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IMO, just go out and run it in whatever class you fall into. If that's SM or SP, so be it. When first starting out, classing doesn't matter. If you like it and get into it, start looking at class rules. Until then, just have fun.

I think there's a few on my channel: scca.com to find your region, but you may find that you have some local non-SCCA clubs that run events, as well. Your region should have their own website with their schedule. What area are you in? Sent from my SM-F916U using Tapatalk

In 2018, I was 4th in class. In 2019, I was 2nd. 2020 Nats was canceled, so we'll try it again this year. I'll post the winter projects soon... Sent from my SM-F916U using Tapatalk

No Sent from my SM-F916U using Tapatalk

The numbers you have here are ultimate tensile strength (UTS). Don't confuse that with young's modulus (aka modulus of elasticity), which is the "spring rate" of a material. All carbon steels (which is every bolt type you've listed) have the same spring modulus when in the elastic range...

It's not TTY, it's TTA. Sent from my SM-F916U using Tapatalk

Lube....yeah I tested that too. In the attached pic, "UT" stands for "Ultra Torque", ARP's own brand of thread lube. The oem spec is torque to 75lb-ft, then 90°, so it really only applies to that initial 75lbft. It does make the 90° portion easier on your back, but it doesn't change how much...

Crank bolt. Yes, ARP's spec is shit. It will not provide sufficient clamping force. Use a new bolt, use new crank gears, use new friction washers, torque to OEM spec. Sent from my SM-F916U using Tapatalk

Not true. The ARP bolt will stretch just as far as the OEM bolt, but the ARP might stay in its elastic range (I never tested one to know). The OEM bolt only yields .001-.002", which is just barely getting into plastic deformation (~.15% stretch). Said another way, they'll have nearly...

Do it however you feel comfortable measuring the rotation. I like marking it with a paint pen.

That place no longer exists. Original data set is attached. My torque wrench only went to 250lb-ft, so I projected beyond that. You would believe it if you've ever tightened one to OEM spec. They're goddamn tight. Sent from my SM-F916U using Tapatalk

DO NOT torque it to 140lb-ft. Use the factory spec, it's closer to 350lb-ft. I did that testing over 9 years ago LOL.

Before I started working a fuckillion back to back days at work, we did get the tire rack and fold down bed frame built and installed. The tire rack is height adjustable via etrack, and can hold 4 335's. I really despise having tire racks on the sides of the trailer, so we opted to put it at...

I have a 3/4" drive socket set that I use.

Friend of a friend, who bought them used to begin with. Scales are very hard to come by second hand...

I just have a stand up hydraulic press from HF.

Got the lighting all wrapped up! I need to finish putting the upper trim back on, then it will be time to hang etrack, build shelves, and build a movable bed frame. I still have a couple electronics goodies to install, but I'm taking a break to install 3 phase in the garage for the newest...

I would start by getting corner weights for the car at race weight (with driver in it, as much fuel as you would run with). From there, you can calculate spring rates based on sprung mass frequency (I'll break out my spreadsheet since it was lost to the public when MSF went down). Wheel/tire -...

I've been doing a bunch of wiring work in the trailer getting it set up for lights and whatnot. This is a quick test of the lights we're using and the 3 way dimmer switches. Currently debating how/where to put the batteries. I think the current front runner is an in-floor box to keep them...

Peak lateral grip will be found somewhere north of -2.5° camber. You'll have to do some testing to optimize it front and rear.