Search results

Keep in mind that we actually have an option to use ARP flywheel bolts over the OEM ones for basically the same price as well. ARP 251-2802 Flywheel Bolt Kit for Ford 1.8/2.0L Duratech Edit: Looks like someone just had an issue recently with socket fitment for the bolt heads so that could be...

Have you made sure your MAF sensor is working properly? When mine was going down the crappers, I was getting very lean AFRs during WOT since it wasn't able to measure all the air that was going through my intake. I could adjust my MAF can but it would only make slight adjustments in my AFR with...

Was there ever any word on whether the IWG was designed better so boost creep wasn't such a problem? I might be interested in one at some point since I'll only be able to deal with an open dump EWG for so long.

Oh, you're the guy that tags me on the Facebook new/used parts page lol. You ended up going with that cast $100 top mount manifold right?

Motor mounts, tires and your tune are the biggest factors. Even if you have high torque it can still be manageable with the right tune.

It does not say that 4032 is stronger. It says that it's more brittle due the higher silica content and doesn't lend itself to high cylinder pressure applications.

I have the JBR Trilogy 88/80/80 (I think) with a BSD and a lightweight flywheel and the noise/vibes aren't actually all that bad. Even my girlfriend rides in my car all the time without commenting on anything.

My AFRs jump when coming to a stop and all I have is a ported stock manifold. As far as I'm aware it's normal.

IIRC the only rods (without extra machining) that will work with stock pistons are Carrillo rods which are over $800. Might as well get 4032 pistons and aftermarket rods once you reach that price point.

Nevermind. I'm an idiot. Disregard this post.

I've seen some people say that the clutch can be too soft. I'm not sure if that's a big deal to you, but I wouldn't be a fan of it personally.

I would just go for overbuilding it slightly just for peace of mind and that I have the mindset of doing things right the first time. I've heard varying opinions on the LUK/Fidanzda combo as well.

Once I'm done/in the process of tuning I'll throw it in. I'm going to be breaking in the motor so won't have any data for a bit. That's the reason why I got the HTA3576 because it was meant to be on a stock block w/ meth. I assumed I could be at around 450whp but still keep wtq at a reasonable...

I wish I'd be able to participate. I have a HTA3576 but I have a higher CR as well so it'd be too apples to oranges.

I feel like piston life will vary greatly on usage anyway. If you're flogging on it constantly I could see them having a short lifespan but if you're just going WOT once or twice a day and a few mid boost pulls then you'll be able to get a long life out of them.

53k in a year? That's crazy.

That belongs to Alex from this forum. The ZZB Diairies in the Build forum. He has single runners and a GT3582. Yeah, it's going to take a bit to get going.

Haven't been to one yet but I'll definitely try getting out to it next year.

It'd be nice if they could put that turbine wheel on the Airwerks turbos. You could get the basically the same performance but you wouldn't have the additional costs of ball bearing and their IWG system. I feel like you wouldn't even notice the difference between ball bearing and journal when it...

The EM and hotside are both cast which is generally a mess to weld with which is why I wasn't really considering it. It's not very desirable but I guess with that cheap of a manifold it could be worth a shot lol.