is not the same diameter at the MAF as OEM those tunes will also not work. You are going super lean at WOT. Do not drive it like this "at least don't floor it, you can still drive like a granny". Get Purple Drank or Freek...

Car is fixed, I ended up cutting the harness off the bad resistor and soldering it. That worked well. I also fixed my wobble / shake on acceleration. It was the passenger axle. It must have something internally wrong causing it to get out of center when TQ is applied. Here is a video of the...

Yeah I don't think it is necessary for what I am doing. I will make a nicer bypass like I had before with the actual pins, maybe I can find what plug it is and just get one. I could cut the bad resistor up too and use that plug.

Smol Update: Brakes are working great, car decided to do a start and idle and NO MORE FUEL PRESSURE, then ded. I had my cousin give me a ride home as it was already dark out and figured I would look at it the next day. I put out the call and @andale927 said to check the fuel pump resistor on...

Like you get it into gear but then it is slow to grab? Or it is just hard to get into gear?

It's possible the AWD system is throwing a code that the AP can't read? If that is doing something wonky it could put the car into some sort of limp mode. Do you know anyone with a better scan tool?

Something like this would help, it probably didn't go to far and is sitting at the bottom.

I have noticed now that it is cold out the car does not want to idle at cold start "30f and lower" unless I manually hold it at 2k rpm for about 10 seconds. I will be switching back to stock values for he cold months and see if that fixes it.

I have re-used CS seals about 4 times without issue. You will want your mafcal touched up if you had a bad injector as it can only compensate so much. I would let you tuner know this and see what they can do for you. Glad you are making some progress.

I fixed two I saw were bad , are there still more? Are you sure you are looking at the device manager to see what Com Port the USB to Serial is creating?

Bro, that dipstick end is broken.

I have a feeling you could just get an ORING from a variety pack. A Viton ring kit would hopefully have what you need. That kit is at harbor freight too.

Brake fluid....

This is the firewall side but it is more or less the same on the slave cylinder side. That pink is an ORING. I cut my line and turned it into an 3an so I could run a stainless line to the slave. It's all in my build thread...

I would recommend you watch a few videos like this so you don't fry something.

You should be able to do it like this, just don't get too crazy and jab it in there super far, If you have a paper clip or something you could do that too. You can also get a multimeter with sharper needle like probes that can go through a wire jacket without messing it up.

Update: Rear suspension is all done, all parts fit without much issues. Took some time to get it all together but wasn't "hard". Bushing had to be pressed in and out for the knuckle to the body. Position is important too so you need to mark the old one first. I bought new brake shields...