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So the PCV valve is one-way only. Read this (Crankcase, Under Pressure – Damond Motorsports) and this (Bye-Bye Blow-By – Damond Motorsports) to better understand operation. Your most cost-effective setup right now if you are under budget is to keep your stock PCV plate, get a new PCV valve...

You can run to a vented catch can, remember the PCV valve exists precisely to vent that crankcase pressure during operation, so when it cracks at a certain pressure, that is by design. It isn't a leak per se, it's an engineered air escape that normally runs to the Intake Manifold, which you can...

You could go Radium, but you can also just go with tried-and-true Damond, who puts a lot of effort into the platform, and has some really amazing guides on their website for routing. Damond is also easily reachable by phone, directly to Matt Damond himself most times for any questions you may...

You should ask the shop why you didn't get what you asked for, even if it might work. I assume you had a justification for your ask, don't toss it just because the shop didn't listen.

Yep, saw it on facebook, the shell is for sale with all suspension parts and spares. Can't find it now because Facebook search is garbage.

Phate is up for sale, so I guess it gets the best of us.

You probably noticed the inside gasket around the plugs there, but just in case.

VC Gasket perhaps, or torn Coil pack boot.

if you can read your actual HPFP on the AP, while your car is idling you can make a very small adjustment on that ring and watch the pressure go up or down, get it to the ideal (~400) at idle and it should be dialed in.

How tight are you screwing on the top portion of the HPFP housing with the sensor plug / locking ring? I found that too tight or too loose will have a negative effect on fuel pressure across the range, has to be just right.

If you can get under the car, its easier to give that hose a tug directly on both ends. Mine popped off at an autocross event and baffled me for a week because I was too lazy to put in the manual labor of crawling underneath with a flashlight. With an LTFT that big, it should be pretty obvious...

Check your PCV hose connections. Because the PCV hose is a one-way valve, you may not be able to find it with that smoke test depending on where the leak is. Also link where you got those injectors from, if they're garbage injectors you could be having issues there.

So here are the pictures after painting / trimming with rubber. The rubber itself is actually pretty good, but I found that in some areas it wanted to peel back, so I JB Welded it just like I do for everything else. Overall it fits great, happy with it. I have a buddy who can fab up some...

Women seem to be consistently unimpressed by these speeds in my experience.

Ask and ye shall receive. Won't be able to put them on until my trim comes in, but they match the template almost exactly, with a little extra room trimmed off the edges for trim width.

Actually got them made yesterday, took about 10 minutes per piece, but I forgot them at my Dad's shop, so I'll need to go grab them later this week.

Would be cool to build an undertray, I might actually give that a shot... Also If I don't build these cool side things how am I going to simp for scene points?

I have the frontal part that goes directly below the IC and radiator attached to the bumper, the tray I have is loosy goosey at best. I'd imagine the full undertray would probably help, but I figure for $0 in free scrap metal, I can evaluate if its worth getting a full metal or just OEM...

By pipe insulation you mean a trim to prevent having the sharp edges cut into the surround materials (silicone coupler)? Definitely going to be putting a rubber trim insulation on the edges like that other guy did, otherwise I'd be in boost leak city in about a week.