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Was starting to get a little blow out. Could have re gapped the plugs, but that always sketches me out. Replaced em just because. Now just need to get a new AP and retune this thing.

Changed the plugs today at roughly 199,500 miles. These plugs have roughly 19k on em. Brisk one step colder. They look just about as I'd expect as the car runs low 11 afr in boost on the current 93 octane map. Fresh set of the same plugs went in

Key on engine off, should read almost 0psi. If you're at -12, then the info you gave PD regarding your map sensor is incorrect and he scaled it accordingly or the map sensor itself is bad

Your vacuum at idle is quite low. Either you have a leak somewhere (like a catch can drain in the open position or a bov/bpv leaking at idle) or you're down on compression significantly. Vacuum at idle is typically around -10psi at sea level om a healthy motor with no boost/vacuum leaks. So...

Lemme know if you find it. IIRC, the 2013 had its own version of ATR. But I can't remember 100% I know for gen 1, 07-08 had its own version and 08.5-09 had its own. And for the pu 2010 had its own version and 2011-12 (maybe 13 too) were lumped together

Is the copy of atr for a 2013?

This thing is fucking slow lol. And boo on rob for lowering the stock Rev limit from 6750 to 6500. Who does that!? Really wish I could get a copy of ATR for this thing so I could re-tune it myself

Oh nice. Didn't know that was possible. I don't mind it though.

Hey all. Been a while. Not much to report. Mileage is at 199,xxx and still running strong. The slave cylinder blew in April, which was expected as the car has a newer style act 6 puck in it. I replaced the slave and line for now and all is well. However, I will be installing a piece that...

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tbd-s005?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAiA9NGfBhBvEiwAq5vSy4YsL9HjlhrHgjlbkqF2bed8DqENlSWXr_tS7OPwiVhmbYJv8rncxhoCPAQQAvD_BwE That's the one I use

If you think the stock gearing in your car is too long you won't want to even bother with the diesel gears. 3rd gear at 7krpm goes to 119mph and 4th would do 160+. Youd be crusing around at 40mph In the city In 2nd gear. And 80mph on the freeway in 5th around 2000rpm This is a 3rd gear pull...

Should be doable. A lot of folks use the gen 2 gears with the gen1/ms6 final drive for longer ratios so they can ride out 4th gear to 150mph at 8krpm on a 26" tire at the drag strip

Do you have a way to look at live data? Look at the live value for maf voltage with the car running. Local buddy of mine just had a brand new OEM maf from edge fail. Was tossing the p0101 code. Maf voltage at idle was reading 4.99V. Which is max voltage. Edge is taking care of the RMA process...

Yeah. That's way too low to be shifting. The next gear you're probably below 1500rpm and severely lugging the motor. Doesn't even save you any gas really driving that way either. I typically shift around 3500rpm normal driving and it's pretty smooth

That was Will Dawson's (PD Tuning) newer ms6 build in Corksports picture with the fpr with the tmic. He had the PI Mocked up but not utilized as he was trying to push a k04 to the max before upgrading the turbo. He dropped a valve a couple years ago and the car has sat since. But it may work

Not really. It's more of a factor of how short the gearing is in 1st gear. Pretty typical when driving in stop and go traffic. My girlfriends 2020 civic si is even worse

My tr1235 core was dented In almost the same spot. Wasn't an issue at all

Check the engine bay fuse box. Look for the ENG BAR fuse. If it's blown, you'll get a crank no start.

Learn from me. Don't use a machine shop that doesn't specialize in mazdaspeed.

Sp63